J"d out kickout instalation over rigid foam insulation

[status1]

I have some damage due to missing kickout and I am planing to install a j’d out kickout but I am not sure of the best installation steps

Normally or the basic I saw in some videos the kickout is placed over the starter course and nailed into the wall and than the house wrap goes on top of the nailing flange and from there use the normal step flashing

The problem is the wall has fiber cement tiles and on top of that there is a rigid foam insulation and on top of that is the vinyl siding so if I make it as shown normally I would have to place the fiber cement tile on top of it
and probably have to make it in 2 pieces than place the rigid foam on top and cutout around the kickout and finally when I put the siding on the gap for the siding would be mostly filled by the cement tile and foam

So I am thinking I would need to place it on top of the foam insulation for the vinyl siding to fit but I feel like it’s not the best since there is nothing stopping the water from going under the kickout although that will go over the foam and cement tiles

I just want to make sure I do this once and not have to redo it again if any water finds it’s way around

[Darkthirty]

Just run it behind the existing step flashing. If the current step flash is buried behind the fiber-cement you’ll have to dig, if not, prove clearance with a piece of stiff aluminum. When it hits a nail you’ll have a mark on the edge. Notch your kickout where the mark correlates and slide it in there. Demo is the last thing you want to do…finesse it.

[status1]

Thanks for the reply
The damage was already done so I already did some of the demolition inside just to see how much of the wood is rotten and I also removed the first 2 courses of shingles from the roof and some of the siding from the wall

There was no step flashing just one piece of wide aluminum sheet coming down from the wall and overlapping the roof about 6-8 inches

Just to describe to situation for a better understanding of the problem
There is a breezeway between the house and the garage which was added after the garage was built The breezeway is at a right angle to the roof of the garage so as the roof of the garage is sloping down it meets the breezeway wall on the edge

So at the edge of the roof where it meets the wall that’s where the water was getting in so I am not sure what if anything can be done about it

Yes the kick out will help keep most of the water out but there is still an intersection that is open unless I use some caulking to plug up the hole which can crack after a while

I was wondering how is this done normally since you have to notch the siding or whatever is on the wall to go around the edge of the roof ?

Maybe just use a big water membrane to cover the entire wall of the breezeway from the roof down and not worry about the notch where the wall meets the roof ?

[Darkthirty]

Post a pic of the area on the roof, there is always a solution. Kick out might be wasting your time. You have enough damage to get it right…

[status1]

Here is a picture I just took
I just have the tarpaper over the edge between the roof and the wall and I have the kickout kind of where I think it should go and the shingles are just loosely on there without any nail so I can still move or trim them as needed I also have the step flashing above the kickout

We just had some rain last night and I did not see any leaks so it’s working but now it’s just a matter of how to finish the wall without causing any leaks

[Darkthirty]

I would continue up to the base of the valley, looks to be sagging there. Replace any wet OSB. Put ice and water shield on the deck and run it up the wall before replacing the shingles and siding. Make sure the flashing runs under the valley.

[status1]

Hmm… I am not sure I understand by continue up the base Continue with what ? Ice and water shield ? I just want to make sure I got all the details because this is critical

The roof is made with tung and groove solid wood no OSB and there is no rot on the roof The rot starts from the edge of the roof down right in the corner where a typical flashing would end without a kickout

The small dip in the roof shingles is because the guy ho did the roof left 2
layers of the old roofing and no starter course about 8-12 inches from the valley

My main concern is what happens at the end of the flashing at the edge of the roof ? Does it dead end there right into the fiber cement tiles of the wall ? This was the problem that caused the leak in the first place

Also where does the J’d kickout fit into this ?
Do I place it on top of the insulation like I have it in the picture with 1 or 2 flashing on top of it ? Maybe place another piece of tar paper or flashing tape over the flashings ?

[Darkthirty]

I like to get to the end of the valley because that’s where a lot of leaks originate. You’ll paint the kickout to match the siding. Cut a slit in the siding where it meets the vertical part of the kick out and slip the siding over it. Make sense?

[status1]

I agree that the end of the valley is where the leak originate and that is what I am trying to fix

There are 2 layers of siding so just to clarify you are talking about the vinyl siding Correct ?
I understand I will cut a slit in the vinyl siding but I am not sure if this will stop some of the water getting in through the slit

There is also the fiber cement siding
What do I do with that ?
Do I go over or under the tar paper or do I make a notch in that too ?

[Darkthirty]

You’re going to have to work with wherever the existing flashing is, unless you pull the shingles all the way to the valley and rehang the cement and foam, then reflash the wall.

[status1]

The flashing is all loose so I can arrange them any way I want I am just not sure what is the best way

Probably have to do some custom weaving of all the cement siding, flashing and foam layers

I am thinking of doing the cement siding and normal flashing and go with the tar paper on top of the cement siding that way the water has no way to get behind the cement siding

It will be somewhat ugly looking but than I can place the foam on top of it and the j’d kickout on top of that with a couple of more flashing further up than finally the vinyl siding on top of everything with the notch over the kickout

That way if any water goes through the notch it will fall on the tar paper and over the cement tiles and than outside of the house

That’s my plan I just hope I did not overlooked anything

[Darkthirty]

Pull the shingles. Hang the cement siding and foam. Ice and water on deck and up the wall. Step flash as you replace shingles. Re-set the fascia panel and J channel. Re-hang the vinyl siding. The slit in the siding covers on the high side, and exposes the bend of the kickout at the eave. You want to keep the water on the roof, the flashing keeps it out of the siding assembly, and ultimately, out of the house. Roofing is simple, unless you get “creative”. You can have a few beers AFTER completion.

[status1]

That all makes sense if I did not have the wall intersecting the roof

In order to hang the cement siding and foam I would have to notch out each one where it meets the roof to go around the edge of the roof

Yes the kickout keeps most of the water out of the side assembly but what keeps the water out of the slit in the vinyl siding and perhaps finding it’s way into the notch in the foam and cement siding and go right behind it into the wall and starting the rot all over again ?

Are saying to just ignore that small amount of water that may get in there ?

[Darkthirty]

the removed cement siding and foamboard don’t fit now for some reason?

[status1]

Well it fits because it was already modified but also that is where the water got in so I am trying to make it better so it will never leak again

There was never a good seal there at the notch so I am trying to make it so that it will never leak even if the water gets through the slit in the vinyl siding

[status1]

So I managed to fix the siding and the roof

In picture 1 you see how I fixed the siding
Instead of using the asphalt paper and than placing the fiber shingles on top and than notching it around where it meets the roof like it was done originally and the reason why the water was going behind the shingles I used the asphalt paper sort of like a flashing So I have one layer below everything than one layer of fiber shingles that goes against the garage without notching Than a layer of asphalt paper that goes from the side over the garage and over the layer of fiber shingles on the side of the house On top of that I have the normal flashing from the roof and over that I have the next layer of fiber shingles
So any water from the roof now goes on top of the fiber shingles and not behind it

[status1]

The siding was just a last layer of defense against water intrusion but the first one that needed to be done .
So on the roof it was another tricky situation because of the insulation that was on top of the fiber shingles so I cannot install the J’d out kickout as it would be done normally
So in picture 4

after I installed the roof flashing and fiber shingles I placed the insulation on top of it and than I slit one flashing to go below the first layer of flashing on the roof and on top of the insulation on the side

[status1]

In picture 5

you see the flashing go on top of the kickout and I also used some caulking where I made the slit in the flashing so now all the water from the first layer of flashing goes over this piece of flashing and over the kickout and away from the side of the house