Hello, nine months ago I had an entire roof system installed on my how. A few weeks back I had to call the roofer due to a leak around my fire place chimney.
The plaster ceiling sustained a little bit of damage. It now sags slightly. The bottom line is the roofer fixed it with a line of caulk on top of flashing.
At $8500.00 this doesn’t seem right. I have done the research and believe the correct method to installing flashing is mortar the chimney with the flashing in the inserted in the cut out area.
I am uploading a photo and would appreciate any opinions. I am in disbelief the company would do this. Any recommendations are appreciated.
Can’t really tell what going on from that pic.
High quality caulk is acceptable in lieu of mortar for this application.
I replaced the photo with the full view. Thank you.
I am still unclear about chimneys regarding grinding a slot. If mortar is removed why not take the small extra effort and replenish with like materials. Caulk will fail and mortar certainly last much longer.
It looks like they just used common plastic cement (tar) and not a quality caulk.
The flashing for a masonry chimney like yours is supposed to be a 2 piece flashing, Apron & step flashings with a separate counter flashing.
What you have looks like a fairly common improperly designed and installed flashing.
Thank you. Being a newbie I’m only able to upload one photo. It’s frustrating to the layman, as it’s too complex looking. Two sides of the chimney have the type of flashing as in the photo. The opposite two sides do have flashing that steps down the angles. There are nails in the center of a couple.
Again, thank you.
If you want your chimney counter flashing to be done with mortar (like materials), then it is best to hire a chimney specialist to do the work; however, it can get expensive.
You can save money by using a superior caulk as “Axium” has stated and have the chimney work included with your re-roof proposal.
I do many counter flashing installs using sealant/caulk on my re-roofs. I am also detailed and present clean sealant lines by using duct tape (top and bottom) and then smoothing out the sealant with a plastic spatula.
IMO…the chimney sealant in the image above may be functional, but is truly unappealing.
Thank you for the feedback. Isn’t it unusual though for flashing to leak 9 months after the work is finished?
A sealant job like that can drain in at the top of the sealant line (if there is a break) and then weep behind and under the counter flashing and down the chimney wall (brick wall).