Cost of drip edge?

I was quoted $575 out the door to install drip edge on my roof. 140 feet worth is needed total.
Is this a good price in Ohio? What are some things that I should be aware of that the installer needs to do, as I want to make sure no short cuts are taken. Roof already has shingles on it. Also can it just be directly installed under the shingles? I read that it needs to be installed under the felt or house wrap and under the ice and water shield but I don’t see those in my pics? It’s easier to slip the drip edge under the free edge of the shingles, nail it, and be done… which isn’t the way to go I believe?

What is the cost of the materials if they go with $5 for 10 feet worth of vinyl drip edge which is what home depot sells it for. $70 or so?


Installing drip edge after the fact in an adventure into the unknown. Eave access, low nails, roof slope and the looming possibility of tearing the shingles are all considerations when pricing this out. You also might be expecting some sort of warranty for the installation?

The physical drip edge is the smallest component influencing the price here. Hope that helps.


Excellent points. What is the typical warranty length offered on something like this? 10 years? 20 years?

Typically, unless it’s for a previous customer, I avoid it. It’s really not a pretty job jamming something under shingles which may have already been seated for quite a while. The warranty you should expect, in all fairness to the person doing this, is that the product does not fall off. I noticed there is a gap from the faccia to the roof deck, this means you need to go further up the slope and under the shingles/membrane to fasten the product and ensure the drip edge then overhangs the gutter but 1/2" to 3/4" ish.

If you could just make sure the installation was completed properly on a best efforts basis, that is all you should expect and be grateful someone is willing to come and do it in the first place.

Good luck!

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gutter apron should be goog enough,but oyu dont have iceguard means youre in warmer part ,also wood looks solid,how old is the roof why bother ,did you found out it randomly ?

This is not enough $ money to properly do what you want done, this is not going to end well.


Squirrels are getting into my attic through the gap, they lift up the shingles and go under. This is what happens when homes are allowed to be built without drip edge lol. I need it sealed without damaging the roof do to water entrapment. What do you suggest? The rodent control company claims they install drip edge all the time, but they are obviously not experienced roofing contractors. They are the ones that pointed out the issue and offered to install the drip edge. How should I handle this? Home was built in 1995 and the roof was replaced in 2007 (probably went over the shingles and didn’t do a full replacement) by the previous owners. Home inspection didn’t report it in 2013 when I bought the home and when I asked them today why they didn’t, they said it’s not something they are required to report…

I agree with axiom. This job will be very difficult and time consuming to do properly. The amount he charged is “quick repair to hold someone over till then can do the job” type money, not take your time and do the job right. You can’t expect any type of warranty on that job.


So what should I do? The roof is 14 years old. Just do his quick fix for now?

You need to make very clear to them what you want done and how you want it done and that their price doesn’t accurately reflect that they understand what it is you are expecting.

If I were to do this (which I have) I would remove the first course and starter and discard them.

I would then install the drip edge, then strip in the drip edge with 6" window flashing or ice & water shield strips.

I would then install the starter and 2 courses of shingles with both being short because the drip edge will now be sticking out otherwise.

I assume this is just being done on the eaves, to do the rakes also would be even worse.

Depending on access I would be at least 2x that estimate and likely 3x.

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Have you considered contracting the squirrels? Maybe some sort of rent for work completed agreement? :wink:

An option to consider is to remove the first several courses of shingles , set down the proper edge treatment and then replace with new starter and the 3 removed courses as a repair. This way the deficient area is exposed and accessible for the installer. Recognize this, when you reroof, this will need to be remedied anyhow so why not just do it now? Color matching may be an issue as the potential the existing shingles may already be brittle and not as willing to be removed gracefully. Still, the idea of forcing something underneath is a pain in the arse and most often poorly accomplished because everyone gets pissed off after encountering the third low nail. They then realize they should have charged you $10,000 to do the :skull_and_crossbones:@:eight_pointed_black_star:# job in the first place!

Honestly, you’re kinda stuck between a rock and a hard place. That amount of money isn’t enough to do the job properly. But the amount of money to do it properly would likely be a waste considering your roof is 14yrs old. Despite what they say on the wrapper, shingle roofs usually last around 20 years, 25 if you are lucky.

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Looking at the pics again, it’s also going to need a drip edge with a larger nailing flange also.

Can you link me to a pic for a drip edge that has the larger nailing flange? Where would they sell these?

In this case, and for the time being, consider using a 4" or 6" aluminum fascia as a stop gap rather than custom drip edge. Score with a straight edge and box cutter to desired projection uphill and rather than nailing from the top, use PL 400 along the bottom as you slide it in? That will surely stay in place then.

They would likely need to custom bend these on an aluminum break.

So worst case scenario, being that the roof will need to be replaced in 6 years or so anyway, is there a risk of damaging the wood under the shingles if this isn’t installed properly which will cost me even more to fix in the future, or is it ok for them to implement this quick fix for now?

If you have soffit ventilation the most cost effective repair would be to rip 1X pine lumber to fill the gap. Face screw it into the rafter tails. That way the existing shingles won’t need to be torn up. You could probably o that job on a single story house.

It’s a 2 story home.

So what they are suggesting is to use a 1x1 which is in an L shape (metal) and secure it with screws. They said there wouldn’t be any water entrapment or drainage issues doing it this way. Pros/cons of this method?