A couple of questions

Hi all. Just got back from doing a deck job in the outer banks this week. Nice little mini vacation. I have a couple questions.
At the beach, there was not one ridge vent. All the homes are littered with static box vents and occasionally a ridge vent too. Any reason for this? Do ridge vents not hold up well in hurricane conditions?

Also, I’m bidding on re-roofing and building a porch on this cabin. I’m wondering if anyone can tell by these interior pictures what I could expect for a deck on this roof. With this type of vaulted ceiling is that the deck I’m looking at underneath? I haven’t been there to look at it so I don’t know if maybe the decking is 2x so nails won’t poke through inside. He said its 2 layers.
The job is far away and I probably wouldn’t be able to get there to look at it in person. Anyone done that before? Any advice on what to include in the contract?



I meant an occasional power vent sorry

I’ve been wondering where have you been…

shang, ive never been there. but i imagine its the same reason we do it up here on the coast. we get alot of nor easters we callem. hard horizontal wind driven rains that get into the ridgevent & attic (ceilings) & the second reason is caps just blow off em way to easy in them atlantic ocean winds. so we use box vents (static vents)

I’m thinking that the can in that picture might be a
ceiling fan vent. As to what detail that structure
might present…Im guessing…1x8 or 2x8 T&G over the purlins, with 2x4 spacers in between styrofoam over felt paper, with plywood and shingles. On jobs like that up here, specs are usually…strip existing shingles, plywood and rigid insulation…add 4- 6 inch
of 4ftx 10 ft AC foam nail base directly over existing
decking. GAF has determined that ventilation is not required under shingles installed over solid rigid insulation. As there is no attic, I see no need for ventilation there, if it is tight. If there’s an air space above the rigid and under the sheathing, then soffit vents and ridge vents are your only option. Adding this porch, especially if un -insulated farmer’s porch types, causes an issue of tying in the roof rafters on the existing wall, without restricting the air flow thru the existing soffit vent, and working it into the interior design. If you have the luxury of dropping the roof rafters below the existing soffit, then no problem, but once you get into the rafter tie-ins, it gets
weird, design-wise. I usually design a frieze board over a piece of Cora-vent to finish the wall, rafter detail, allowing air flow up thru the attic without
having to keep the existing fascia/ soffit in the design.

Last one that I did like that was manufactored in Rocky Mount in 1983. Its likely that this was too, as they are The log cabin company for this area.

The roof deck was 2 by covered with 3" ISO under 1/2" OSB.

ya outlaw ive seen that too. vented r board, that way they can screw into the pearlings & rafters without penetrating the exposed ceiling & the roof system can still vent.

thank you outlaw, that is most helpful.

I am guessing there is no harm in leaving the insulation unless there is significant water damage? He did say the place has a couple leaks.

outlaws the man!

Please don’t my word for it.

Look for yourself.

Or at least word your proposal to reflect the possibilties.