Just had a new roof put on by a reputable roofing company with good reviews but I have a few concerns I would like feedback on. My roof is a 10/12 pitch and we are in central Indiana. When I got quotes most roofers said I didn’t need ice and water shield on the eaves because it was so steep. The company I went with said the same thing (recommended valleys and around walls only). However, I told them I would like it along all the eaves as well and this was put in the contract. Well they did the roof this weekend and I was there part of the time and am pretty sure they did not put it down on the eaves.
How can I verify if they did before I bring it up? Owner is supposed to come over for a walk through today or tomorrow before I make the final payment (half down half due after walk through). If I do verify that they did not put it down how to I handle it? Can they rip the new shingles off the edge and put it down and make it look right or do they have to redo it all? Other options?
Owens Cornings are hard to peel up. Set a ladder to the fascia boards or side of the house, & try to lift the metal drip edge a little. If the ice & water was installed you should see it under the metal. You should have atleast 3 feet on the bottom eave & 18 inches on the rake eaves. All valleys should be done & around penetrations like chimneys & skylites. Roof to wall transitions as well. Many states paper & ice shield isn’t required during new construction. However, many state do require paper & ice shield for a roof removal & replacement. So, no one should of told you that you don’t need it. Ice doesn’t care how steep the roof is. Where do you live? Oh, Indiana. Check your local codes.
Ok. So I pulled them up and checked. Just felt paper on the eaves. I know the valleys have ice/water though.
So now what do I do? Does this require they do a complete rip off? Is it appropriate to just rip off the 3 feet around eaves pit ice/water down and the shingles back over? Do I just leave it without and ask for a certain amount off since it wasn’t done per the contract?
The easiest solution is to ask for a deduct and pray you don’t have any ice dams. Yes, they can take off the bottom four or five rows, IF the contractor knows how to blind nail shingles. I wouldn’t let them face nail the top row of new shingles. The good news is the shingles are new enough to not have sealed down fully.
I’d be concerned on what else they didn’t do that you haven’t noticed yet.
Ice and water should be installed 24 inches into heated space. In your case it should be approximately 5 feet from the eave. Ice and water shield comes in 3 foot rolls which makes it just shy of 6 feet due to it being installed underneath the gutter apron or drip edge. The ice and water shield in the valleys should be installed over the ice and water that is on the eave. This is to allow water to run off the roof if it got behind the shingles. If the ice and water shield is pulled up it may delaminate the sheathing(which would bring another set of problems). Plus it may not adhere to the sheathing again which would negate any benefit of it being there in the first place.
This would cause the need for replacement of the shingles on the eave and valley. The bundle of shingles have lot numbers and there are slight variations between each lot.
These are the things that I would consider:
Ice and water shield in the valley should go over the ice and water shield on the eave.
The shingles should not be reused because you are paying for a new roof not a repaired new roof. 6 feet on the eave and valley is a substantial area of the roof.
Lot numbers of the new shingles may have a noticeable although slight variation in color. This may be noticed immediately or much later.
Gutter apron/drip edge should go over the ice and water shield and should not be re used.
If you do decide to have them install the ice and water where are going to stage the new material? (Hopefully on the ground.)
Extra foot traffic that the repairs will cause.
Would a new roof be inline or a substantial discount.
If I were the homeowner I would request photos showing that the items in the contract were in fact replaced. This should be no big deal for the roofer since he has to check them anyway.
Although, it is not uncommon to put felt over the ice and water shield so you may want to double check that first.
He said they are going to get it fixed and put the ice/water down. If another lot of shingles might look different doesn’t it make more sense to reuse the existing shingles they just installed if can do it without damaging them ?
[quote=“roof pitch”]I’d be concerned on what else they didn’t do that you haven’t noticed yet.
Ice and water should be installed 24 inches into heated space. In your case it should be approximately 5 feet from the eave. Ice and water shield comes in 3 foot rolls which makes it just shy of 6 feet due to it being installed underneath the gutter apron or drip edge. The ice and water shield in the valleys should be installed over the ice and water that is on the eave. This is to allow water to run off the roof if it got behind the shingles. If the ice and water shield is pulled up it may delaminate the sheathing(which would bring another set of problems). Plus it may not adhere to the sheathing again which would negate any benefit of it being there in the first place.
This would cause the need for replacement of the shingles on the eave and valley. The bundle of shingles have lot numbers and there are slight variations between each lot.
These are the things that I would consider:
Ice and water shield in the valley should go over the ice and water shield on the eave.
The shingles should not be reused because you are paying for a new roof not a repaired new roof. 6 feet on the eave and valley is a substantial area of the roof.
Lot numbers of the new shingles may have a noticeable although slight variation in color. This may be noticed immediately or much later.
Gutter apron/drip edge should go over the ice and water shield and should not be re used.
If you do decide to have them install the ice and water where are going to stage the new material? (Hopefully on the ground.)
Extra foot traffic that the repairs will cause.
Would a new roof be inline or a substantial discount.
If I were the homeowner I would request photos showing that the items in the contract were in fact replaced. This should be no big deal for the roofer since he has to check them anyway.
Although, it is not uncommon to put felt over the ice and water shield so you may want to double check that first.[/quote]
Glad u caught them trying to pull a fast one on u. No, don’t use the old shingles. They’re going to have a million nail holes in them. Don’t pay the final until you’re satisfied they match & look good.
[quote=“Newguyjosh”]He said they are going to get it fixed and put the ice/water down. If another lot of shingles might look different doesn’t it make more sense to reuse the existing shingles they just installed if can do it without damaging them ?
[quote=“roof pitch”]I’d be concerned on what else they didn’t do that you haven’t noticed yet.
Ice and water should be installed 24 inches into heated space. In your case it should be approximately 5 feet from the eave. Ice and water shield comes in 3 foot rolls which makes it just shy of 6 feet due to it being installed underneath the gutter apron or drip edge. The ice and water shield in the valleys should be installed over the ice and water that is on the eave. This is to allow water to run off the roof if it got behind the shingles. If the ice and water shield is pulled up it may delaminate the sheathing(which would bring another set of problems). Plus it may not adhere to the sheathing again which would negate any benefit of it being there in the first place.
This would cause the need for replacement of the shingles on the eave and valley. The bundle of shingles have lot numbers and there are slight variations between each lot.
These are the things that I would consider:
Ice and water shield in the valley should go over the ice and water shield on the eave.
The shingles should not be reused because you are paying for a new roof not a repaired new roof. 6 feet on the eave and valley is a substantial area of the roof.
Lot numbers of the new shingles may have a noticeable although slight variation in color. This may be noticed immediately or much later.
Gutter apron/drip edge should go over the ice and water shield and should not be re used.
If you do decide to have them install the ice and water where are going to stage the new material? (Hopefully on the ground.)
Extra foot traffic that the repairs will cause.
Would a new roof be inline or a substantial discount.
If I were the homeowner I would request photos showing that the items in the contract were in fact replaced. This should be no big deal for the roofer since he has to check them anyway.
Although, it is not uncommon to put felt over the ice and water shield so you may want to double check that first.[/quote]
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You might consider the following.
The area that is to be repaired is to large to effectively remove and replace the shingles and have them not be damaged in the process. Here is a few examples of why they shouldn’t reused.
The tar strip will stick to anything if it’s warm enough including each other.
The tar strip will get dust and debris during the repair process.
If the shingle gets folded it won’t show immediately but it will in the future.
Shingles will get damaged no matter how careful they are which brings it back to them possibly using shingles from a different lot.
If the shingles are re used they will have holes where the nails were.
The shingles may already be stuck together and could get damaged when they are separated.
You could have them repair it with new shingles and if doesn’t meet your standards they could give you a discount at that point or you could have them redo the entire roof again.
In all fairness, if the contractor doesn’t know how to blind nail shingles and would even consider face nailing the fifth or sixth row from the leading edge then he has absolutely no business being n the trade!!!
