Can I install a Whirlybird turbine in a standing seam roof?

Hi,

Hope someone can advise me if there is a recognized method for installing a Whirlybird turbine roof vent into an existing (unvented) standing seam metal roof. The existing roof is installed on T1-11 ply over exposed rafters (a common Caribbean roofing practise). The desire is to install one turbine vent to act as an exhaust for the hot air that builds up at the top of the exposed rafters roof space (the ceiling). At present there is no ventilation, so the ceiling fans just blow the hot air from under the ceiling down into the lower room spaces :roll: . Is there a method to install a fixture like the turbine vent, that won’t interfere with the natural expansion and contraction of the metal roof?

Many thanks in advance for any suggestions.

You can but I wouldnt recommend it. Whirley Birds do leak during side ways rain & wind driven rain. Buy Globe Vents, they dont leak.

Thanks. I hadn’t heard of them. Any installation advice, given my roofing material?

Cut your hole, create a nice gasket on the bottom of the vent flange, & screw down the flange all around real good. If its a copper roof, get a copper vent & solder it down. Also look at box vents & static vents. Im pretty sure you can google them.

Thanks. Sounds doable. The roof material is 26 gauge GALVALUME coated sheet steel. Will check out the other vents online.

is this a hip roof or gable roof?
if its a gable roof then you could install a power ventilator at the gable end and not disturb your roof at all.

RoofLover, I think he said he is located in the Carribean so the gable ends would probably be concrete or stucco. I think he just wants to get so air circulating.

Hip roof

Faux gable is in wrong place

See photo. Caption says: “Vent hole to be cut here. Distance between standing seams 17.5 inches”.

http://www.roofing.com/forum/gallery/image.php?album_id=395&image_id=1434

Will it be tilted for slope to function properly? Curb or?

Will base integrate into 2 panels?

Doubt it. Power vent flanges are 20" and fit perfectly between ribs 16-1/2" oc.
Rickie means doing it like this.

[attachment=2]Copper roof and Copper Power Vent.JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=1]Copper roof and Copper Power Vent (2).JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=0]Copper roof and Copper Power Vent (3).JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=1]Copper roof and Copper Power Vent (4).JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=0]Lotta tools.JPG[/attachment]

Ricky asks and wonders if those are your picks? Those vents need to be level to function properly. Seal them any way you wish. No function, no use.

My pix. Normal power vent install.

Did I piss tinner off?

Naw. What gave you that idea?

Your comment, Rickey

I thought you asked me a question. I just answered normally, for me at least. I don’t like typing and sometimes seem ‘short’ in my replies. And I forget to use smileys. :smiley:

@ rickengie Yes, will make sure to adjust it so it’s level.

@ tinerr666 If it turns out as neat as the copper roof pix I’ll be happy! I’ll post a photo if (when) it gets done, but it won’t be for a month or two I’m afraid.

I reckon the base plate/flange should sit between the two seams, but it might be that if there’s enough base plate to bend over the seam, it could then be bolted through in four corners. A solar water heater on the roof was installed in this way, by bolting the frame to the seams, rather than drilling into the roof covering itself.

Wow Tinna666! Red rosin paper! Dont see that much anymore except to line elevators & carpets for protection where the roofers have to access the roof thru the building.