Framing question

Having an argument with someone need some help.

Built an outdoor kitchen. Now time to make the cover (gable roof) for it. What is the longest run I can make on the sides between support beams. (using 6x6).

The patio cover is a simple 22’ x 12’ rectangle with exposed rafters and a 6:12 gable roof.

Doubled 12x12 should support 12-14’ span.
I would do that with 45 degree braces on each side which shortens the actual span.

[quote=“tinner666”]Doubled 12x12 should support 12-14’ span.
I would do that with 45 degree braces on each side which shortens the actual span.[/quote]

support beams every 12’ with 45 degree braces was my plan. HOWEVER… the homeowner doesnt want a support beam in the middle of one side… on the 22’ side. So to make him 100% happy, I need to find a way to make a 22’ run without any support beams.

Steel I beam is the only thing I can think of to go that length.

Dammit Jim, I’m a roofer, not a carpenter!

6-8" I-beam or steel truss. I don’t think a mirco lam will work.

Just to clarify, that 22’ run will, or will not have the rafters sitting on it?

yes it will. the rafters will come off of the 22" length. the 12" run will be the open end of the gable.

Thinking about this, you better worry about ‘point-loading’. A 6x6 probably won’t be able to handle the load. And, by the same token, how big and deep will the footers be at the point loads? They also enter into the equation.

You’re going to need this project ‘engineered’. Have the HO get an engineer to spec it and sign off on it. It’s getting past my expertise now on what will or won’t pass an inspection and hold up.

I’ve an idea. Let me see if I can draw it in paint. Still can’t use my Pro Sketchup.

yea, i thought about going to a larger support beam once we started talking about steel. i may do steel support beams, then brock or rock around them for cosmetics. I can bury the footers as deep as I want.

Some one here likes “Star Trek”…hint War goddest

Don’t laugh too hard at my drawing! Please!!

Side view of the 22". Give me a call so I can explain. I can’t express it well with typing. Or I’ll call you.

The ‘ends’ of this can be 3’ long with, or without a brace to make the span 16’, for instance.
They can be longer, closed, fully open, or ‘braced’ as drawn.
They could be 4’ long too, or whatever.

Partial walls like that could be used to hang utensils, back the grill against, or wind barriers, etc. Or a couple of cabinets, or closets could be there, as an idea.

thanks for the phone call Tinner. it gave me a couple of new ideas!

here is the mock up of the kitchen/outdoor living area.

we are doing decorative rock overlay (real rock… you can see the pile of it next to the chair on the right) and granite countertops as I type this. the fireplace will have a clay chimney riser that will have to go thru the middle of the roof. ive never flashed just a standard clay (basically just a clay rectangle) so i gotta figure out how to do that too.

plan on starting the cover for this thing sometime in the next couple of weeks. i’ll keep this thread updated.

You know, I haven’t given any thought to overhang. I assume 24" minimum on all sides. Any less would allow too much rain on the patio and prevent it’s use on warm rainy days.

Better take that into account with post positioning and spans. Using 2x12 like we were talking about, you could have a post, 2’ of brace, and a 2’ canterlever past the brace.

Just food for thought.

Yea. I have it designed with a foot of overhang right now, but am considering lowering the pitch and adding a foot. May even put a run of gutters on it too.

just saw this post, you are in my wheelhouse.
You can surely run that span with that size roof on some LVLs. However, I would make no attempt to size them yourself, then you are putting your ass on the line with something you don’t know about. Most lumber yards around here have engineering calculator software that you can plug the parameters into and tell you what size you need. If you buy the lumber from them they are happy to figure it up for you, and will give you a printout of the calculations. The other thing you can do is hire a structural engineer for a couple hundred bucks. But thats probably not neccesary for what you have there.
I have hung 28 foot 2x12 rafters on a quadruple 18" LVL ridge that spanned 24 feet under a slate roof. I’m sure you can do it with LVLs. Steel would work too, but it will be hard to set.

Thanks shingle. Yea, I thought about an engineer, but the lumber yard calculator is what I’m likely gonna do if I can’t talk him into the 6 post.

Appreciate all the replies guys.

well… minor updates.

the weather has been nice enough lately to start working on it again. got a lot of the rock installed, and the granite cut… just waiting to finish the rock before install. then finishing up the small details.

and im 99% sure i got him talked into a 6 post, but possibly making the roof a little larger, and lower pitch.

pics of the rock facing we are putting on: