I have had some problems with ice damming in the past and am currently talking to some local roofers about putting on a new roof this summer. All four proposals I have received include adding ice shield, which is now code in my area, but only one has mentioned also adding a drip edge. Is that an important consideration or is the ice shield alone sufficient? I am really not clear what the drip edge does or what the benefit would be. Thanks in advance for anyone who can enlighten me.
im guessin you mite be from the south east us.
dont beleive much in edge metal round them parts.
i would advise usin it no matter where you are.
it looks better and makes for a stronger edge durin storms.
but lets let some of the ice pros way in.
only ice i see is in my drinks.
Im in Chicagoland and have many successes both ways. I always use an apron in the gutter, though.
If you don’t use drip edge you should have a overhang of 3/4in minumal and if you use drip edge you sould have a minumal overhang of 1/2in.
Being how you can run less of an overhang with drip edge leads me to believe it’s better to have it than not have it.
The only times I won’t put down drip edge is if the cedar boards don’t allow for it. Some jobs you have a couple inches of cedar on the eaves then no decking for an inch. Nailing into cedar is not a good idea at least in Minnesota, they will pop up. A large gutter apron would be the only way to do it.
What works good if not using drip edge is to run the ice and water shield as low onto the trim boards as possible and even run ice and water shield up the rakes covering as much wood as possible.
Use drip edge.
Use it. I suggest “DL” type, profile shown here…
BTW, my local supply house has a drip edge mfg. by Decra that extends up the deck by around 4" (6" from top edge to leading edge)… haven’t gotten a price on it yet, but I am very interested. Don’t know if they have a mill finish or not.
Why once you put a nail in it it will leak around the nails.
Drip edge doesnt keep ice dams out of the living area :evil:
It is just part of the system that is required.
drip edge prevents water from doing a “WICKING” effect back onto the plywood and helps divert water into a gutter system. ice dams will be protected against with drip edge as you are supposed to put the ice & water barrier OVER the drip edge which will seal the nail head.
Just how far does water “wick” up a roof deck that has Ice and water shield on it? :roll:
Use drip edge. Very important product to keep the fascia board from rotting out from the water coming off the roof.
absolutely use it! how much do you actually save by skipping this step?
not every body runs ice & water down the fascia…so what happens to the exposed edge of plywood?
I dont know thats why I was asking about this “wicking” action…that and I was just messing with you :mrgreen:
Drip edge is not a end to all the problems, I would guess that less than 15% of the houses roofed in the Indy area has drip edge(we use gutter apron) and we dont have a epidemic of rotting gutter boards or the edges of roof decking.
We sell it as part of a “system”
Gweedo can probably relate to this…
When I was roofing in Port Saint Lucie (just about 35 miles N of West Palm Beach) I did a house that had a super gutter on the eave which then connected to a screened patio / pool combo.
There was (I say was because one of the two hurricanes that raked the Gold Coast knocked it over) a rather large pine tree in the back yard next door & it rained pine needles on the screen as well as filled (& was never removed from) the super gutter.
(FYI, a super gutter is about 6" wide & 6" deep)
The pine needles made quite a mat of debris & on top of that, pine needles are highly acidic… leftover needles will eventually eat the paint off of your car’s finish.
Anyhow, with the high acidity & the backed up water, moisture did indeed wick back up into the fascia & roof deck. We ended up having to do a major structural repair from the inside out & in sections of 4’ @ a time because we couldn’t fully remove the gutter OR the screened patio enclosure on that side of the house (not licensed for screens & there wasn’t enough damage to pay for a demo / rebuild on the patio framing)… All of this meant we had to leave the patio truss system in place & repair it in sections from the house side soas to not leave a lot of hanging ‘fingers’ of patio truss waving around in the wind.
So, yes… wicking CAN happen & it’s not common to use Ice & Water shield in Florida (single story, 6:12, no valleys on the backside of the house, installed GAF Timberline 30’s).
FWIW, the extra charge for this repair was $ 3,000.00.
I thought we were talking rakes to recieve the drip, but I was mistaken, it seems.
Why in the world would someone use drip edge at the gutter? It pushes itself from the fascia if not bent to the pitch. What benefit is there over an apron.
Shingle monkey 8)
Why wouldnt you want to wrap the IWS over the fascia, especially if your using it as intended…to keep ice dams from infiltration the roofing system? If you do not tuurn it down, then the ice dams will still get in at the fascia/roofdeck interface into the eave, then possibly travel toward those top plates and ceilings. Have fixed this many times.
It seems to be more of a problem with trusses, since they sit right on top of the wall, while a stick framed roof has a birdsmouth, lowering the soffit past the top of the siding.
I like to see…
Ice barrier, wrapped down onto the fascia, but still hidden
It is not hard to do, even with existing gutters, without removing them, and takes a man-hour or two on our average jobs.
it boils down to this…each part of the country has varied methods on roofing…we cant turn the iws down the fascia because it is wrapped with aluminum on most houses(in my area). so the combination of a drip edge and fascia metal will block the ice from rotting the wood. i have been roofing in NY for 19 years and have never seen this done. i’m not saying your methods are incorrect because you may have only seen it done your way for 19 years. if we traveled to the UK (which has a similar climate to NY) i would find the roofing industry there to be 100% different than here. they are almost all slate. so they could argue that us bloody yanks are all loons for using asphaultic roofing. so, who’s to say whos right and whos wrong except the manufacture who apparently has approved a great number of us here on our installation techniques… [size=75]boy that felt like a rant[/size]
Well, Marshall, I cant argue with that…
It’s just that I have seen exactly what you describe, with fascia auminum, and we still wrap down onto it. If there’s no aluminum, we wrap down onto the fascia board itself.
Ice will push up under the metal, too. It’s zany like that.
If the purpose is to avoid water running onto fascia, but the fascia is wrapped with aluminum, how necessary is the drip edge? (The facia is covered? What am I missing?)