How would YOU do it (if it were your own roof)?

:smiley: but that’s for a different discussion) & for such a small project, I think I’ll go top end - but then there’s not really a whole lot to do on a simple gabled roof / no valley / 5:12 structure that’s less than 2 squares.

I was thinking ½" type OSB over rafters, Gorilla Guard, then maybe a layer of 4x8 foam board (the ¼" thick type) with purlins over this & a simple corrugated metal or 5V Crimp. Edging will probably be reversed C channel galv. metal over fascia (or not if I go with a wooden drip edge) & maybe even a 1-½" drop drip edge (or a custom 3" galv. drip if no wooden drip) with the metal roof panels extended about 3" beyond the fascoa (eaves should be 18" deep & not back slanted or angled as I instructed the framer).

I’ll also add a ridge vent product to the center; one that’s metal specific. I’m also going to add eave vents on a fully cased in soffit & the walls are being built about 4’ taller than ‘normal’ height for lofting concerns… which essentially means I’m going to finish in a ceiling.

Now, I’m no metal guy :arrow: but I don’t think it will be any difficulty anywhere in there, however a friend who used to do framing said I will get too much expansion & contraction out of the insulating styro sheet. I will probably staple insulation under the deck as well, however that’s easily done after I finish the cap & siding work (going with Hardie lap, BTW).

:mrgreen: you should be happy with the metal & exposed screws, LoL. It will have electricity run to it & I intend to wire up for a window A/C when I find a decent unit on CraigsList or somesuch inexpensive unit (will frame a hole in the wall vs. an actual window). I’m putting an A/C in there because this is where we’ll be storing the saddles & some feed; it’s important to keep the humidity to a certain level - not too high, not too dry.


Gweedo and other metal heads,

      What would you advise RHR  to prevent/minimize oil canning? ( There's a new Publix nearby that isn't even open for business and the metal roof is already wrinkled.  Shouldn't be - hasn't even seen a South Carolina summer yet)
       Would you put your fasteners on the high spots or the flats?  I've heard both ways from roofers who should know.  
        How important is venting for a metal roof?  I see lots of metal roofs around with no ventilation, except possibly open sheathing.

the screws can be put in the flat or the v.
i see most roofs with the feild in the v, and the
edge in both in the flat and the v.
i have roofs both ways.
i would tell you which i like better but then someone
that has there roof screwed the other way, would find this post somehow,and id be gettin a call sayin i did it wrong.

due yourself a favor and get a good screw and independent rubber bonded washer.
perferably stainless.

forget about the buckles
all 5 v has it, some worse than others.

gweedo (aka metalhead)
an immortal reference indeed.


Nobody else? No input from Tim71, QRFL, Severance & Gallant, G-Tape, GTP, BillyGoat, RoofBoss, etc? Not even a post from any of you lurker roofers?


LOL! None of them but Guido is willing to step up to the plate and answer to “metal head”!

i beleive someone has mispelled the allmighty ones name.


gweedo covered it pretty well,although i would look to insulate below the osb rather than above so there`s no condensation issues w/ the osb

sorry…i dont like metal, so no input from me.

Well, as for the condensation, I was thinking that if I use the purlins, this might allow for some air flow.

In your collective opinion(s), what’s the best vapor barrier available? Straight 30# felt like the CertainTeed fiberglass weave (4 sq per roll, retails for around $ 19.00 @ Roofing Supply Group) or some other product?

Like my original post said, I am not 100% set on the metal, but for a ‘country’ look, I was thinking the metal had a better option.

I’m going to lay some R 19 under the roof deck in addition to the foil OSB & foam sheeting.