I live in AZ and have a clay tile roof with a chimney. I had persistent leaks in the area of the chimney due to a poor install that came with the home and I recently had the chimney re-flashed to correct the problem. Previously I had channel flashing on the sides (though not j-pan) with appropriate metal counter-flashing. There wasn’t sufficient overlap between the two, along with numerous other issues which required the repair. The new job has proper j-pan channel flashing, but the roofers appear to not have installed metal counter-flashing on the chimney. It almost appears to be some kind of membrane/tape that they used to join the top of the channel flashing to the sides of the chimney? From what I’ve read, this is not a proper job, but I wanted to get the opinion of some experts before I ask the roofer to correct. Here is a picture of the current install.
Use lead as the counter flashing here
So it comes over the hump of the tile.
Thanks for the response. I know exactly what flashing style you are referring to, and unfortunately I haven’t seen examples like that in my neighborhood or others. Unfortunately it seems that malleable flashing for tiles (lead or otherwise) isn’t really used in this part of the country. I’ve seen it done on the apron, but that’s about it. Most counterflashing I have seen (and what I had previously) looks like this. Some of my neighbors have stepped counter flashing that is actually embedded in mortar joints rather than just run straight down the side. Besides the lack of metal counterflashing, I’m also concerned that the channel flashing is now adhered directly to the chimney. If there is any differential movement between the chimney and the rest of the house that membrane would split/rip right off.
Not sure what that gunk they used is. Cutting a reglet into the chimney and installing a proper counter flashing is not very hard even after the fact. If the new flashing fixed the leak I would install a permanent counter before that gunk deteriorates.
The tile pan you have is fine. The lack of a separate counter flashing is not good. Cutting a reglet and installing counter flashing should be done.
Using lead and forming from behind the to-be-installed counter flashing and then over the barrel of the tile is a great way to do it; however, most homeowner’s don’t want to see the lead formed over the tile.
Looking at the provided picture, at least the tile installer had the common sense to offset his rake trim piece head laps from the head laps of the field tile above them.
Id have a better opinion if i could see the roof area below the chimney.
Does the roof end right there?
Or is there further living space below?
Thanks for the replies all. It’s a pretty complex part of the roof. The pitched section with tile transitions to a flat/low pitch section done in TPO. The chimeny’s position in the tile section is also relatively close to a gabled end.
I’ve notified the installed of my concern regarding the missing counter-flashing. Will report back.
That is actually a really easy chimney to flash. Irregular rock is much more difficult. There is a giant void at the bottom corner. I hope there is a large malleable apron flashing dumping water onto the next course down. Transition in front is a simple detail also.
Looking closer at picture, they may have run membrane right to the chimney and this would contain the water if done properly.
After seeing the bigger photo,
Im more comfortable with the “possible trapped water”
Looks like it “could” be done well with care
With water easily draining out of it.
I am also ok with their counterFlashing.
It is a legitimate method.
They used a roofing system involving
A waterproofing paint inter wined with a cloth membrane. Like HydroStop or
This is a clay tile roof that should last 50 years. Is this chimney counter flashing going to survive that long also? That is always my concern on our roofs but we are in the Pacific Northwest and I’m sure Arizona climate is much more forgiving.
I consider this tile a rich mans roof.
The highest cosmetics
But one that doesnt last barely any longer than a shingle roof.
Ive seen it over and over.
I hate tile over batton roofing.
Worst ever water proofing.
That flat roofing under it isnt going to last 50 years either…
I dont know, maybe most roofers have better workmanship these days, but i doubt it.
I truthfully have more confidence with Hydro-Stop
On a wall than i do with any Barrel tile on a roof…
Yes, very controversial words, i know.
So many valid points you’ve made I barely know where to start!
You are absolutely correct in that it is a shiny cover when not not addressed properly. That is on the installer that doesn’t want/care for his work to last as long as the product he is installing.
Regarding battens, I’m guessing this clay tile roof is direct to deck installation, but I digress. Even a standard concrete tile roof, done properly, will outlast any comp roof ever created. This would mean 5 rib valley and J-pan, double layer #30 ASTM, ice/water shield in valleys, and elevated battens. The main detail on top of this is MAINTENANCE. Contractors don’t educate their customers on the importance of this. A sports car needs more maintenance than a Kia but also performs way better.
We do tile repairs/ inspections almost daily and most concrete tile roofs are in great shape after 30 years if they are taken care of. Clay tile 50+. Main problem is improper, (cheaper) components and lack of maintenance.
It is garbage.
If it aint “226”
It aint shit.
And Most roofers have no idea what i am talking about.
20-30 years ago no builder and most roofers didnt understand the underlayment needed.
Now??? It is even worse.
I was told by an Abc supplier ( in a close by city) that i bought the very last roll of felt they had with no plans to order more.
Here it is.
I dont have hardly any faith in most roofers roofs in the last ten years if i am not making the material decisions.
Good 30# is hard to come by. Only one area distributor in the area has anything decent.
D-226 #30 is the minimum for clay or concrete tile. Double coverage, staggered layers only.
Most clay tiles are direct nail set ups. Most concrete tiles require battens due to the lugs on the back side of the tile.
If you are not shimming your battens at all nailing points with folded comp shingles (open end of fold facing down slope) between the bottom side of the batten and the top surface of your underlayment then you’re creating a water dam with your battens. The best way to prevent water dams with battens is to shim or, better yet, use the pre-fab elevated batten system that Boral sells. It takes out the guess work, you don’t come off as a meathead hack and any blown in moisture has the opportunity to flow free to the bottom and exit the drainage plane.
We need to implore our suppliers to provide this product.
Some roofing situations are not going
To work with synthetic.
No, not even 2-ply synthetic “226”…
The laborer doesnt want to deal with the asphalt, neither does most roofing Company owners, the supplier has the highest motivation for pushing synthetic
Because they triple the profit doing it because a semi truck load of synthetic is super light and is hauling high profit material.
A load of felt would weigh over double the synthetic and each roll would be worth 2-3 times less.
Good Info Keepitlow
I enjoyed looking at the Boral site.
I’m not convinced their baton system solves the problem.
Im concerned that the tile fasteners that are now easily exposed under the elevated baton system could be a problem.
Love the extra air flow and instant drain out though.
I am very impressed with the flashing of all the hips and ridge. Nice!
Definitely will use that flashing next tile job
If i have to do it.
They will be paying me a small fortune.
The thought of all that crunchy in my teeth and eyes…
All the broken tiles ill have to replace after i already replaced them…
I hope the repair is done successfully.