Flashing on re-roof of Stucco home

I am hiring a contractor to re-roof my stucco home with asphalt shingles. The main reason for the re-roof is that we have leaks and some may be caused by the lack of flashing. The contractors have recommended very different approaches to handling flashing around the chimney and where the roof meets the stucco wall. The first approach is to remove some of the existing stucco, put up flashing, and re-stucco over the flashing. This is more invasive, but I have heard that it is long lasting. The second approach is to leave the stucco as is and install flashing on top of the stucco and caulk around the flashing/stucco seams. This is less invasive and less costly, but I have heard this described as a “temporary” fix.

My questions:

  1. is the second approach (flashing on top of the stucco) really temporary? How long should this last?
  2. the contractor recommending the second approach counters that it is a better way because cutting into the stucco on a 100 year old house can cause more problems, such as degrading the original stucco.
  3. will they both prevent leaks equally as well?
  4. Are there any additional advantages or disadvantages of these approaches that I should consider?

Thanks.

I would be cutting back the stucco IMO its the only real fix to that problem. Sure the other way might not leak but I wouldnt feel comfortable leaving a house like that.

Remove the stucco as needed, install new flashings.
This is the best way to go.

Using a flashing that will be reusable (heavier and larger than usual) for the next roof or two would be ideal…

Caulk for counter flashing won’t work.

putting counter flashing with a gum lip over stucco does work…

Solution= Cut stucco,4" up from shingles(1st)remove old roof,and install drip cap behind stucco(1st)install (tip in top under drip cap)cca treated 2x4 ,install step flashing,and wrap 2x4 with aluminum coil stock in whatever color to counter flash steps…That is how I handle those problems.If done correctly,no caulk required. :wink:

jwools do you have a picture of this method?

I have a pic in the gallery of Diamond job.It is t-111 siding,that i used the same approach,but no up close pics.
I am trying to get a comp. repaired that had a ton of pics stored on,but it crashed.
If your roofer can read,show him this post,and he will be able to understand. :stuck_out_tongue:
OOOps .Sorry Aroofing, I did not realize you were not the H.O.,lol
Wish I could be of more help.I will draw it one paper ,take a pic,and upload it here for you… :roll:

I follow ya, and this is a very very good idea. Beware the treated lumber though. Can’t get CCA in my area anymore, and ACQ will eat up aluminum. Have to use copper.

I would still put a bead of geocell where stucco meets drip cap. :mrgreen:

If you use I&W,or paper between 2x and aluminum,it will be fine.That is a fact,just can’t have metal in direct contact with treated…Why would you use caulk if there is a drip cap installed?

i just about to start a 2 storey re-roof with the same dilema. Its a corrugate iron roof thats going to asphalt shingles, ive basically told him that i recommend cutting back the stucco, and reflashing aprons and steps. I also told him there is a cheaper option that will work, but wont look as good and thats chasing in a flashing over the exsisting stucco. He hasnt made up his mind yet. They both work, but ones a little more costly and looks better that the other. :mrgreen: