Can you install drip edge after the shingles installed?

Hello: Had a roof done in Wisconsin due to hail damage. Signed over all funds to contractor, yes I know … dumb. Anyhow, he did the roof, there was money for drip edge and flashing … he didn’t replace any. I asked “why not” and he said that the stuff delivered was the wrong stuff , we have siders edge? on there now. He said he is going after the insurance company for more money to have it installed as it is more labor intensive. The rest of the work was shoddy and I would think that putting this stuff on after the fact is not the greatest idea when the workers quality of work is poor. Can some of you give me some feedback? I would think anything is possible but how can it be done properly now? or how can one assure it is done properly? 3 story house too… thanks

Yeah it is possible but it takes a skilled installer to do it after the fact. You may be better off just asking for a discount on the job to be perfectly honest.

old drip edge not replaced

Here are two pics of the finished product. If the contractor has drip edge on site, does it make sense to not install it? He said it wouldn’t work because we have siders edge on there? Why would drip edge not work?

So Island Roofer are you saying that drip edge is difficult after the fact or both drip and siders?

I appreciate your feedback. thanks

I actually am having a hard time telling exactly how that “siders edge” (I am actually not familiar with that term) is fastened. If it could easily be removed than it should have because yes it would have caused a standard drip edge to stick out. Is it just nailed to the fascia?

I meant it is difficult to install drip edge a(correctly is the key word) after a roof is completed. It can be done but there are not a lot of people who I would trust to do it.

p.s. you really shouldn’t be able to lift your shingles so easily.

After the contractor mentioned siders edge I had to look it up myself. Online company that manufactures implies that it is for giving your drip edge a facelift if you don’t want to replace the whole drip edge, it slides over. The roof part of it is only an inch deep. It is face nailed to the fascia.

Had to Google siders edge to, it looks like it is designed to go over drip edge, not a stand alone product. To install a true drip edge would require a good bit of work by a highly skilled roofer and still could damage some shingles depending how good they sealed.

If you are just looking for a face lift you could just leave the old riders edge in place and rivit a new piece on top of the old.

I would be more concerned with how high you can lift that corner rake shingle. I would check to make sure they didn’t nail the shingles high. There shouldn’t be and felt under the ice shield. I am little surprised you can lift it up so easily after it has been walked on and roof is installed, normally drip edge holds it down.

If I ran into that, I would just bend a custom profile drip edge to work with it. Should be no big deal.
+1 to your roof lifting too easily. Particularely in the corner.

When removing the roof they could have removed the existing siders edge and replaced it with the drip edge, this would not have been very difficult, standard even.

Now that the roof is applied it is much more difficult, invasive, & time consuming to install the drip edge, being 3 stories only makes it much worse.

The way your sheeting is on top of the sub-facia requires a drip edge to cover it so that the edge of the sheeting doesn’t wick moisture into it.

This is what we expected to be done exactly. Contractor is now saying he can apply the drip edge but after hearing your comments on this site … I think not. It would have been too easy to do the job right, right off the bat. I noticed on the W the shingles lifted about 5 inches either side … is that normal? here is a pic, nice cut huh!

the left side where shingle is humped the flashing is a 1/4 off the roof deck, was never secured.

I’m a Roofing Contractor from Spring, Tx I see so many things wrong with the workmanship in pictures you sent in.

  1. Staples on the starter?
  2. It appears the Ice and water barrier is on top of the starter that’s why you are able to lift shingle edge peel and stick should be to the deck it won’t stick to the starter.
  3. The sider (not sure what that is never seen it in Texas) but it’s raised from the deck and will create ponding on the first course at roof drip edge.
  4. Raised decking at the eaves/drip edge area deck is the reason the roofer neglected to use a drip edge, he would need to use at least a 2"x2" drip edge flashing and remove or raise the sider (?) flashing.
  5. If it was my house I would start over, contact his GL Insurance company and use another roofing company.
    There is too much that’s easily visible, I’d wonder what else they failed to do that you can’t lift from the eaves or rake areas of the roof?

SLM Residential Roofing Inc.
Spring, TX 77379

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