Hy-Crown Hypalon questions

I had a Hy-Crown flat roof installed about 8 years ago, about 400 sqft on my home in South Carolina. It’s been a constant hassle with the roofer ever since. Are there any visual benchmarks I could look for to determine if this was installed properly? Is there a way to get a manufacturer’s rep out to eyeball the job?

There are a lot of patches where I think the job should use as few pieces as possible. I can post photos later if there is any interest.

  Thanks for any help.


Does it leak?

YEah, besides being ugly, it leaks! In fact, if it didn’t leak I’d think it was beautiful. It also doesn’t feel right underfoot. Soft in places, crunchy in others. This is why I’d like a factory/licensing rep to inspect it. The guy who did the work tells me it’s a good job. I’d like a neutral 3rd party to see it.

Don’t know if this will help, but here are some pics of a TPO job.

Quite a few detail and up close photos.

Click for more

Nice pix, looks like a good job, nice and tight! Thy Hycrown Hypalon goes over foam panels and seams are welded with a hi-temp glue and heat gun.
I’m not sure what TPO is but I believe it’s a different system. Thanks!


If it leaks it is not a good job. You are not going to get a factory rep to come out. You have a commercial product on a residence. They do not warranty on residential applications.

Post some pictures. It may not be the roof that is taking in water.

I agree but the contractor has been trying to tell me for 8 years that the leaks come form somewhere else. My position is that he charged 4 times what anybody else asked and took the job to stop the leak. If the leak wasn’t from the roof he shouldn’t have taken the job. His job was to stop the leak, mine was to write a check. My check didn’t bounce. Enough of my whining!

   Thanks to everyone for your help and ideas.  Wish I'd found this forum long ago.  

Before you start slamming hypalon roofing, I would like to know who the manufacturer of the hypalon was. The trade name Hycrown is only used by one company, and that company has the lowest claims rate of any manufacturer in the industry, I know because I work for them and have seen industry numbers and ours is nowhere close to anyone else. We have never exceeded 1/2 of 1% in any year since the early 70’s. If this was a Hycrown roof I want to know the contractors name and I will get you some answers on it.

God Bless

Too bad you didn’t post earlier, I just came back to Houston after spending the last week on Johns Island and Hilton Head. I was practically in your backyard, and was looking for a reason to visit Isle of Palms. Oh well, timing is everything.

As for the roof, I’d like to see close-up photos of the screen-wall penetrations and along base of walls. It is quite possible, from what I did see, the source of the leak is at roof penetrations for the screen-wall.

I’m not familiar with the term “screen-wall”. The roof in question is approximately 20 x 20 ft with a 10 x 10 belvedere/cupola in the middle. The belvedere walls have hypalon going up about 6", terminated with a metal termination bar. The perimeter has a wooden fence, penetrations are flashed with the hypalon about 6" vertical. There are also dormers on three sides, vertically flashed. Water comes into the house from wehat appears to be the middle of the field, maybe 4 feet from the belvedere wall, 2-3 feet from the edge of the flat.
I hope these descriptions are not too vague.

Then here is what I suggest you do. After it rains and the sun comes out go up on the roof and watch the water evaporate off the roof. You can help this along with a broom or squeegee if you want. As the roof is nearly dry start looking at all the remaining wet spots. Assuming you have insulation beneath the roof membrane, the insulation will retain moisture and as the sun dries out the roof it will draw the moisture out from any holes in the roof membrane. So, any holes, burns, cuts, etc. that have compromised the watertight integrity of the roof, will remain wet as the rest of the roof dries.

Now, if you can’t find a wet spot around a hole, then you are probably looking at a leak around one of the screen-wall (fence) penetrations, or along the roof perimeter (edge or cupola wall).

If you want to, you could also water test your roof with a hose. Run water on the roof until the leak shows up inside, then turn off the hose and look for the source. Tip: Always start low and work your way up. In other words, test the roof membrane first, then slowly work your way up walls, and penetrations. Also, it generally will take some time to make it leak, but you would know best based on you experience with rain storms and how long it takes before the leak shows up inside. Warning: If it takes several hours to show up, I suggest in your case that you wait for a rain storm rather than performing a water test.

What kind of decking is under the roof. I doubt the leak is in the field or else it would have to be a pinhole and couldnt be leaking too much. Corrugated steel decking can make a leak travel a long way. No doubt the roof is leaking, the soft and crunchy lets you know that, the insulation is waterlogged. Termination bar is not a finished product, it is a way of securing the membrane to the wall more so than what the glue will do. Whatever has termination bar on it should have had some kind of metal flange going over it someway somehow, though thats a bad angle of the roof and I cant see what going on. I’d bet theres a hole in the caulking where the termination bar is somewhere. Regardless, if the insulation beneath is waterlogged, kiss it good bye to either the moisture forcing its way out, or screws popping through the unsupported membrane. Its just a matter of time at this point.

The underlying insulation is “tapered Polyisocyanurate board-stock insulation” over existing substrate( 1/2" plywood). It only leaks when it rains like hell from certain directions. The perception is that it must fill some kind of retaining void before it finds a path down through the deck, substrate, insulation and ceiling.

Surprisingly, the original contractor has responded to a certified letter notifying him of the problem and possible legal action. At this point, we’re about ready to strip it down to essentials so we can see the damage underneath and get it redone right and figure out later who pays for it.

Thanks for the reply.  You're at the PC early this AM.  Trouble sleeping?

PS - Is the Rev Fayette kin of yours?

rain forecast, just needed to pull some permits and do some legwork today. But, yes, I often have trouble sleeping. Particularly when I read or write, I lose track of time.

ill bet my new boots that the supports for your wall are the culprits are they caulked or terminated? just for the record hypalon roof are not well liked by those who install them.

What size? Steel-toed? The wall supports are wrapped to about 6" up and then caulked. I’m suspecting the vertical dormer wall myself.

    That's interesting about Hypalon installers. Do you mean actual installers (workers)  or  contractors?   Is that about  performance of the roof or that they're a PITA to install?

I’m even more concerned now than I was before… the walls are “wrapped” 6 inches up the wall? With what? A flat roof needs to be TERMINATED! Termination bar with caulking which in my opinion is still wrong is still better that just caulking with no termination bar.

If a roofer can’t find a leak for 8 years he’s a retard, I missed that one before. Tell him Mike Severance said so. This is essentially what someone else mentioned before, a TPO roof. The other side of the roof with roof flashings would tell me the answer. All I’m seeing is a wall with nothing to do with the roof as far as I can see.

Thanks to everyone who contributed ideas and suggestions. The roofer sent out his Ace Leak Pro who insisted on taking down the fencing. You couldn’t see from the photos but the fences back up to vertical walls of dormers on three sides. One of these dormer-fence junctions was the source of the leak. Since you people couldn’t see the dormers from my photos, I won’t collect on roofboss’ boots.
There were no penetrations from the fence posts, they were free-floating, fence secured at the dormers. The corners of the belvedere-cupola in the center were flashed outside the siding and trim, which was another source of moisture-termites.
The roofing contractor will redo his job under warranty, I am repairing and replacing a lot of termite damaged windows and stuff on my nickel. I’m pretty well satisfied with everybody so far.
Again, thanks for your inputs. I’ve learned a whole lot here.

i wear size 17 1/2 want em? fences belong in yards not on roofs. hypalon sucks nuff said