Buckled drip edge

It looked good until the sun warmed things up.

The drip is buckling in exactly the center of each length when it warms up, then relaxes in the evening. This is happening on the west side of the garage and the house. Curiously, it does not seem to be an issue on the south eave. The section adjacent to the sidwall is the worst; I checked… even at times of maximum distortion, there remains a gap between the drip and the sidewall. The section on the other end of the eave adjacent to the hip corner remains straight.

I’m assuming that I will need to pull up a few courses of shingles and re-do the drip unless someone knows of an easier remedy.

Q: Did this happen because the aluminum drip is too light? (The stuff that I replaced was aluminum but was of a heavier gauge and had a wider nailing flange). Did I nail it incorrectly? (I nailed at 12" OC as far from the drip line as I could while still catching some metal on the nailing flange).

Q: If I have to pull it up, will I be able to lift the I/W from the drip without damage? It’s been on a few weeks.

Regards… Mike

Aluminum drip edge is thinner than it used to be, this is a common occurrence nowadays with aluminum t-drip.

Axiom, thanks for commenting.

Is this purely an aesthetic issue? Is it squirming because the flange is held down but the face is free to move? If that is the case, would it be permissible to make a relief cut on the face, then apply a color-matched flexible sealant?


Yes it’s an aesthetic issue, there would be no harm in a relief cut as you suggested.

OK, thanks! I’ll give it a try. Mike

If you “SNIP” it, you will make it worse because of the scissor cut. Use a zip or skill say (CAREFULLY) and the width of the blade or zip will give you enough width to expand and contract daily with the house, You probably nail it to the deck by “PULLING” it back flush against the fascia, which is to tight, Drip should “LAY” nicely and evenly before you nail.

Roofer2, thanks for the tip. I would have nipped it with a sheet metal snip. I think my Dremel with metal cutting blade will work.

You are correct… I did in fact nail it like you describe. Not only that, but I probably didn’t have the flange as flat on the deck as I thought I did, and now the weight of the shingles press the drip even tighter to the fascia. Plus I did not allow for the thickness of the fascia trim which I tucked under the drip afterwards.

I am the poster boy of poor craftsmanship!


Shall I make this cut right where it buckled or on an adjacent flat area?