Flat roof issue

I have a question for you flat guys. A TPO job I did recently has an issue. The TPO flashing piece that is against the parapet has water trapped in it. when we tore off, we removed copper flashing from the wall, that was through-wall flashing. We did this per instructions of roof consultant. There are no cold welds that I can find, termination bar has water cutoff behind it, top is caulked, And counter flashing above it. Only thing I can come up with is that water is getting into the masonry wall and being let out under TPO by old copper in the wall. Only solution I can come up with is Coping the entire length of parapet.

Anyone seen this type of problem before or have any other solutions to offer?

Masonry leaks quite often.

i would try cool sealin the wall first.
and doulble check caulk job. it dont take much to let
water in.

gweedo.

[quote=“shangle nailer”]I have a question for you flat guys. A TPO job I did recently has an issue. The TPO flashing piece that is against the parapet has water trapped in it. when we tore off, we removed copper flashing from the wall, that was through-wall flashing. We did this per instructions of roof consultant. There are no cold welds that I can find, termination bar has water cutoff behind it, top is caulked, And counter flashing above it. Only thing I can come up with is that water is getting into the masonry wall and being let out under TPO by old copper in the wall. Only solution I can come up with is Coping the entire length of parapet.

Anyone seen this type of problem before or have any other solutions to offer?[/quote]

Yep, see it all the time.

Is it brick-veneer, double-wythe brick, CMU, tilt-wall panel, or what?

If it is brick-masonry you will likely have to tuckpoint/seal all voids in wall surface (quite possibly both sides, but that depends on wall construction) and coat with an elastomeric coating. The coating should stop any capillary action and will seal the wall from vapor drive both in AND out of the wall. Since the wall will be sealed, you will then have to install coping along top to ensure water does not enter the wall cavity.

However, before you do that I would make sure it wasn’t a roof related issue. Like, was the water trapped between the roof membrane and base flashing? Did you caulk all of your field-cut seams?

Anyway, how old is the building/wall? Was there any efflorescence visible? If it uses brick, what kind of brick; common, solid, vitrified, etc?

As I always ask, do you have any photos?

http://www.roofing.com/images/topics/8484/img_1253987494.jpghttp://www.roofing.com/images/topics/8484/img_1253987532.jpg

Unfortunetaly these are the best 2 pictures I have of the wall itself. I didn’t have my camera with me when I saw this yesterday. I believe it is 8" block inside and brick on the outside. Building is close to 60 years old. As you can see it looks like someone has done some repairs on the wall before.

"However, before you do that I would make sure it wasn’t a roof related issue. Like, was the water trapped between the roof membrane and base flashing? Did you caulk all of your field-cut seams? "

Not sure I follow these questions, but I’ll try. The roof membrane runs up the wall 2" at the bottom and is then mechanically fastened to the wall. Flashing piece is glued to wall about 8-10" above roof, with a 5" lap onto the roof. The water appears to be trapped between these two layers, and is accumulated at the low point (right behind the drain) next to the parapet. I can see the flashing bulging and hear the water sloshing around in there. Only Caulking on roof is at term bar, TPO roof all seams welded.

Here is another bit of info. Roof in this area has been completed for about a month or so, no problems or leaks in the building to speak of. Versico inspector came out on thursday, found a few small issues, nothing major. He did not notice this issue. Thursday night we had a 2" deluge of rain (same storm tinner speaks of on “bad choice”). I went there friday to do a couple things and noticed it then. I know it takes a driving rain to get into masonry and we certainly had that. I have to believe if this issue was apparent before thursday night inspector would have noticed it.

We have had some significant rain since the roof has been completed, but nothing like the downpour of the other night.

Pump up sprayer and some Seal-crete. You can buy it at lowes or hardware. Spray it on, it dries clear, goes on purple. It’ll solve the problem.

For how long?

[quote=“shangle nailer”]

For how long?[/quote]

Which wall is it that leaks? Is it the lower parapet, or the brick-masonry wall with the cracked and open mortar joints?

As for coatings, you can use something like Thoroseal, or you can even go with something like Firestone AcyriTop (i think that’s what it is called) and have it tinted at the paint store.

Here is a project I was involved with that included low-sloped roof replacement, coating of brick-masonry, and replacement of old HVAC units:

Before:

After:

Cerb, it is the lower parapet. But I’m not convinced the others won’t leak too. Whatever solution we decide on it should be done to the whole building I think.

It will last at least 6yrs, because I have some that have been on that long. It comes with a 5yr guarantee. It’s one of the best I’ve used.

Cost is around $12 a gallon. It’s inexpensive and it works. Hose it on and don’t worry about it getting on your product.

[quote=“rooferama”]It will last at least 6yrs, because I have some that have been on that long. It comes with a 5yr guarantee. It’s one of the best I’ve used.

Cost is around $12 a gallon. It’s inexpensive and it works. Hose it on and don’t worry about it getting on your product.[/quote]

Those silicone spray on “waterproofing” agents are nice if you have capillary action causing water to weep through; kind of like using white-wash/Kilz on the inside surface of a basement wall. However, if you are really looking for a waterproofing agent that will stop water penetration in your masonry wall you need to coat it with an elastomeric. JMHO

Any kind of coatings or spray-on sealants will only prove to be a maintenance item.

The best approach would be to run the membrane up and over parapet wall, and cap off with metal.

Then, you never have to worry about the inside of the wall absorbing moisture and wicking to roof. Make sure the same condition doesn’t exist on the OTHER side of the wall, as it could create the same problem.

[quote=“Premium Roof Services”]Any kind of coatings or spray-on sealants will only prove to be a maintenance item.

The best approach would be to run the membrane up and over parapet wall, and cap off with metal.

Then, you never have to worry about the inside of the wall absorbing moisture and wicking to roof. Make sure the same condition doesn’t exist on the OTHER side of the wall, as it could create the same problem.[/quote]

i concur.

also, did you use the same TPO on the walls, as you did on the bottom?

[quote=“Premium Roof Services”]Any kind of coatings or spray-on sealants will only prove to be a maintenance item.

The best approach would be to run the membrane up and over parapet wall, and cap off with metal.

Then, you never have to worry about the inside of the wall absorbing moisture and wicking to roof. Make sure the same condition doesn’t exist on the OTHER side of the wall, as it could create the same problem.[/quote]

Did you get a look at the walls? Yeah, the 4’ parapet I would have taken over the wall and capped with a metal coping. But there is another wall that is at least 7’ tall and you can’t tell whether it is a tall parapet or an adjoining wall with a soffit, etc. So, like I was saying, where you have exposed masonry on inside of walls if it is leaking you can seal it with an elastomeric coating like in the photos I provided. Sure, it would be nice if you could flash and install new coping on every wall, but sometimes you have to explore alternative methods.

You should absolutely flash the entire wall,terminate it on the outside and the cap it if if the client is worried about the appearance from the street.