Ice/Water Shield / Ridge Vents in Central Texas

I am doing reroof in Central TX. (San Antonio). I have decided on Landmark TL Ultimate shingle and have gotten several bids. I have learned alot from reading the postings here and appreciate that you are willing to take the time to educate homeowners. It is especially helpful to have a regular posting from a roofer in Central Texas.

The bid from the local roofing company I feel most comfortable with indicates ridge vent on the main ridge. However, my roof (and attic) is very broken up with several elevation changes between horizontal ridges. Should I insist on ridge vent on all horizontal ridges? I know that I will specify that roll ridge vent not be used, but what is the difference between CobraII and CobraIII? Is one of them 5/8" and the other 1"?

In Central Texas, where should Ice/Water Shield be installed (in addition to the valleys). Around chimney, eaves, rakes, pipe penetrations, ridges? How high up/in from eaves/rakes? Should 30# felt be installed over the Water Shield?

The bid also indicates chimney flashing is to be installed and specifies tin shingle. Is this the best material? I am taking off concrete tile roof.

If all of the attic interior is connected, it would possibly be unwise to install ridge vents on the lower ridge lines, as they could possibly be short-circuiting the proper ventilation flowage path, which should come from the intake ventilation in the soffits.

On that prestiqious style of shingle, the contractor should use copper step flashings, (baby tins), and copper counter flashings cut into a reglet in the brick mortar joints.

I do not use the Cobra brands, except for one time the Snow Country version was shipped out by mistake instead of the Shingle Vent II by Air Vent.


Thank you for the feedback, ETR. Upon closer inspection of the rooflines this afternoon, I noted that all of the horizontal ridges were lower than the main ridge, so I imagine that even though the attic connections are somewhat small, they will be sufficient to allow for circulation from the soffit vents to the main ridge.

The copper flashings do sound beautiful. Are we talking real copper, and if so, how much can I expect that to cost? There is probably roughly 16 lf around the chimney. I realize that there are a lot more factors that go into pricing but with copper prices rising as they have, I was just hoping for a rough idea. If the price is prohibitive, what would you recommend?

What is your preferred ridge vent, and why?

A full sheet of copper 16 oz. probably costs about $ 150.00 right now. It is a commodity, so the prices change daily, just like lobster.

Bending it is just like any other metal, but the contractor may want to add for an additional waste factor allowance, since it is more expensive than standard coil stock or Kynar 500 coated Aluminum or steel. (Both of those are good too!)

I prefer Shingle Vent II, because I have been using it exclusively since 1993 with absolutely zero problems or complaints. For the previous 8 years, I used anything and everything and found problems with all of them at one time or another.

Plus, they take the time out to educate the contractors with free seminars and provide very well researched and documented literature and publications for everybody to increase their knowledge about the proper principles of attic ventilation.


I would recommend calling a few local contractors I know in your area. Hills of Texas Roofing and Quality Roofing. They are both good contractors and they should be able to answer your questions. Good Luck…

Just came across this thread; where the heck did it slide off to that I didn’t see it?

I’ve done San Antonio jobs, however I have zero experience in doing copper (if you’re going to use it for your valleys & are going for the “open valley” look, be sure to get the “W” type so that water coming off any high slopes won’t run down, then back UP the other side & try to penetrate under this next slope’s shingles.

I will vouch for the GAF Cobra III. The differences between it & the C II are:

  1. It can be sized by hand* by snapping off a 6" section @ a time… it’s “somewhat” pre-perforated (it does take a little bit of work to pop it, but it doesn’t require a saw).
  2. It comes with nails pre-attached, so no wondering if the contractor will try to use whatever is on hand if they don’t already have the correct size.

*Provided this measurement fits your needs… if you need something ending on a 3" distance, then it’s time to get the saw out.

I think I have used one other brand on 2 occasions & didn’t like them as much, even though the other products were lower priced by around $ 1.50 per 4’ stick.