Liberty Roll Rubber Roofing/ Install

Need some input here to clarify things. I have a 5 square patio roof with a 1.5 inch per foot slope. I’m going to install a roll rubber roof. The Home Depot folks say to just use the Rolls on a primed plywood surface. However, the Liberty instructions say to use it over base rolls that lay between the top roll and deck.

Now to add more confusion, my Dad in Florida did his roof as per a close friend of his who is a roofer in Dade county,and he did it as such: Felt paper over treated plywood, no primer, then the roll rubber which he use the Liberty seam cement on, and also nailed it and tarred nail heads and sprinkled stone on the tat spots to match the roll roof texture. (This method has withstood alot of hurricanes on his friends customers roofs)

OK, sooo, which way is proper, if any of the above ways are, and is there really an “absolute proper way”.

I’m in Western New York State, so I don’t need to be preparing against Hurricanes. :stuck_out_tongue: … /20352.pdf

For reference:

MA = mechanically attatched (base sheet)

SA = self adhering (base sheet)

use the liberty base sheet,then the liberty cap sheet,instructions are on the box,buy a hand roller for the seams

ditto…and fyi it is not rubber, it is asphault.

You can also stick the Liberty down over ice&water shield, its cheaper than there base sheet and is basically the same damn thing.

you can also prime the deck and then cap sheet,but the liberty base is the best option-it seals better than on a granulated ice shield-IMO 8)

I use the CertainTeed FlintTastic system.

  1. Proper roof deck, i.e. no damage, no rotten spots, etc.

  2. FlintPrime in the gallon jugs, goes 5 squares per can.

  3. SA base & cap on every possible chance. Why create a penetration point if you don’t have to?

  4. SA cap over SA base; be sure to use FlintBond seam sealer to fill the voids of an overlap. This is an often skipped step which will create premature cracking along the lap joint(s).

What your Dad’s friend is doing is (IMO) not correct & after the warranty expires or someone moves then it’s not his problem… which is probably about 3 or 4 years after his warranty has expired. Then again, I would hope he’s good enough buddies with your Dad that he wouldn’t try to pull a fast one on him & it may last a long time. But I wouldn’t do it like that.

By the way, I think I have done ONE flame job in the last 2 years & this is on a repair where the customer insisted on only doing a repair vs. the whole flat roof surface (which is what I preferred but he didn’t want to spend on).

i use flintlastic also,but the liberty applied correctly is a good system as well ranchhand :expressionless: