Facia boards are built and primered with Zinzer deep tint base. Wil be top coated next.
I did the wood with a profile and can always put the aluminum on by slipping it in at some point down the road, if I do I will run an ogee on it so it is at least not that typical look I see and don’t like.
On the homes you see with solid wood facias do they mitre the boards on the four corners of the home or do they butt joint them?
This one was butt jointed and in some ways that makes more sense to me. I was thinking about shrinkage and the mitre would open up more. WIth the front board over the side board it may be better in the long run.
The boards are 16’ long, where they butt each other do you usually see them butt or do they do a scarf joint? Which is an angle cut where one is over the other?
just depends on what neck a the woods your in.
either way works.
Me personally, I would 45 the ends of the fascia boards and fit them together that way end to end. At the corners when you go from fascia board to rake board, I would not miter the corners. I would have the fascia board extend over the end of the rake board, and face nail the end of fascia boards into end of rake boards. That way if you look at the front of the house (without gutters or before gutter installation) you will see the fascia board and not the ends of the rake boards. Also, a mitered corner with wood is not going to be as strong considering the thickness of the rake and fascia boards. The 45 degree cuts where fascia boards are installed end-to-end generally only have to deal with lateral movement, whereas at the corners where fascia meets the rake the boards are moving against each other.
I think I’ve made myself clear, but if I haven’t let me know. Then again, I don’t do much fascia and rake replacement personally, but I do work with wood as a hobby building furniture and upgrading my own home.
I think it depends on the wood. I work on old high end homes and they are mostly redwood and old growth pine with mitred corners and lap joints.