Dormer water damage *not* repaired before new roof was installed. Now what?

My fault. I had the new roof put on before the damaged siding was repaired on the junction of where the dormer meets the shingles. In addition, the roof above is EPDM rubber and is a very low slope. You can see the water damaged area in the detail photo and in the whole house photo you can see the location of where the damage is.

So…what to do now. Should have repaired it before roof was added, but that is water under the bridge now. What do you think is the best way to repair this area?

Thanks very much!

If you are asking about that facia that goes behind the gutter, it is better left alone as it is providing the new roof fixed the problem.

I’m curious as to how the wall is flashed in that area.

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looks like your missing step flashing there

I am not real comfortable with what I can see, but I am afraid that my fear of heights keeps me from climbing up for a closer look. There does seem to be step flashing, but the uppermost piece you can see (that appears very bright, brown) looks to be on the outside of what’s left of the fascia board.

This whole situation makes me nervous…

Whoever designed this eighty years ago sure left a mess of an intersection. Sloped shingles onto a flat rubber roof, with a small valley dumping onto a side wall with a soil stack right in the middle of the mix. Then it runs off onto the rubber deck below. No wonder it is still leaking after the new roof was installed!

The simple answer is, yes, it should have been addressed before or at the same time as the roof. Based on the photos provided the rot should be addressed sooner rather than later. I would do a thorough inspection to see how extensive the damage is. Then I would remove the gutter and rotten wood. If flashing is present I would attempt to pull it free from the side of the house if needed. If flashing is attached to the deck you may be able to fold it down a bit to get it out of the way. Then install new primed and painted wood. Reattach flashing and install new siding where it is missing.

This is my best guess judging from the photos alone.

Oh, if flashing is absent you will need to install step flashing.

This is not the roofers fault as many roofers don’t deal with facsia or other types of wood rot outside of the roof deck.

Oh no! Im not positive but it
Looks like you have a dead valley
Where water doesnt drain off the roof but floods right into a wall.
hopefully there is a small cricket up there diverting the water to the corner.

And do i see architect shingles installed on a 2/12 pitch?? Uh oh.

@roof_lover: It’s not a dead valley, but it’s a dying one for sure! :slight_smile:

The roof over the open back porch is about a 2 1/2 : 12 pitch. These are Owens Corning Duration shingles, and they allow application of 2:12 to 4:12 as long as the deck has either double underlayment on the whole deck or watershield on the whole deck. I was not present when the job as done, and don’t have much confidence that the roofing crew did it that way, but there is no easy way for me to tell at this point.

@Charles_Anderson: Thanks. I will probably have to pull off a few levels of the shingles in order to properly do the flashing, no?

It should have been flashed properly regardless of the condition of the siding right there. If the siding was going to be an issue, a good roofing crew would have brought that to your attention at the time.

With that said, it shouldn’t be a huge problem to remove a few shingles to fix the siding and make sure that sidewall is flashed properly. Do it soon so the new shingles don’t fade and you have a cosmetic issue.

Perhaps it is the angle of the photo but what would concern me more is that area to the left of the sidewall seems to be tilted towards the sidewall. Perhaps that is why roof_lover called it a dead valley. It may just be the photo or it could be you have some decking issues.

If the flashing is non-existent then yes, you will likely have to remove some shingles.

To replace the rotten bottom fascia corner
will also require the removal and re-install of the 2 story gutter.

Yes you are correct in the stated minimum requirement.
Florida and manufactuer says it is ok.
I do not.
I would demand 2ply of ice and water shield
And NOT the Durations.
Worst architect you could put on a low slope in my opinion.
I am so sorry. The Pink Panther got you!
Just my opinion.
But it is over now. Cant change it.

I assumed you put those durations on the 2 story flat roof also?
Uh oh.

They really should have diverted that almost dead valley past the corner a lil bit.
That might continue to be a problem for you, but maybe not.

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The second story flat roof, as well as the walk out decking, are all EPDM rubber.

@roof_lover: What makes the Owens Corning Duration particularly bad for the 3:12 application?

The sure nail strip sits lower on the shingle than the rest of the shingle.
Rub your hand across the area to feel it.
This is also where you install your nails.
The nails pull the shingle in this area even deeper.
When water gets in through the side seams,
Water sits in this trough area.
It rusts out the fasteners.
With the architect shingle there is a very small area to install the nail.
You want your nails installed into the "double thickness part of the shingle, not the single layer part.
Well owens corning decided to install their surenail strip with half single layer and half double layer.
The entire sure nail strip area should be double thickness throughout.
Notice the picture i will share where the nail is driven exactly where Owens corning says it should go…
But only half the nail is flush
The other half of the nail is busted through the strip
Water then gets under this sure nail strip
And the strip itself then keeps the intruding water from evaporating
Then the nails rust out.
The lower the pitch the worse it is.

This is a
Pic of a rusted nail on a two month old 7/12😮
Zoom in on the pic to understand it a lil better.

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Malarkeys have a double thickness for the entire nailing area.

It’s a nicely engineered shingle.

Thank you for pointing that out Axiom!
No Malarkeys available in Florida.
Makes me so sad.
Id love to use them!
I wonder how good their algae resistance is.
Certainteeds landmarks show algae at year 6 like clock work.