Gable end drip edge and aluminum wrap detail w/Pics

I need a whole new roof but this one detail has me confused. It’s the area where the barge? rafter 2x6 and the aluminum wrap meets the shingles. It runs the gable end from the ridge to the eave.(see pics) One guy suggested doing nothing, leaving it as is, no drip edge, overlapping the shingles by an inch or so and using regular felt paper. Another suggested a 12" or so strip of ice and water shield extending from the roof deck onto the aluminum trim, plus using a drip edge. A third suggested cutting off the top edge of the aluminum or bending it over the top, then installing a drip edge.
It appears the roof was done before the siding and maybe that is why the shingles are almost flush with this aluminum edge in some areas - I thought there was supposed to be a slight overhang. There is overhang in the one picture but that is a replaced shingle patched in.
Even if it all has to be replaced, I would rather do that than trying to “make it work” with what I have if it could be better.
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t style drip should work with what you have and i would go with 6 feet of ice and water. Yes i know some guys dont beileve in it but ice does back up and well i would rather be safe than sorry. Check your local code it might require it at least 36 inches.

I disagree. Unfortunately, the normal sized T-Style, aka ODE, Overhanging Drip Edge Metal will not attach properly to the fascia aluminum that is bent out. Also, it will not allow enough of the top portion of the metal to come far enough inwards to the deck sheathing to be nailed. It would have to probably be nailed at the top edge of the fascia board, which would crack.

If the contractor used a small putty knife to open up the entire closed hem enough to snug it up to the metal from the fascia, it just might go on smoothly, but wil probably look wavy and bent.

An alternate metal style like a siding J-Channel, called a re-roof edge metal could cover the extended piece.

I usually leave that decision up to the home owner after explaining the potential pitfalls of the options available.

Ed

make your own drip edge, or better still…
up-grade the install by fabricating a new rake fascia/ drip edge detail, using PVC coated aluminum…
many colors, stronger and looks great

Score the bend with a straight blade and eliminate the angle.

ding ding… theres the winner…

then use f5 drip edge.

Duh!!!

Why didn’t I think of that.

Good Solution.

Ed

I appreciated the prior input on this thread and apologize that I didn’t post back. I still have not replaced my roof. I liked the idea of scoring and removing the aluminum projection and using an F5 or similar drip edge. I did however notice a problem with the drawing that I originally provided.
If you look at this photo at the roof edge just above the chimney, you can see the shingles drop slightly starting about 2" in from the edge:

I originally thought the top of the plywood decking was even with the top of the 2x6 rake board but the rake board is @ 1/4" lower. It will be even worse when I replace the 3/8" plywood with 1/2" This seems like it was done wrong from the beginning.

What would be a good solution?

  1. Putting drip edge on as is would make the drop more gradual, but I don’t think it would look good.
  2. I could put some type of spacer on top of the 2x6 that the F5 drip sits on. Not sure what I would use and that seems like a bandaid solution.
  3. Running the plywood over the rake board seemed like a good idea, but the rake board is slightly higher than the roof truss so the whole edge would be raised up a bit.
    http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee426/mjzraz/rake1.png

Yeah it’s in bad shape.

i would cut 2 1/2 inch wide strips of 1/4 inch sheeting to fill the gap.(1/2 inch and 3/8 would be too thick)

then install a 1x2 on the facial.(actual 3/4 x 1 1/2)

Then install eve drip metal.

Is this facia in Tennessee? Thats how its done there- no drip edge. If that 1/2" kick out is cut off- oil canning will be the next post.

Use 8" drip edge- which would hook around facia “kick out”, and span to the plywood.

2x6 doesn’t look low in the photos, maybe it is, and shimming with a starter shingle would cure the low parts.

Attaching facia should be easy- there is solid nailing 3" behind sheathing/ pressboard.

[quote=“roof-lover”]i would cut 2 1/2 inch wide strips of 1/4 inch sheeting to fill the gap.(1/2 inch and 3/8 would be too thick)

then install a 1x2 on the facial.(actual 3/4 x 1 1/2)

Then install eve drip metal.[/quote]

Thanks I understand everything but the 1x2 on the fascia? Sounds interesting. I’m replacing the aluminum fascia wrap all around and behind the gutters some because it’s rotted behind, some because it’s not neatly done and some because it’s cracked.

I keep coming back to the idea of running the sheathing up to but not over the 2x6 rake trim board. Then replacing the aluminum wrap with an “L” not having the lip projecting out under the shingle edge.
Then I would use a spacer like you said a strip of 1/4" ply or Ripped PVC trim over the 2x6 to get it in the same plane as the sheathing. Over this I would run a strip of ice and water followed by a wide F style drip edge. This will overlap the “L” wrap on the rake trim board.

[quote=“roofcheck”]Is this facia in Tennessee? Thats how its done there- no drip edge. If that 1/2" kick out is cut off- oil canning will be the next post.

Use 8" drip edge- which would hook around facia “kick out”, and span to the plywood.

2x6 doesn’t look low in the photos, maybe it is, and shimming with a starter shingle would cure the low parts.

Attaching facia should be easy- there is solid nailing 3" behind sheathing/ pressboard.[/quote]

It’s in MD south of Baltimore. I plan on replacing the fascia trim, so yes, effectively eliminating the kick out. I have a guy with a 10’ brake making me the replacement wrap. Not sure if he’s made drip edge before. I imagine f style is harder to custom make on a brake.
I agree its hard from the pics to see the 2x6 lower than the surface of the sheathing, but I am also replacing the sheathing with 15/32 or 19/32 which will make the 2x6 even lower.

If you are determned to replace all the fascia metal, then the 1x2 is not needed.

but if you didnt want to replace that fascia metal on the rakes(probably dont need to…)
you could install 1x2 by butting it to the bottem of the “stick out” and then the eve drip will work properly.