This is 6/12 shingled roof (new), with 1x10 cedar fascia plus 1x3 cedar molding flush with the top of the sheathing. Would really want to have additional protection here with the drip edge of smaller (1" or so) face.
Is it a good idea and how far shingles should extend over the drip edge in this case ?
Thanks in advance.
Install t style dripedge & go even w/it.
Never go flush ever. Water wicking happens then unless you do ice and water and starters up the rake.
Me use the t style 3/4 to 1 inch max overhang and to make life easy use the elk starter strips to keep you in line up the roof and you then can cut flush to that and make a clean install. All it takes is a few minutes and a chalk line. Oh some one who know how to use a roofing knife.
I disagree w/ GTP on this one, water wicks anyway you do it. You dont need the overhang because of your t style metal is giving you 1 inch, your shadow board another 3/4 inches, & your fascia board another 3/4 inch! So thats a total of 2 1/2 overhang right there! Plus you have paper & ice & watershield under your drip. If you must listen to GTP only go w/ a 1/4 or 1/2 inch max! Anymore than that you give wind something to grab onto & when it gets hot it will fold down & look like shit!
I also failed to mention that most rakes arent flush w/ the siding & living space either. Maybe old capes or saltboxes. Your rake, soffet, & fascia are probably 8 to 24 inches out away from your siding, & or living space, easy. Use the t style drip & go flush.
Actually your both off a bit.
According to Certainteed, If you use drip edge then you extend the material over the rake edge 1/2 inch. if you use NO drip edge the you go 3/4 inch. something else to remember, D style drip edge has small ridges running lengthwise that will help stop wicking of moisture to the underlayment.
I personally would use 2x2 nosing (90 degree metal) for your application and then extend the material over 3/4 inch. You will also want a starter course running up the rake with this overhang to give you a straight line to cut on. I use rolled starter all the way around rakes and eaves. this way you have a nice line to look at when on the ground and you know your shingles are all lined up evenly.
you can use smaller nosing such as 1.5x1.5 or 1x1.5 but its better to have more width up top to make sure the edge of your underlayment is fully covered so water that does get under wont run back to the barge rafter and since there sometimes are gaps between your 1x3 trim board and the sheeting, having metal that reaches plenty over those gaps will be better for nailing and also make sure the metal doesnt get distorted or twisted during installation. i only use smaller them 2x2 if the trim board is smaller such as 1x2 since 2x2 metal would hang below the trim board in that case.
Bravo Gatesy! Outstanding! I forgot all about them damn 5 or so little ridges in the mass produced store bought dripedge! If the h.o. is really concerned, they can roof cement down the starter & first course like they do in Miami!
not sure how i should take that but…
not saying that they will in fact do much for re routing moisture but it might. we used to use that stuff back in the day but its a pain to find now. saw it a lot in TX tho. like i said i prefer nosing with a nice 1/2-3/4 over hang with starter.
overhang shingles 3/4" to an inch and skip the drip.
Gatesy, I was being serious not sarcastic about the ridges in the drip. I seriously forgot to mention that. You remember that & I was saying good catch, just applauding you.