Can you see the mistake?

Sure, it’s a slate roof, but imagine it’s a 3-tab. It would still be the same mistake.
Can you see it?

[attachment=0]Jackleg Chimney (2).jpg[/attachment]

butt ends meet were metal is…

I took an Ambien and it is causing my brain not to work.Believe me I feel dumber than a sack of hammer handles But I think it would be the flies on the counter pan they don’t extend far enough away from the chimney.

No Tinner’s Wing???

I call them flies,wings etc.I like to extend my pan past a seam or bond line too.

The cut of pan flashing.

Kage and RM nailed it right off. So did Rickie, looks like. Pault was also on the right track.
That pan should have been 5-8" wider on each side and the tinner’s wings should have been out 3-4" with another 3-4" out past that. I have no idea what they thought they were saving, not why they might have been trying to make it look pretty with that cut. It was 44’ up.

Locking and soldering your corners > “tinner’s wings”

Like this one? We just them trash traps, or just soldered corners. As for soldering CF, it’s great for making money, but serves no other purpose.

[attachment=2]Covered Chimney Corner (2).jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=1]Covered Chimney Corner (4).jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=0]Covered Chimney Corner (5).jpg[/attachment]

Done those a time or two, but you have to know what to do with all that water that’s being directed under the slate or shingles. Not really cost effective either. I’ll stick with true tinner’s wings.

thats all we do is tinner wings,(skylites and chimneys) dont even need gum when done right… 8)

Ditto, :smiley:

It’s just a matter of semantics. Tar was talking about wrapped corners. The kind that look like a Velux back pan, I’m sure, with the metal being exposed all the way around the top and about 3-4" down from the corner. ( I put gutter sealer on both top and underside of those hemmed joints, just in case. It wouldn’t take more than a few drops of frozen water to split one.)
I believe it was Dennis that posted pix of one he did like that. I couldn’t find any pix of ones I did anywhere. It’s been awhile, since before digital pix that I did one.

In this campaign have many mistake.Slate not set for longtime work. Fast wind broke these slot. I hope you Metal that is better than it. I install metal roof system before 10 years no leakage no damage.

Jamfazal- Your posts would be much more entertaining if you typed them out in a Jar-Jar Binks type format…

I’ve always locked all my copper seams, period. I’ve always pre-tinned my seams. It’s not a matter of “semantics”, it’s a totally different system. Tinner’s Wings, although great for directing normal water flow, leave an unsealed opening on the down slope side that can be subseptible to storm water or ice infiltration. Locking and soldering your seams creates a closed unit; your only “opening” with this type of system is between your base and counter flashing, which should be a 4" overlap, minimum. This is Soldering 101 stuff to me and didn’t think it merited a detailed explanation. Trash doesn’t get trapped because of the way you run your corners, it gets trapped if you’re an idiot and dont cut the slate back far enough from the chimney wall to leave some room for water flow… As far as soldering chimney flashings being a waste of time? We will have to agree to disagree on that one.

Here’s a video I found that has an example of a locked and soldered vertical seam for anyone that still has confusion about what I’m talking about.

Interesting technique there. My iron almost never touches the lower panel, and the solder is pressed against the hot copper and drawn into the seam.

Like you say, agree to disagree. :smiley:

Ever run into condensation in a gasline? :shock: Took me over an hour to clean my sieverts and 100’ of line today. Sheeesh!

[attachment=2]Water in Gasline (2).jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=1]Water in Gasline (3).jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=0]Water in Gasline (4).jpg[/attachment]

Had to disassemble the iron and it took some time to completely blow the lines clean.

Only time I’ve seen condensation in a gasline is when people don’t purge their lines after using the tank. ie Turn off the tank regulator and then open your line at the operating handle so all gas is purged from the line after use. Other than that I’d say you have a leak, I’ve always used Teflon tape at my hose connections.

Wait… Why do you have a 100’ gasline?!

I work on some high stuff. Current copper roof is 54’ up. I leave the tank on the ground or a lower roof.

It’s almost impossible to properly purge the lines with an OPD on the tank. Other end has quick connect. Yellow teflon here too.

I was talking to Kevin today and he said the same thing happened to him. I was thinking the same thing anyway.

Here are some pix of the upcoming project. It hasn’t been ‘rebuilt’ yet, so I laid it out on the shop floor.

Well, I can’t do pix. I got this message: “Sorry, the board attachment quota has been reached.”

I’ve always tied a piece of strong, thin rope to my tanks top stem (about 3’ of strong clothesline). That way I can tie it off if needed so it won’t roll off the roof. Also can stand the tank on a ladder rung this way and secure it to a higher rung. If you have serious issues on difficult/steep/high areas on a regular basis I’d seriously consider picking up a cheap SCUBA harness of “pony pack” to get your tank up those problem areas safely and use a standard 8’ hose over a 100’.

No, I wouldn’t wear the tank in the harness while I was soldering, lol. I like my tank a few feet away just in case there is ever a leak.

Wrong no matter how you look at it to me.