IÃ¢â‚¬â„¢ve got 3 areas of roof that meet vertical walls (above dining room 12 ft;at a higher living room/staircase roof 25 ft; and then above garage below bedroom 17 ft). Is that where flashing goes? What type (step, counter, other) and gauge should be used? Is it common practice for the contract to state that theyÃ¢â‚¬â„¢ll be replaced after inspection by contractor and approval by homeowner? And what would I look for? Pitting? Warped, Rust?
You must either have valley’s or wall flashing. No matter what I replace the valley metal, and if the step flashing is bad replace that along with dormer flashing. Things to look for are rust and corosion.
Most commonly the only time I see rusted through step flashing is on homes 100+ years old. 26 guage is the minumal thickness for the valley metal but don’t what what the other flashing minumal is.
I replace all metal on the roof. Not just what looks good. I dont trust it if its been there. Furthermore if the flashing is full of holes i wont chance it.
Roof to wall flashing goes there unless youre talking on the shingle ends, then a step flashing should be used. Sometimes a counterflashing if youre not able to get a watertight seal under siding. I like .032 aluminum in a color to match the decor.
Flashingclick for imagephotos
if the metal in your walls is good ( no major rust ) reuse it.
it will last the life of a second and third roof.
if it was not put in well to begin with and is going to cause future problems , then your going to have to replace it.
you have to trust your roofer with that determination.
As a general rule flashing or something like it is used any place there is a roof transition. I don’t mess around with garbage aluminum or galvanized, I only use copper. The weight depends on the application but again as a general rule we deal with 16 and 20oz.
Is it common practice for the contract to state that theyÃ¢â‚¬â„¢ll be replaced after inspection by contractor and approval by homeowner?
Yes. While most times a roofing contractor has a good idea before they begin the job there is always the X-factor. Also many contractors will give the lowest number they can to get the job and then have “add-ons” later. I’ve lost jobs because I always give the full number as close as I am able in my proposals but that’s just how I like to do business. I don’t like to hit people with “suprises”.
Is it common practice for the contract to state that theyÃ¢â‚¬â„¢ll be replaced after inspection by contractor and approval by homeowner? And what would I look for? Pitting? Warped, Rust?
Pretty much a no brainer. Bad metal is bad metal and you will be able to tell on close inspection if it is in need of replacement or not.
*edit As stated above 26ga. galvanized was standard when I worked down south. 032. Aluminum seems a bit excessive to me and I think you could go with a lower number if you’re inclined to use aluminum but I see nothing wrong with .032 either.