How To Flash This Rake to Roof Joint

I have another flashing Q re: these rake boards that die into the roof. Two are already cut back to create an airspace between the botom of the board and the shingles. One is not. The 1x2 will be removed, the shingles cut back even with the face-of-the-rake, and galvalume 2x2 with a kick will be installed.

I’m wondering though if this joint needs a sort of extended-height step-flashing to cover the face of the rake board. I made a paper template for one, but didn’t have the camera with me.

They don’t go through the roof, oddly enough. Not sure where the last rafter is in relation to the rake board either. I plan on cutting the tails back enough to ensure that there is still an adequate air space with the new shingles (which are thicker) so the end grain doesn’t soak up water. I’m thinking of removing the short piece of rake from photo #3 to have a closer look at the joint. It would make trimming back the tail much easier.

What do you suggest?

None needed ‘usually’. The ‘under’ side gets done first. ‘Usually’, there is enough gap in the deck on the other side so the last shingle can be worked under the rafter, and over the ridge.
Then, roof the other side normally.
Even if it won’t go over, it should fit under there well enough that at least 3-4" of it will go over the ridge with the rest of getting cut to fit.
It may be necessary to use a step flashing behind the rafter, on top of the last ‘cut to fit shinlge’, and covered by the roof cap.
Hard to say from here.

[quote=“tinner666”]It may be necessary to use a step flashing behind the rafter, on top of the last ‘cut to fit shinlge’, and covered by the roof cap.


We have soooo many of these situations here that leak. The roofs I look at that are 15+ years old almost never have the board cut back off of the deck a comfy 1 inch.

Every re-roof we see like this we install a 6x6 wall flashing on the fascia board and bend back a 1/4" caulk lip at the top. If there is a 1x2 drip strip then we pry it back a bit to push the wall flashing up behind it. Over extend, cut in the angle, and bend over the ridge. I am not the biggest fan of “caulk” as it becomes a maintenance item but a quality butyl will last and I have not had a call-back to speak of.

I did remove the fascia board from photo #3, the 3/8" soffit panel and striped the roof down to the decking. Found a 3 x 6 in area where the end of the fascia had been ‘ground’ into the shingles, causing a leak which rotted the decking. At first, I thought it was rather minor, but then my hammer went through it :shock: So I cut back the ply & replaced it.

I trimmed the end of the board so that the dbl sections of 4 shingles would slide under it. Didn’t want to make the same mistake as my earlier post. There are only two 2x4’s holding this fascia along with the roof decking. That’s it. The carpenters just ‘flew’ it out there. Needs more support. Still thinking how to do this though.

I’ll take a photo of a proposed flashing method I thought of and post it.

I covered the ply patch with a large section of P&S, stapled down the edges and covered it with 30# to shed water during the recent rains. BTW, this has been the wettest July I can remember in central Tx. 5-1/4" of rain in about a weeks time!! :shock: Unheard of. ZERO rain is usual for July here.

Incredibly humid working today though: 90° F, 68% RH, Heat Index: 101° F.

Is that open under there Bob? Can a piece of 2x6 be stood on edge under it? If so, you’re good.

Remember what I said about covering a step flashing with the end cap? This is going to take finesse and 4-5 hands!
Run all those shingles under it normally.
Place a step flashing behind the rafter. Keep in mind you’ll cover it later with the cap.
Cut a piece of 2x6, or 2x8 to fit UNDER that soffit.
Figure out how to NOT make it look added on and unsightly. It’s be almost hidden and invisible after painting.
Get a couple of hot-dipped 16’s. Start them in the rafter to line up with the 2x.
You’re going to pry that rafter up without dislodging the step flashing.
Drive the 16’s through and into that 2x block. The block will hold it up and any shingles it damages will be behind the rafter, step flashing and under the soffit. You have just eliminated future issues there.
Cover the flashing with that piece of cap.

OK. Here’s some updated photo’s.

I’ve now stripped the shingles, removed the rake board, trimmed the end back, primed & painted, reinstalled and added the 2x2 drip with a kick. I should have plenty of space between the end and the shingles. The next photo will show what’s behind (or underneath) this overhang with the soffitt ply removed.

Here the ‘backside’ of the photo above. The 2x4 laid flat goes through the side wall shown in the first pic and is nailed off to the rafters. It’s one of two that supports this overhang. The 2x4 is not sitting on the deck below it. There is enough of a gap to slide shingles all the way up.

If I understand you correctly Tinner, I can shingle this area as usual, then apply a piece of wood on top of the shingles underneath here, wedge it between the gap and nail it off. Rarely will water get under here.

Here’s a close-up of the little piece of white-ply deck you see at the end of the rake ‘point’ in photo 1. I’ve thought of cutting a wedge to the correct angles on the table saw to fit this gap and transfer some weight to the deck and rafters below covered in tar paper.

For now, I’m using a wedge cut from a 2x4.

Here’s a piece of manilla folder I cut for a flashing pattern. Not quite wide enough to span the end of the rake board, but you get the idea. I tucked it up underneath the drip and pushed it all the way into the corner. Is this what ya’ll are talking about? Should I cut the shingle where the vertical is on this flashing to tuck it under? I’ll have a better idea when I finally get up to this point with shingles.

I’ve now completely finished the front of the house!! Quite a milestone in this project. I’ll now be working on this section which is about 4 sqrs on the opposite side of the front. I’ve found one section of soft deck which will need further inspection but that’s it so far.

I think you’ll find tat you can just keep running shingles up and under that rake. The last one will get it’s top cut off, as far under as possible (behind that rake board), Then use a smaller piece of metal on top of it, under the DE. Cover the metal with the cap.

BTW, can you get that channel flashig out and install step flashing instead? If not, leave about an 1" of open area along the wall AND TAPER all the top edges back to the top of that lip.

The step flashing on facsia board we put behind the facsia board…and wrap it onto upper roof…

Me too Kage. I could been mistaken, but I think the 2x4 is going to block it.

I even like a gap on that frontside roof deck there too, at the ridge, but there’s always too many variables involved from this distance to decide which course of action I’d prefer.

in situations like that we bang 2x4 loose slip metal in and bang back on…

I’m tempted to R&R the channel flashing on this section as it’s easy to get to. However, if pulling the nail heads out of the vertical wall siding starts tearing it up then I’m inclined to leave it in place. I checked with my metal flashing supplier and they don’t have any step flashing…period. I asked about cutting and bending me some and they’ll do it for a charge. I’ll have to follow up now that I’m finally on the section where it could be used.

Here in Central Tx, I rarely see an intersection with a vert. wall done with step flashing…it’s all channel or ‘turn-back’. Guess it’s less labor to install. I don’t like the hump it imparts to the shingles. If I am able to step flash, does that mean I’ll have a continuous line of holes in the vert wall? I’ll have to slip each piece under the wall and only nail it to the wall, right?

If I’m not able to remove the existing flashing, I thought of trimming all the shingles that lay over it. If I understand you correctly, I should allow for a 1" gap of the metal to show? Then for your part two, cut off the right angle of the top edge of the shingle [like dubbing the shingle corners on metal valley], tapering it back to the ‘up-kick’ in the flashing? What angle do you suggest? What’s the advantage to doing this? [just curious]. Thanks.

Step flashing only needs to be nailed to the roof. I prefer the low, outer edge.

As for your question about dubbing the corners, …
[attachment=2]Channel Flashing (8).JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=1]Channel Flashing (9).JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=0]Channel Flashing (10).JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=1]Channel Flashing.JPG[/attachment]

I filled nail holes with Lucas gutter sealer before continuing.
[attachment=0]Channel Flashing (6).JPG[/attachment]

BTW, that brownish stain beside the metal is the trail left by the running water looking for a downward path whenever it rained.

BTW Kage, I agree with knocking the block out, but didn’t suggest it because the new roof was already on the other side.

FWIW Bob, we consider that area with the wall ‘lower’ than the opposing roof on the other side, and do it first as a rule. It lets you see and better utilize all the options that may be available there. Don’t let it worry you though, you’re doing fine so far.

Thanks for the photos Tinner, but I don’t see any ‘tapering’ …at all. Certainly not like ‘dubbing’ corners in metal valley.

Also, per your earlier answer, the ends of the shingles should be 1" from the end wall siding, right? Sorry…a bit confused.

I’ve trimmed back all the old shingles that were overhanging the channel flashing & blasted all the leaves, debris (not much actually) out of there so I could have a good look. It’s heavy galvanized metal, they didn’t put any holes where the water goes. It’s nailed off through the end wall ply. There’s one seam. It looks good to me.

You looking at the first 3 pix or the next two?