Had my roof re-shingled

We had our roof replaced on Friday, we live in R.I. so the temp was in the high 80s. I’m having an issue with how some things look. There is a large space At the top and bottom of the valley I would say at least an inch at the top. Also, the shingles don’t lay flat in some areas. It’s very noticeable near the edge of the roof, you can actually push down on some areas. It “seems” the drip edge is not laying flat on the deck. The drip edge is about 6" wide. It was only nailed at the edge. They’re saying the shingles will settle which I would understand if the shingles had been installed in cooler weather. In regard to the valley, they said it was expected because the shingles are thick. We used Timberline HDZ architectural shingles. The old roof was stripped, StormGuard 36″ Film-Surfaced Peel and Stock roof leak barrier, and GAF Felt Buster synthetic adhesive felt were used. Old shingles were removed.
The salesman came on Saturday and sent pictures to his boss. I want a “roof” guy, not just a salesman to look at this. What should I say to him about this? I’ve attached 2 pics and a short video. What I’d like to know is, this all normal or should I make a fuss about it? – homeowner

Post pictures of the areas that concern you.

Uploading: valley:low.jpg…

How old is the house? i see what you’re looking at. Shingles are going to form to whatever is under them. It’s not finish carpentry. I see the ridge shingle at the top of the valley. I split the headlap to form to the ridge. Give it some time, it will mold itself. It’s got some ups and downs. I see some sagging at the eave, but I’m not sure what the decking is at those points. Could be some decking higher than the fascia.
Yankees do things different than Texans. We run starter up the valley to make a finished look. This one is Yankee cut. Lead chimney flashing. Don’t see that in Texas unless it’s stone. It’s hard to beat up on a guy when I don’t know what the decking is. I would give it a few weeks and see if it lays flat. It might have been sitting on a stacked pallet for a while. You never know. Any roofer with a soul will come back if you have an issue.
The hump to the right, in the valley is the shingles run under the opposing side. We use the term California cut for this valley. It is actually the preferred method for most laminate shingles. Looks like they laced the bottom shingles. Not sure whats happening there. It might take some time to lay down, but it can be pressed down.
Size of that fascia, I’d say this is an old home.


Thanks for the reply. House was built in 1955. The deck is tongue and groove planking, I think 1x6’s.

When did a California valley become the preferred method?

Cali valleys are a shortcut used by roofers more concerned with speed than quality.

Around here a cali valley is a (reliable) sign of poor workmanship.

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Early 2k’s i thought the certified contractor would sell jobs. I read all the crap, paid the fee to realize my clients didnt care. The biggest hoser in the county had the same certs i had and the worst reputation. I had laced laminates as they got thinner. BYRD shingles dropped the 340# per sq by eliminating organics. We never laced them because they would crack on a hot day. GAF along with ARMA,( if im not mistaken) frowned on weaving or lacing laminates. Ive just thought it made good sense. It has an ugly appearance and is heck to repair.
ELK had the Whole new animal seminars in the 90’s. Their preferred valley was the closed cut, or california cut. They did not back lacing or weaving.
Hey, i say if you have success with weaving, who am i to tell you not to. Seems like if a contractor has an issue, clients will crucify us with a detail from the instructions on the bag.
Axiom. I wasnt trying to be offensive. I enjoy yours and most comments ( minus the nail shiner).

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I saw the 1x10 fascia and I knew it was probably older. Those plank decking homes can have some ups and downs. Shiplap and T&G both can be smooth when installed, but tend to warp more than the plywoods and OSB’s of today. For some reason, new shingles make you forget that it probably had some of those dips before the new roof. I still would give a couple of weeks to see if it settles. I’ll make this statement and it’s been my experience that I’m probably correct. Your contractor didn’t have a detail man to look at the project. $10 worth of rattle can paint makes a world of difference when matching the galvanized plumbing vents to the roof. I have custom matched latex paint for all our roofs. Latex paint will last 15yrs without losing the color, vs the rattle can alkyd paint.

Thanks for all the info. I’m having the building inspector come by and check things out.

I was able to get 2 shots of the flashing today. Don’t think it should look like this. They even missed one the joints from the previous roof job.

Rooferama, so you are using a paint brush
Or you can still use the spray can?
I’d say i am an expert at painting the plumbing stacks without getting it on the shingles and without masking it off.
But ive seen the paint fail quick sometimes.
And never even lasting 5 years really.
I want to do better.

For black, grill paint works well.

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Thank you!
That helps me greatly, because the only two colors i use are black and rustoleum leather brown.

Absolutely. Paint brush with a quart of paint. I took the weathered bronze side of a tin shingle, Barkwood, and shakewood. Went to Sherwin Williams and they matched it, in a Satin exterior. I buy it by the gallon and put it into small quarts to take on the roof. I’ve been doing this since 2009. On my blacks, I buy flat exterior latex. My opinion, flat black looks so much better than satin.

By doing this, you can drive by any of my projects and the paint still looks as good as the day we put it on.
If we get in a bind, I will substitute a rattle can, but I don’t like too. I never leave a home without painting every penetration on the roof.


Don’t get why they weaved the first 2 courses the cut or pointed out with the rest of the valley. Not a fan of weaving the valley’s think it looks like hell