Gutter fastening

I will be hanging aluminum K style gutters, sliding them up under the aluminum drip. That will prevent me from hooking the hangers over the back side of the gutter.

1: Is it permissible to place the hanger against the drip and screw it in, sandwiching the gutter between the drip and the fascia?

2: Will applying sealant at the screw penetration effectively prevent unwanted ingress of water?

3: This method will hold the aluminum fascia trim captive against the fascia board, limiting it’s ability to “float”; will that cause expansion/contraction issues?

4: Would it be prudent to ensure that the screws hit the rafter tails (24" OC) and not just the fascia board?

  1. How much did you overhang your shingles? If there is enough overhang I would not bother with sliding them under the drip edge.

  2. No sealing the gutter screws is not necessary.

  3. No issue with the fascia, if it were 99% of houses would be having the same issue.

  4. It depends what have for fascia. It it is only a 1" fascia board then yes I would recommend hitting the rafters, if its 1 1/2 then no I wouldn’t bother.

They make clipless hangers. If you install clipped hangers that way it will bulge out the front of the eavestrough.

The clipless hangers will work and go behind the drip edge.
The gutter will be pitched towards the downspout so the clips will probably drop lower on each run.
If the hangers are totally exposed a counter drip would be ideal.
It depends on how the fascia is attached, if a nail gun was used to hang it I would recomend hitting some rafters.

Hi and thanks for the replies.

IslandRoofing said “How much did you overhang your shingles? If there is enough overhang I would not bother with sliding them under the drip edge.”

Unfortunately I installed the starter and first course flush with the drip edge, per the directions on the shingle wrapper. Part way through the job I became squeamish about that and installed the remainder with a small overhang, but nowhere near the amount that I see recommended here. I don’t like how the runoff wraps around.

Just for fun I took a piece of shingle and made a temporary extension of 1 1/2". During torrential rains the water wraps around that piece of shingle and runs uphill that inch and a half on the underside until it hits the fascia. It’s amazing how it does not want to let go. The roof is only 4/12 so I suppose that is part of it.

So, I’ll have to tuck it under the drip and exchange the hangers for the clipless variety.

Again, thanks!

Turbo goat. The roofing shingle should have a 3/4" overhang. Never run your shingle flush with the drip edge. I would have to see the wrapper to believe this was actually recommended. Don’t screw into your drip edge. Counter flash drip edge into the rain gutter when possible. If you install your rain gutter correctly, most people don’t, you will start high and have a gradual decline toward where your downspout is to be. At some point, depending on the length of the run you will not be able to overhang the drip edge into the rain gutter. 2" drip edge is building code in California, I am sure some states still use 1 1/2.

IF you MUST have rain gutters, then spend the extra and get seamless installed. They last longer, less issues down the road, and if you are going this route then a professional is installing, rather than a novice home owner. Just my advice.

Hi ExpertRoofer, I’m surprised too, given the apparent industry-wide general consensus… but here it is, described in step 5:

http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:q27MJbu2CI0J:www.owenscorning.com/NetworkShare/Roofing/10003280-Oakridge-Install-Instructions.pdf+&cd=3&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us

I used Oakridge shingles; their Duration shingles bear similar instructions.

Mike

WOW! Good Job Turbo, if I hadn’t seen it I wouldn’t believe it. I went to Owens Corning site and it states 3/4 inch overhang for their starter stripes, then flush with shingle. Very strange, but interesting!

Shingle overhang is a regional thing. When I worked in Florida it was against code to overhang your shingles at all. I found that out the time an inspector failed my roof for it and I then had to trim them all back (I was not a happy person). Somewhere it usually says in small print “local codes take precedence” or something to that extent. But yeah I agree that 1/2" to 3/4" overhang is ideal.