#30 Felt vs GAF Deck Armor

#30 felt is costing me $20 per square. If I ask my roofer to use Deck Armor, how much more per square can I expect to pay?

$40 for a roll of #30… :shock: ssheeiit

I was quoted #30 felt 40 sq x $20

are you saying this is too high?

What about 30 yr dimensional shingles GAF $180 a sq to install?

I read wrong…my apoligies

That includes the labor. With tax I pay $14 per square for 30# and add ten to install.

Ask your roofer, we can’t tell you what he’d charge for deck armor.

$180 is too cheap :evil:

[quote=“selfemployedslave”]That includes the labor. With tax I pay $14 per square for 30# and add ten to install.

Ask your roofer, we can’t tell you what he’d charge for deck armor.

$180 is too cheap :evil:[/quote]

Too cheap as in my roofer is giving me a good deal or too cheap as in I need to be concerned?

I know price will depend on the roofer, but I was just wondering if its a reasonable upgrade or if it can be a pricey upgrade (like double my quote)

Don’t use 30lb., IMO it is better to use Gaf/Elk Shingle Mate for the same cost…
Is that 180.00 off and on or just on? Location?

after using another sin underlayment i am starting to have doughts. i never realized how important the stiffness of 30lb is. theese new underlayment are
not stiff and are harder to seal at penatrations and walls.

gweedo.

Gweedo, I always use I&W at those points, I don’t like 30lb for the fact of rippling ,and it takes hours for it to flatten out…,and Shingle Mate is sooo close in cost to 30lb.,it only makes sense…

yeah jwoolf,
im ok with any underlayment bein used cause im gonna
put thousands of roofing nails in it. i was just sayin how the stiffness , of 30 lb, comes in handy
when flashing.

gweedo.

Although I like working with Shinglemate better mainly because of the points jwoolf said, Im with gweedo about how it is easy to work with good ol 30# when flashing. Then again, the actual shingles and flasing are what keeps the water out so the underlayment is of no difference to me.

I actually had a guy this past week who asked if he can save money by not using any felt. Thats a real good idea in an area where the heat index was 100 last week and within 3 or 4 months it can be below 0.

Gweedo, I & W is used at any flashing, chimney,valley or any place like a penatration. Nails or not it is your last line of defense if a severe storm comes. When using the Ice and water i have a 90 degree or close to flashings that has a nail at the end of the flashin at the top. I know you have a very different way of roofing but these are the correct way of roofing according to the manufactuers.

SHingle mate is a very good felt, hard to cut though. do you need it, thats totally up to you. will it protect better than 30 pound that is unproven. but if you are going for a warrany thru gaf then its a must along with their ice and water.

WHen i was roofing many years ago i always did things per the instructions. and wouldnt you know it i never used tar. i just knew how to properly install. and i relaced everything on the roof even counter flashing and step flashing, now with the step flashing if i couldnt get it out of a wall i reused that piece only.

Hate me if you want but i just do things per the way they want it installed so if something fails, and never had a call back when i was swinging a hammer i can get the roof taken care of quickly and if they bought the warranty and they sent out an inspector i never had a problem.

[quote=“jwoolfsroofing”]Don’t use 30lb., IMO it is better to use Gaf/Elk Shingle Mate for the same cost…
Is that 180.00 off and on or just on? Location?[/quote]

$40 off and $180 on.

[quote=“dadcjd”]

[quote=“jwoolfsroofing”]Don’t use 30lb., IMO it is better to use Gaf/Elk Shingle Mate for the same cost…
Is that 180.00 off and on or just on? Location?[/quote]

$40 off and $180 on.[/quote]

If it was within 1/2 hour from my house and walkable I would do it for that.

[quote=“gtp1003”]Gweedo, I & W is used at any flashing, chimney,valley or any place like a penatration. Nails or not it is your last line of defense if a severe storm comes. When using the Ice and water i have a 90 degree or close to flashings that has a nail at the end of the flashin at the top. I know you have a very different way of roofing but these are the correct way of roofing according to the manufactuers.

SHingle mate is a very good felt, hard to cut though. do you need it, thats totally up to you. will it protect better than 30 pound that is unproven. but if you are going for a warrany thru gaf then its a must along with their ice and water.

WHen i was roofing many years ago i always did things per the instructions. and wouldnt you know it i never used tar. i just knew how to properly install. and i relaced everything on the roof even counter flashing and step flashing, now with the step flashing if i couldnt get it out of a wall i reused that piece only.

Hate me if you want but i just do things per the way they want it installed so if something fails, and never had a call back when i was swinging a hammer i can get the roof taken care of quickly and if they bought the warranty and they sent out an inspector i never had a problem.[/quote]

I have said these exact words-the Gweedo part,lol,and was crusified by posters about never having a call back.
I believe that if you install to the letter of the manufacturers instructions, you can’t go wrong,and if there is a problem,“you” are not to blame…

J what the hell do know only been doing it right for 15 years, retired for a 2 years. sales is what i did for 8 or so years. basically it been a while since i used a hammer on a roof. I just do it the way its supposed to be done. I dont know how others do it i just read instructions many years ago learned by a journyman and well i have been offered jobs all over the coutry from foreman to sales manager. maybe im stupid for not taking those jobs. either way i do it right and roofs i put on 10 years ago look as good as the day i put it on and holy molly they dont leak hand the same phone number ever since. welldo whatever i dont know jack.

Ok I think the underlayment argument is what is starting here. I’m with Gweedo and Bam. People roofed without Ice and water shield for a long time. Was there some rotten sheathing at the eaves, maybe a bit. But how much is it going to cost homeowners to replace every inch of plywood covered in that stuff years from now cause shingles are embedded in it? Lefty says it all the time and in my opinion he is right. Bottom line is this-if water is getting under shingles or flashing you will have a problem. Ice and water will not save you, atleast not long term. Nails will rust out and roof will leak.

Axiom had a post about this a while back, next to dormers where they didn’t weave the first course. Grace didn’t save them, you replaced 9 sheets I think it was?

I understand about following manufacturers reccomendations to cover your ass. If this is why you are insisting on using synthetic felts and water and ice all over the place then I understand. If you think that water and ice is what has made you have no call backs for 20 yrs., then I think you’re just plain wrong. You are shingling and flashing correctly and that is why you’ve had no call backs (renailing helps too).

Normally I cover what I roof same day. If I cannot, I will use synthetic cause it won’t wrinkle. It is also the best in my opinion for long term dry ins. The 52" 10 square rolls go down so fast they almost make up the difference in labor.

And by the way, GTP and Jwoold, excellent track records. I hope I can boast the same someday, but my roofs are not that old yet.

[quote=“shangle nailer”]Ok I think the underlayment argument is what is starting here. I’m with Gweedo and Bam. People roofed without Ice and water shield for a long time. Was there some rotten sheathing at the eaves, maybe a bit. But how much is it going to cost homeowners to replace every inch of plywood covered in that stuff years from now cause shingles are embedded in it? Lefty says it all the time and in my opinion he is right. Bottom line is this-if water is getting under shingles or flashing you will have a problem. Ice and water will not save you, atleast not long term. Nails will rust out and roof will leak.

Axiom had a post about this a while back, next to dormers where they didn’t weave the first course. Grace didn’t save them, you replaced 9 sheets I think it was?

I understand about following manufacturers reccomendations to cover your ass. If this is why you are insisting on using synthetic felts and water and ice all over the place then I understand. If you think that water and ice is what has made you have no call backs for 20 yrs., then I think you’re just plain wrong. You are shingling and flashing correctly and that is why you’ve had no call backs (renailing helps too).

Normally I cover what I roof same day. If I cannot, I will use synthetic cause it won’t wrinkle. It is also the best in my opinion for long term dry ins. The 52" 10 square rolls go down so fast they almost make up the difference in labor.[/quote]

Are you saying that the Felt comes up nice and easy while the deck armor esentially becomes apart of the decking and can’t be removed?

I am in an area with frequent hail so I guess going with a quality product today may mean more expense replacing after a future hail storm?

synthetic deck armor no, water and ice shield yes.

If you have frequent hail and will likely be replacing your roof again (or insurance will) I would use ice and water only what is required by code.