I am a homeowner and need a complete roof tear-off on a 1928 bungalow. One roofer proposes an overhang drip edge at gables. The 2nd roofing company said that is not necessary and would look unsightly on my style of home. What to do?
We never do drip edge up the gable rakes,only on the eaves. Almost nobody does around here. It looks like crap, unless you have one of those cheap and cheesy vinyl sided houses. We do install starters up the rakes with a 3/4" overhang.
I would choose the roofer who wants to install the drip on your rake. He cares about the look of your home. And the added protection it gives your home.
Its probably the same roofer who didnt want to put shingles on your low-slope. Correct?
depends what part of the country you are located in. It is common practice in some places but not in others. Roofing is very regional.
Oddly enough, it is not the same roofer. More expensive roofer #1: Drip edge at gables (color) and ice/water shield and shingles on low slope.
Roofer #2 Proposes no drip edge and no shingles on the low slope. In addition #1 proposes 7 vents for 1500 sq. ft.and roofer #2 wants to put in 4. AND roofer #1 has his men put in nails ‘by hand’ and will not use a power tool for that. Says it’s the wrong way to roof. Price difference between #1 and #2 is approximately 1,000.00.
Mostly tho’,I am concerned w/the right choice for the drip edge and the low slope. Don’t know if it makes any difference but my 82 year old home is near Chicago, so that tells you a bit about weather conditions.
I really appreciate the help that everyone is giving to me. This is a bit more difficult for me than purchasing a light fixture!
I would go with roofer number 2.
The low-slope thing is important.
I dont like the fact that roofer #1 told you that using anything but hammers is incorrect.
Abusing his mens bodys in order to make a sale. i assume this man who told you this WOULD NOT be working on the roof installing the shingles himself.
There is no way i could hire the highest quality help, with much experience if i forced them to handnail all their shingles.
They would go work for someone else who appreciated their skill and hard work.
I could have a hand-nailing crew. But they would be the bottem of the barrell, lil experience, and hardly any of them would even have their own vehicle, much less a drivers license.
I would assume that roofer 1 also doesn’t use a lift or ladder conveyor cause that is the wrong way too. No dump trailer or dumpster either. Hell all natural wood ladders too. Hey where is the horse drawn carrage?
1.25" coil nails hold better than any 3/4" or 1" roofing tacks. As long as the dept is set on the guns correctly they do as good as hand drives. Drip is not required but may be prefered in your area. If done correctly it will be fine either way. The low slope is important though. Low slope + ice + shingles = big leaks :mrgreen:
This is a picture of the area in question for the drip edge. Will adding the edge make a difference aesthetically? Will it detract from the appearance as the roofer said it would?http://www.roofing.com/images/topics/9766/img_1278163431.jpg
It is mainly a regional thing. Now are both roofers going to use metal but one wants to use a drip edge style and the other wants to use standard 90 degree edge metal? All the drip egde does is allow your shingles to hang out farther over the edge. That is if he installs it facing out and not up! Your still going to want a material over hang of about 3/4 inch. Honestly you don’t need drip edge but even if you went with it you probably wouldn’t even notice the difference when on the ground. Only thing to make sure is that if you have a 1x2 wood strip on the gable eaves that the metal isnt so big it completely cover the strip and hang below it that would look bad. And about the roofer who hand nails. To him it might be a sense of pride to hand nail but in no way, shape or form is using technology to make a job faster or easier wrong. In the past journeymen we graded on how fast the could install hand nailing but it’s a thing of the past. Sounds like he’s just not keeping up with the times. Good luck!
If you like the completely exposed rafter tail look, than yeah, it will take away cosmeticly.
Although, someone in the future is going to love paying large dollars fixing rotted rafters tails. They dont last forever.
But,If you do decide to go without the metal there,
Keep a quality paint job on those rafter tails, ALWAYS. There, the paint will be for waterproofing, not looks.
This pic raises a totally different and much more serious issue and that is the wall flashing.
Flashing is supposed to go behind the siding and under the shingles. Sometimes flashing can be installed on the outside of the wall if much detail is used. But it should ALWAYS go under the shingles(on the side walls).
This flashing can not be reused since it is set too high up.
If neither roofer brought up this issue…
Regarding the flashing…I’d never have thought of that! The facade is stucco. So, the flashing has to be, at least, under the shingle? Roofer #2 (no drip edge), I believe, said that he was going to use the same flashing so that he didn’t damage the stucco, if he were to remove it. If that’s the case, then,that brings up the question: can he leave the flashing and shingle over it the lower edge? I have to be prepared with this info when I talk to these guys next week, so I more than appreciate all of this input. And, the ‘tails’ have recently been repainted.
No drip edge is needed unless you plan to put a fascia cover on at some point. The flashing would definetly be my worry. The current flashing installed on top of your shingles is wrong. It is very possible that there is a step flashing installed under the shingles. If not the roofer could score metal at the bend, and use the current flashing as a counter flashing and install new step flashing. Depending on the pitch and the size of your low slope be very leary putting shingles on it. Shingles are not designed to go on less than a 3/12. Id put E.P.D.M rubber on it.
By looking at the pictures, this is my best guess.
You do have flashing under the shingles that also go behind the stucco. A second roof was installed on top.
They didnt do anything special there but lay new shingles. The side wall leaked. Its tarred and gooped on top real good and didnt look too attractive. Tar all over the stucco and shingles. Then this metal was installed on top just for looks and a lil protection.
now you have to figure how how to deal with this huge mess.
The best thing to do is to cut the stucco out. cut a straight line in the stucco about 3 1/2 inches off of the deck. then try to slide new pre-painted(brown)
flashing behind it. That might be a success.
Worst case scenario is that you fill back in some of the stucco.
Will you see the line where they worked on the stucco where it doesnt match perfectly? probably yes. But only you will see it and notice it.
Worse,worse case scenario is they need to paint the whole wall.
Unless they get it all over the new shingles. :roll:
They will probably spend more time dealing with that, than dealing with the whole roof.
One man needs to be dedicated to workin on that all day long.
It would be real nice if it was all finished even before the felt got laid on that side.
Umm, you might need to talk to a NEW roofer…
Neither of your other two seem to want to confront the issue,Have the passion, our spend the 400 dollars in labor,taxes,wc, material, big risk, time to do it.
On most roofs where we’ve had this dilema,you can rip all the old metal out and in most cases we are able to slip in new steps and wall flashing in behind stucco,for the finished look you could do what roof-lover said and cut a STRAIGHT line and put in counter flashing or you could put a gum strip counter on and replace the gum every 5-10yrs…some guys dont like the gum strip to much say it dont work however i’ve done it on some jobs where it was the only solution and have had NO call backs and thats going back at least 10yrs on some of them…
My company is located just a couple of hours south of Chicago, in my 10yrs of replacing roofs we have never not used drip edge. As far as appearance is concerned you can order drip edge in almost any color. So you should be able to match it pretty well to your paint color.
It also serves as a guard for high winds and blowing rain from getting under the shingles.I would recommend drip edge around the perimeter of the roof in the midwest.Also in my opinion it minimizes having to hang the shingles over the rake so much. Which looks very bad . Again thats my opinion.
You may also see what the building code requires in you area as well, so you know what roofer is knowledgeable about these things, that could say alot.
I would also take a guess and say the flashing that we see is counter flashing and that it is step flashed underneath. I would make sure that they are installing all new flashing, step and counter flashing. It would be ridiculous not to replace both.
Use the roofer that wants to use drip edge and has a metal shop that can form the metal to be installed without being unsightly. This could be as simple as installing a J-flashing that wraps the existing wood trim and returns to the rake board.
The thing about rake drip edge and Cape Cod architecture is that with a wood sided house with crown or custum mouldings running for rake trim. It would just look retarded. The few companies that do roof this way also employ illegal aliens that cant cut a straight overhang. :o . but the metal hangs over the molding and looks terrible, but I am just a nut for neatness about how a roof looks. I have roofed several buildings built in the 1600’s and hundreds of building built in the 1700’s
to edge metal or not to edge metal.
well there are still communitys that just do not use edge metal.
i am in high wind area.
i have to put it on there, to tar shingles to it around all edges.
to me it excist more so to hold edge of shingles down(once tar hardens), rather than cosmetically trim the edges.
poster try at pc of 5" edge metal rather than 6"
pc. it has a smmaller face. not as noticable but
just as effective.
Thanks for all of your help. You roofers are a great bunch! I finally get what gables are. I really didn’t know when I first asked for help. I thought they were just on the dormer. Now that I know what they are…and did a walking ‘drip edge’ search in my neigborhood, I have decided to have them installed.