I am looking to get a new roof and was curious on the price I can expect. I am a carpenter, but I do not have the time to do the roof myself, nor am I a big fan of doing roofs. I have a price i think it should cost, but I don’t know what roofers charge. I don’t want to waste any companies time if the price is going to be outrageous. Thanks in advance for any help, it is much appreciated. I know you can’t give me exact, but a ballpark would be appreciated. I think these details would be enough.

Couple of details.

Gable Roof
1900 Sq. ft.
double layer shingle removal.
Looking for the 25yr architecural shingles.
I believe the slope is 6-12. Might be 5-12.
I am in the south suburbs of Chicago.

Gutter Apron Drip Edge Metal?

Gable edge O.D.E. drip edge metal?

15#, 30# or synthetic felt underlayment?

Real starter strip shingles, rolls of starter material or upside down 3-tab shingles?

Ice and water shield water-proofing underlayment? Is it code where you live? How wide are the soffits? It is supposed to extend 24" past the exterior wall. Do you have any valleys?

Accessability for dump truck or dumpster roll-off pan?

Are the gutters secure or loose and pulling away from the fascia board?

Do you have the required amount on Fresh Air Intake Ventilation? How much NFVA do you currently have and how much will you need?

Do you have the correct amount of corresponding roof top exhaust ventilation? How much NFVA and how much is required for the manufacturers warranty?

What type of deck sheathing or dimensional lumber for decking is in place and what is its condition?

30 year architectural shingles are the low/medium category currently. They used to be 25 year shingles, but they changed the warranty length.


no drip edge.
15 felt
yes ice/water shield
real starter strip shingles
yes there is access for a dump truck.
gutters are secure.
yes there is enough air ventalation.
no valleys.
soffits are 24"

Some plywood might need to be replaced and I understand that is priced by the sheet. I know that will be added to the estimate.

Ok, come to my house, tear off the two layers of shingles. Put down 15 felt, ice/water shield and real starter strip shingles. Then lay 30yr architecural shingles. I understand some things will be extra, but I am just trying to get a round about figure.

$6,000 - $12,000.Pretty vague I know,you have to wait to see if someone closer to that area can help you with pricing.Ed,helllp!

What is the total length of all of your gutter eave edges?

It will require either one or 2 rows of ice and water shield, depending on your local code.

Most codes require it to be past the exterior wall by 24", which would mean 2 full rows.

So far I am guestimating the rafters at about 15 foot from eave to ridge and a building length of around 62-63 feet long. Is that about right?

Also, is there any brick chimney in the roof, which would need new sheet metal counter-flashings?


Just based on relative assumptions and other similarly described projects, it would wind up around $ 7,441.00 for the 30 year architectural shingle.

2 Layer T.O.
Dump Truck
Average Roof Permit Fee
Included 2 rows of I & W Shield
15 # Felt
Gutter Apron
Ridge Vent


Thanks Ed, I appreciate the help. Just out of curiousity how much of that is labor? It was little more than I thought, but I am not a roofer and don’t know the exact cost of materials. I was figuring 5k-6k, but you know more than me. Thanks again.

I did include the Shingle Vent II Ridge Venting in the price, which you may not have been accounting for in your guess.

I could count on one hand, how many times in 24 years that I have found the home I am inspecting, actually has the correct amount of both intake ventilation and exhaust ventilation, not counting the newly constructed McMansions, which sometimes have to get torn off and re-roofed after only about 5 years because the builder used the cheapest chittiest light weight shingles they could buy. But, at least they usually were ventilated correctly.

Was I pretty close on the dimensions?

As far as the labor question, that would depend on how you calculate the labor.

By the way, practically every job we do is a tear-off and I am in the NW suburbs near Elgin, so the pricing is geographically in tune with where you are located.

My year ends reveal my actual hourly labor to come out between 25% to 28%, but that does not include the Work Comp, which I believe currently is running 42 points, or per cent if you wish. Nor, does it include the other OH & P items, primarily the GL insurance for a roofing contractor.

Tomorrow, April 1st, the pricing on ALL roofing products and accessories go up by 15% from all of the suppliers I have spoken with, so these figures are based on the price sheets I have on hand right now.

The roof is actually 51ft long and from gutter to ridge is 18ft.

I understand companies have work. comp, insurance etc. I should have asked what the materials cost.

Like I said, it was little more than I thought, but I was really hoping it was not going to be 10K. Again, thanks for the help Ed.

This is a ridiculous thread. Get to work and stop giving ballpark prices.

Okay, then I overestimated the size by about 10%, since I figured you 1,900 sq ft was just the actual roof surface.

So I took that and calculated the miscellaneous starter strips, bleeder strips and ridge cap in addition to the 1,900 sq ft.


Haha, San is my hero of the month!

/e hangs a little picture of San in the April slot…

Let me grab my cut and paste!

Many people come here asking for estimates on their projects, unfortunately price can vary greatly due to a number of factors which make it almost impossible to do over the internet. Your best course of action is to get at least three estimates from local, reputable, insured roofing contractors and compare. If you post a full set of quality pictures, list your city/state and a quick synapsis of your project, you may get lucky and have a member shoot you a very ball park price for your area. However keep in mind that the only price that will matter in the end is the one on the contract you sign.