Crisping up before shingling

SO reading this site has been good and going to hire a pro to do my roof but he is letting me be involved. Since reading the site it is clear I would not be happy with my own work.

I don’t want the one day done thing as it won’t give me time to straighten up the roof, home is 35 years old, back and side are nice, front has some sag over the garage area/

Roof in not plywood but looks like 1 x 8" pine but it probably only 5/8 thck will check.

The main thing I want to do is punch up any sagging roof joists, not the right term but the 2 x 6’s that give you whatever pitch that the roof is attached to. I figure I can cut them push up then attach anoher 2 x 6 glue and screw and it should stay up, we are not talking alot here I will measure tomorrow so I have an idea.

I notice if I sight down from side to side the facia bows out in one spot, not tons but will reduce that as well, not a big deal when it is apart.

How do you guys deal with minor sags in the roof, is it something that is
usually ignored or do you tell you customer I can lay some sheets of plywood on top or or. In this case i dont think I would put ply over the solid pine,

Also how does tarping up work? I asked this contractor if he minded if I strip the roof and he smiled and said no. Later I thought if I want to spend a day tweaking things a bit first then I should have some tarps ahead of time just to be 100 percent sure if there are any weather changes.

What sizes do you use, home is 25 x 60 feet long and how do you fasten them. I can ask him ell this stuff but it is 2:00 am plus here and think I should let him sleep.



usually i end up creating another dip or sag when i try and fix one.
unless its a damaged area that can easily be fixed i stay away from tryin to fix settling problems.
but it you must , just get your self a couple tarps and nail them with some 1x2 furing strips.


go in the attic and build a purlin wall. This consists of stiff legs that go from rafter to the top of a bearing wall some where in the attic You will have to find one. Nail a 2x6 perpindicular to the rafters to recieve the new stiff legs. Put them at least every other rafter if they are 2 feet OC, or every third rafter if they are 16 OC

that wont fix a sag. you forgot to mention that he would need to jack the areas that are sagging to their original heights THEN support them. Like gweedo said, leave it alone, it isnt worth the trouble.

dude, forget the goddamn sag. houses settle. tell the next buyer how much old style charm it has and be done with it. use a tape measure and not a level for projects. youre making way too big a deal of this in my opinion. the joneses arent looking at your sag, dont worry. are there structural problems with it? if not, stop putting a sticker on your head that says “i’m a sucker” to your roofer and spend the money to finish your basement or something. My living room floor is like a 4 pitch, the appraiser didnt notice! It’s not rotted, its structurally sound.

I repaired 1 sag in my life time and it was more trouble than it was worth. Hip beam was saggin so i raised it about 4 or so inches. Man that was a crappy afternoon.


You need to find out why it is sagging.

Sometimes the framers put the rafters in with out crowning the lumber. Then you just have to sister the rafters with straight lumber.

The sag may be because the walls are pushing out.

Maybe cracked ridge board.

Could be a lot of things.

If it is not serious. leave it alone.

I am a bit too picky.

Does crowning mean you site the board and put the crown up, would make sense, I work with material tension and preload in furniture depending on what it is, sometimes I preload table tops.

I noticed on one the sag is at the garage and I think there is sag above the garage door so will push it up and see. I did jack up a roof truss the other day and could push it up well over an inch, now I can see a bulge out front from the one I pushed up so will let it down.

Picked up roof mates today and will get all the fiberglass out plugging the rafters and put these in.

Wnat to insulate the attic better and was told they make fiberglass with vappour barrier on one side, was not able to find it up here.



That is crowning.

The header above the garage door maybe the reason for the sagging. If I remember correctly you have a 16’ garage door.

IF not just let the rafter down 1/2 of what you jacked it up. Look again. You should be fine.

Just be careful. The more you move the lumber, the more you are loosening up the joints. Use the same knowledge that you have with the furniture joints and you will be fine.

It does not matter if you are picky or not. It is your house. Do you want to be sitting in your house always thinking about that rafter?

If it’s structurally sound and not too much sag we sometimes remove low areas by shimming out the rafters and re-sheeting.