My house is in the process of what is essentially a complete rebuild with the exception of 2 bathrooms. There is one section of roof where 2 sections come together to create a valley. I believe they have correctly put in a triangular cricket in the dead valley with a drop of over 1" per foot. The slope of the roof other than the cricket is 5/12. The floor of the cricket will be nail down underlayment and a peel and stick cap sheet that will be heated/rolled to get solid seal. Whether I do it myself or not, I want to make sure it gets done right. I’m trying to figure out the correct way to transition the flat section to the main slope. My main concerns are:
- The valley coming to a narrow V where water will want to rush out.
- The valley running into a “speed bump” of shingles and tending to pool.
My thought is to bring shingles up to just below the valley. Do step flashing on the facia until I get high enough and then to flash that whole facia wrapped over the top. Then, bring the cap sheet out over the shingles a foot or so, then continue shingling. I’m just not sure how the corner where the facia ends and the tip of the triangle is should be flashed / sealed. Looking to make it as bulletproof as possible. See attached pic. Any help is greatly appreciated.
In my opinion a cricket like that should always terminate on the bottom side to a ledger board, effectively making the exit point for water an extension of the lower wall flashing that would go against the varge rafter. The plywood would go further up the head wall and not come to a point at the bottom that constricts water, (and can plug up with minimal debris). We got used to these doing tile because we had to dump the water onto a course being around 2” high and too many cricket designs forced the water to drain into a pan flashing, which always plugged up. The exit point is ALWAYS the leak spot and having 4-6 inches wide is much better than a tiny pinch point. Just cut a 2x4 at an angle to the roof pitch and lay the cricket ply on top of it at the bottom.
Thanks Tileman. I really appreciate the response. That makes a lot of sense. Funny, that’s what seemed better to me, but the guys sheathing the house seemed pretty good, so I assumed I was missing something. To clarify, you’re saying to push the ply up the head wall to keep a good slope given the point of the triangle will get a 2" lift, correct? And the “tip” of the triangle will get a 4" flat tip that sets on a 2x4 that sits flush with the face of the large brown rafter. It all then gets flashed as one thing, correct? If so, that seems much cleaner to me.
That’s correct and I’m not badmouthing the framers. Most of them, even really good ones, build crickets like that but a select few build them the right way. That’s who I learned it from.
Yeah. I get it. You can only do what you know. I am in southern California, and I suspect with the amount of rain we (don’t) get those crickets are usually good enough. Anyway, I like the new plan and have access to ply, nails, and a saw. Thanks again for taking the time.
Dudes like you are nightmares. I get that you dont want your roof to leak, but holy cow dude. Seriously? Hire a roofer and go find a hobby. If your shit gets fucked up, sue. That cricket is pretty straight forward for any decent roofer. Theres no rocket science here.
When you call or hire a company to do the work, put in a bit of work.
But internetting and looking up specs and trying to check roofers works. Thats insane. I had a guy do that to me recently. Like dude. Relax.
That makes it very obvious what kind of work you do if it won’t stand up to the scrutiny of a homeowners research. I don’t think “relax dude” would go over well if a mechanical engineer was paying us top dollar for a 100k metal roof on a 3 million dollar home and had questions about detail. Keep roofing those manufactured homes and pounding on 7 square per hr. Just tell the customer to chill if they don’t like the nailing pattern.