Electrical Stack Boot

I have a house with the electrical service entrance through the roof at the eave. The neoprene boot at the roof on that weatherhead stack is cracked. Is there an approved way of repairing/replacing that stack boot without having to slip the new boot over the top of the stack? Disconnecting at the pole to remove the wires to get something over that stack amounts to an astronomical cost!

Thanks for any help!!!


Got a photo?

At any rate, can one of the boots at the link provided below help you any?


I’ll get a pic when I get back to my computer at home. The retrofit boots on the link you provided would be perfect if they were not made for metal roofing. But, that is exactly what I need. Do you know of a source for the same thing for a shingle roof?

Thanks, again!

Here’s what I use. They work really good as long as you cut the tiers properly.

I am having trouble with the spambot, so here is some useless drivel.


We make a very easy to install retrofitting storm collar that will fit right on your electric service stack.

Check out our product line at www.spinflashing.com

Photos and information is on the web site.

All you need to do is order the correct diameter for the galvanized conduit pipe, and install the storm collar with a screw driver.

Also replace the flashing with ease with a Retro-Spin Flashing.

Easy job.

Larry Evensen

ive often pondered this question myself…the link in the post just before this one looks like a sure leaker. as for the others will they work on steep slope asphault?

The storm collar on steep slope roof will work very well, if the Retro-Collar is purchased for the size of the conduit/pipe diameter, and the collar is pushed down over the existing flashing opening.

However, if the old flashing is a real messed up combo flashing that is made from neoprene or silicone and the rise of the metal part of the flashing is very low, I would highly suggest replacing the entire flashing.

It is much more secure if the old low profile flashing is cut out, and replaced with a new flashing with at least a 3" rise above the roof deck.

The roof repair on this type of flashing repair is quite easy.

I always used to spud back the gravel, prime the area, install the flashings with nails, and then use an SBS sheet tied into the roof with a good overlap of at least 6 to 12 inches. Set the SBS modified sheet into a bead of good quality wet patch plastic cement. I used wet patch only because the standard plastic cement is harder to spread, and I’m a lazy guy. To make the repair look good just cover the SBS patch with gravel/rock. In a day or so you cannot take the patch off, and it will never leak.

Torch down can be used also, if your crew is good with a torch. I’m always nervous around flame throwers on any roof job though, especially after my crew almost burnt a famous singer’s house down doing a small repair. It was lucky I was near by with a hose.

Our spin flashing design will do the trick as a good replacement flashing, and the Retro-Collar will counter flash the flashing. The work will look professional, and a roofing contractor can make a good buck doing the work.

Let me know your feelings.


So yours is a two piece? Looks neat.

Yep, I find the roof system, including the flashing should never be directly connected to any penetration. This allows the roof system, structure and the penetration to move around and not create stress that can tear the area and cause problems later.

Our Retro-Spin Flashing is really two flashings, one inside and one outside. The inside spins inside the outside.

This design can be used on any roof slope from 10 & 12 to dead flat. On roofs from 3 & 12 and steeper, just spin the flashing closed 180 degrees and nail it down. On lower sloped roofs, inject a little high quality caulk between the two flashings and then nail the two down tight. The caulk will be in compression, and not exposed to any U.V. This type of seal will easily stand up to any water test on flat work.

On the previous repair with the old split rubber boot flashing. I think I would just cut the old rubber part off, and pound the existing metal part flat. This way you can do the repair and not cut the old roof at all.

Here is a link to see a photo. spinflashing.com/waterproofi … shing.html

I hope this helps.


Send me a sample and I will try it out and report my findings.

I can sell you one, and if you receive it and don’t like it, I will refund your money. All you will be out is the shipping fee to send the parts back.

I need to know the ID size of the conduit. 1.25", 1.50" or 2.0" although we can also provide Retro-Collars with square or angle iron geometric cut outs for equipment screen and support post repairs.

List Price with for the Retro-Spin Flashing and Retro-Collar Kit is $85.19 plus $10.00 to ship.

If you have a supply house you purchase from, and they are willing to stock product, they will probably sell for cheaper since they will buy in quantity.

Call me if your interested.

Larry - 805-557-1225

I have been trying to get two different suppliers in the Chicago area to start stocking parts.

Sheet Metal Supply
121 Schelter Road
Phil Kweton - 847-478-8500


Weber Metals, Inc.
1076 East Park Avenue
Libertyville, IL 60048
Joseph Woldhuis 800-638-2556

Call them or call me, either works.


I do not really need them, since I use the retrofit boots from portals plus, and with excellent results, I might add.

I sometimes do product reviews for roofing publications.

Hey, no sweat.

Just cut a standard pipe flashing on one side so it will slide around the pipe. Once it is on solder the seam back together.