I recently re-shingled my gable roof and decided mid-way through the process to tear off the old fascia board as it was warped. (Note to self, check the fascia board BEFORE you begin to reroof). My question is regarding new aluminum fascia…is that designed to go over new fascia board or can i merely attach the aluminum fascia to the 2x4s of the eaves that were boxed in off the end rafters. I have a drip edge along the rake. Thanks in advance.


The aluminum needs a solid backing. It goes over the wood trim board.

yes you need to put the fascia board back first.

Thank you. I appreciate your advice. Another question for you: how important is overhanging the asphalt shingles along the rake? Is flush w/ the rake board OK? What about w/ a drip edge? I’ll tell you why I ask: when we re-shingled our roof, we started at the bottom w/ about a 1 & 3/4" overhang & squared the shingles as we went using a 4 ft square. We noticed as we got nearer to the top of the roof that the overhang was beginning to become less and less. This was (is still) very puzzling to me. I would have assumed that the eaves would have been built square. On closer inspection (looking up from directly underneath) it appears they were not. I’d like everything to look good (square) however I also don’t want to comprmize the integrity of the shingles and the job they’re designed to do (specifically keep water out of my attic). Thanks again in advance.



Are they 3-tabs?

Hi Lefty…no, they are architectural shingles.

OK…I have to laugh at myself here! Clearly I don’t know what I am talking about!! This is what happens when a banker tries to be a weekend roofer!

Anyway, been doing some more research on the net. First: the shingles I used were “laminated” not “architectural” (don’t know why I thought that). Specifically, they are “Emco BP Harmony (West) Laminated Shingles”. Secondly, I’ve read more than once now that I should leave a 3/8" overhang along the eaves and rakes. So where did I get 1 3/4"? My brother in law as well as a roofer-neighbour of mine told me before I began about the “2 knuckle” rule. I have to ask them about this again (though it is a little late now as it is done) because depending on the size of your fingers, that is probably 1 3/4 to 2". Does that sound right?

That all said, I’ve been told by my roofer neighbour that overall my roof looks great. I DO still have to put up new rake boards, soffitt, re-install the drip edge (I know I know…I’m doing this all out of order), trim the shingles on the one side (the side that has more than adequate overhanging of shingles along the rake).

The other side however is a different story…that is the side where things don’t run perpendicular up along the rake. In fact I could see after ripping off the old rake board that they (whomever “they” were) used shims between the 2x4s of the roof overhang and the rake boards so the rake boards were perpendicular to the horizontal edge of the roof. They also used wood soffit (vs aluminum soffit with “J” trim) which allowed them to have the wood soffit stick out past the 2x4s. Though all the soffit is 11 1/2" wide up and along the entire rake, I can see where some of it is flush to the 2x4s, then it begins to stick out more in places, less in others. This, plus the shimmed rake boards, previously hid the fact that the boxed in eaves were not parallel with the outer wall of the house. Anyway, it is not a biggie. I will install new soffitt and rake boards and then see how much or how little overhanging of shingles I have on this side of the roof… I may end up having to trim and/or replace some of the shingles along this rake edge.

Lessons learned. Do things in the proper order (i.e. replace fascia/rake boards and soffit first if need be, THEN re-shingle). As well, do it yourselfers, you may want to reconsider! I saved alot of money (cost: $2500 for materials and hired help vs $5000 not including any of the rake board/soffir work that ended up needing doing). But also had alot of headaches along the way. Plus it was/is damn hard, HOT work. Kudos to all the professonals out there. We did it when it was 35 degrees Celsius (or 95 F) in the shade; who knows what it was in the direct sunlight on the top of a roof…that was almost TOO hot. We had to work backwards so as to not walk on any of the newly laid shingles…otherwise they would “smudge” (that is the only word I can think of to use to describe it…it was like a hot knife through butter sometimes)…Anyway, if in the end you do still decide to take on replacing your own roof, do your research first (presumeably, if your on this site, that is exactly what you are doing). Plus there’s the fact that if years down the road I find something wrong I have only myself to blame. Truth be told, I think next time I would hire the professionals. Less headaches and worry.

Thanks to those who responded to my initial questions and to all the regulars on this site. I’ve learned lots. Much appreciated! Gotta run.