Froze my butt off on this one

mechanically fastened .060 EPDM after removing 2 feet of snow and 12 inches of ice paid for with federal grant money for the elderly

didyou mechancally fasten that epdm to particle board??? where is the 3 foot bar around the perimeter?

it is fastened around the perimiter. it is covered by cover tape.

roofboss, arent there condensation issues, especially with non-adhered systems, that will end up damaging that type of deck? Am I imagining things?

ok heres whats going to happen to this roof.i am speaking with 30 yrs of epdm experience. yes 30. when we used wood for battenstrips and everything was stripped in with cured epdm not neoprine.this roof is going to sweat(condenstate) under the rubber.this will subject that particle board deck to an on slaught of moisture.i give it 30 months before you have fasteners popping thru your membrane.just for information purposes i am a firestone master company installed 77,000 sq’s of epdm last yr.i am also a gold certified carlisle contractor.i know rubber.its my forte.from your photos i see no fastening around the vent pipe,or the chimney? and what type of securement did you use at the angle change by the shingles? its required. where is the perimeter fastened?all i see from the photos are the 3 bars going across the sheet.

it is secured around chimney & around around the outside edges. i also have epdm roofs with this type of deck in my climate that are over 5 years with no problems yet. as for “picture framing” this roof…it is only 12 feet wide. if i did that the batten bars would be in the middle practically. the perimeter is mechanically fasted with galvanized drip edge that is screwed down and taped in. also like i said…it is a fed. grant that paid for the roof. how much do you think they pay? what would you charge for this roof? And i will give you guys that im not 1000% great at mech. fastening the system. 99% of my jobs are fully adhered. but it was 10 deg. outside and it has been forever, and the forcast calls for it to continue forever. so this is the way i decided to do it so we could eat :? as for the condensation…its over a porch…its not a heated space.

i had a feeling i would get bashed if i posted any pics…haha…fire away

Looks good to me M. My favorite thing to say is dont shoot the salesman.

well the guy from florida thinks it looks great.


It aint cuz you posted pics. a thermal break would save your condensation issues.

the condensation will be from above heat not below heat.rubber sweats.

i still dont think that screws will back out because the osb is over 3/4 tounge & groove and i only used it for a smooth substate. it is put down with ring shanks and 3" screws & the battons & drip are put on with 3" screws. hind sight is 20/20…so what you are saying is I should always use recovery board (1/2" insulation board) for a smooth substrate? what if it is fully adhered?

yes, you should always use recover board or iso, attached with apropiate length #12 ( or # 14 for UL90) roofing screws and 3" insulation plates. all your mech. fastening should always be made with #14 (or #15 for UL90) screws and either batten bar or 2" barbed plates. As for fully adhering with recover board or iso, use at least 16 fasteners per 4 X 8 board and as long as the iso is felt faced then you can glue to it. You never want to glue to plywood.

condensation from above would condense on top of the sheet, yay or nay?

Hi Aaron,

If the edpm is adhered the moisture will not get to the underside of the edpm. I think this is what roofboss is referring to.


Have never seen a problem, where edpm is adhered to plywood.

I have never seen it, either, but our mutual friend, Mike in OH has brought it to my atteention, but I think it was only with ballasted or MF.

actually i watched a few training dvd’s recently and they all said to adhere to osb on residential. i think they were from diamond.

It look like you did a good job. but was all that nessasary?

was all what nec. the topic itself? i was just bored.