Looking for professional help with a 16 year old R panel roof

Hello everyone, I joined this forum a while back when I lived in Florida as I was about to reroof (asphalt shingle) my 1300 sf house there. Well, as life would have it, I moved to Mississippi about a year ago due to a career change. I sold the house in FL as is, did ok, and never looked back (I love it here!).

So I bought a very nice 2400 sf house here that has what I believe is called R panel metal roof. Exposed fasteners. The guy I bought the house from built the house himself in 2000. So the roof is about 16 years old. I still talk to the guy that built the house (very nice guy), he helps me if needed with things on the house. He overbuilt just about everything. As I do some research, I realize the roof may not be done “correctly”, of course that word means different things to different people. The roof trusses simply have furring strips on top of them followed by the metal panels, no sheathing(plywood) or tar paper, etc. My first question is to figure out if this is technically “right” or “wrong”, not that it really matters at this point because I’m not replacing the roof because of it.

The roof is in decent shape, much better than my FL house that had a similar aged ashalpt shingle roof. I have noticed the screws are very rusty and just by looking at them appear to need replaced. Metal panels seem to be in ok shape, some discoloration when up close but not from the ground. We had some very strong wind last week while it stormed and got some wind blown rain up under ridge cap and down onto the hardwood floors (yay!). The foam piece that’s supposed to prevent this was blown in. I noticed while in the attic a few other drips (I assume screws).

Here’s my thoughts, any input is appreciated. First, I really don’t have a lot of money to spend. Second, I’m thinking I can buy some good quality screws and rescrew the entire roof myself for a few hundred bucks (2400 sf house, somewhere around 3000 screws im guessing). Third, I’m thinking when I unscrew the ridge caps I can replace the closure foam strips. Lastly, when I unscrew the bottom of the panels by the gutters, will I be able to simply replace the closure foam there as well? Some of those pieces are blown out also.

Thanks a lot! I am willing to spend the money on screws and closure to get another 15 years out of my roof, and I am ok with checking the screws every 5 years if need be also. Especially with no second layer of defense.

Yes you should be able to install new closures as you described.

Go to your local roofing & siding supplier and talk to them, they will be able to get you some oversize screws to replace your worn ones and answer any questions you may have.

Yeah its easy enough to ad new foam closures. Also if it was my house I would temporarily remove the ridge cap, bend up the top of the panel and then reinstall the ridge cap. This is a step that most people don’t do but I find it very important. This helps prevent wind driven rain from entering even if your foam closures rot out, or get eaten by critters or something. I’ll try to find a pic of what I am talking about.

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This is what I am talking about. http://www.bestbuymetals.com/store/images/picture-turn-up-tool-3.jpg

Thank you for the tips! Exactly what I was looking for, some confirmation from professionals that I’m on the right track here… I plan to stop by a local recommended metal roofing supplier later this week to get some help/info/pricing. I’m feeling a little more confident about doing this now. Replacing the screws and closures on the new house here in MS is a lot less of a job to tackle than when I was considering redoing my entire asphalt shingle roof at my old house in FL.

It’s been a while since I posted but I have been busy. We haven’t had another leak since the first wind driven rain, but this past weekend had another wind driven rain and a small leak in the same spot. (go figure).

I had a contractor come out today and they want $6k to rescrew and replace all the closure strips. That seems expensive but I don’t have anything to compare… Thoughts?

I honestly can’t afford that, so am considering doing it all myself over winter. He wants $1k to do just the closure strips and associated screws. May also go that route then do the other screws myself.

Will be getting more quotes as well. This is a 2400sf house plus 2 car carport by the way. I estimated (really quickly) 3000 screws. He told me he thought about 3500 screws.

I usually don’t like to trash another guys prices but 6k for replacing screws and installing foam closures ridiculous. Let us know what the other estimates are.

Thanks for the reply islandroofing. I am working on getting some more quotes. I was expecting something more around $1,500-$3,000. $6k seemed outrageous to me so it’s nice to hear the same from someone in the business…

P.s. Also since they will be taking all the screws out of the ridge anyway to install closures make sure you ask contractors about bending up the top of the panel like I showed you earlier. That is a solution to the wind driven rain problem that will hold up the life of your roof unlike the foam which will last until it rots out or a bird decides it looks fun to pull apart.

Ask them this while they are doing the quote not while they are doing the job though. We all hate the old “while you are up there…” after we have already agreed on the what the job includes.

10-4! I have that on my list, thanks. Will be making a decision soon whether to pay to have it done (depending on prices) or do it myself. I’m going to get 2 more quotes, that’ll give me a total of 3…

I’ll drive down and do it for $5900.
That would be the easiest $4000 I’ve ever made… How far are you fro those casinos in Biloxi?

Get more quotes, you’re getting hosed.

lol I’m about 30 minutes from the casinos :slight_smile:

Hey there, I am getting ready to buy the materials I need for this project now that cold weather is here. During my research and pricing I’ve come across more questions I was hoping ya’ll could help with.

First of all, my estimate with the long life screws (the ones with the one piece cap head) is ~$540 to redo ALL screws with the exception that I didn’t do a takeoff on the trim pieces at the edges of the gables. But there aren’t many screws in those, so I figure I’ll have enough left over, or will buy one more bag for $45 or so. This price includes new ridge closure strips, and all the screws as mentioned above. That’s the long life screws that go through the metal sheets into the wood (larger diameter as well, #14 I believe vs the original #12), and the “lap” or “stitch” screws at the overlap of the panels. The lap screws are also long life but not larger diameter, they are still a #12.

So, questions… do you think the new lap screws will bite not going to a larger diameter? Or should I worry about this?

How many different types/sizes of screws should there be? I know the main ones that hold the metal to the wood, then the “lap” screws. Are the screws at the ridges the same as the “lap” screws (this is what I assume)? What about at the ends of the roof at gables? I assume if screwing through the metal into the wood use the wood screws, if only screwing into the R panel and not the wood then use lap screws. I think there is an even smaller size screw used on the side of these pieces where it screws into the fascia board.

At these gable pieces, is there any “double sided tape” or any type of foam or seal where they meet the R panel? Is this typical?

There are a few spots I found on the roof where I guess the installer missed the wood so siliconed the hole and moved the screw over. Should I just leave this alone? Or is there a better way to fix this?

At the roofing supply store, the guy showed me how to bend the tops of the panels up to create a dam, it was super easy with the special pliers he had, almost like a mini plier “brake” for bending sheet metal. Called a seamer. I’m going to buy a set and do this extra step like you mentioned in the older posts above. The gap between ridges in the panels looks to be just under 9" wide. Will a 9" seamer work? Or should I buy a 6" They have a combo 3"/6" (change the plates) on amazon for $60. Thought about getting that one… Made by midwest tool. But they also have the same brand for same price in a 5"/9" combo.

I have two valleys, and they have special metal piece that I’m sure you all know what it is. I assume this runs up the valleys about 12"-24" or so under the R panels. Is there any type of closure strip here I should be concerned with?

I’ve decided to only replace the ridge closure strips, and not do the ones at the bottom by the gutters. I just don’t see the value there, there’s no water infiltration, it’ll only help the attic breathe better (I have 3 attic fans on the gables, and two other gable vents, with no ridge vents. The front and rear porch and rear carport have vented sophit, and each also has a large vent/register like an AC filter register vent). Most of the bottom closure is still in place anyway, so the only downside I see is there will be a few holes that bugs can get into. I don’t think this is a real big deal…

I’ve noticed my roof is very “dirty”. Somewhat faded but that doesn’t bother me. Should I somehow clean it once done with all the work? Pressure wash? Hose, cleaner, and broom/brush?

There’s a few spots I found where I’m not real sure the guy installed correctly as far as flashing. I think I’ll just take a few pictures when I get time rather than try to explain. The one I will try to explain is the one I’m most concerned about, although I think it is acceptable. But if it isn’t right and I need to rework it it’s a tremendous amount of work…

Where the R panel meets a wall (side of the panel meets the wall), they flashed it by bending the edge of the R panel against the wall up at a 90 degree angle about 1", then put metal sheet metal maybe 8" wide or so overlapping the lip they created on the R panel. The sheet metal is nailed to the plywood wall. Then they caulked/tared/sealed with some material the bejesus out of the joint at the sheet metal and R panel. The vinyl siding then covers the sheet metal. Is this acceptable?

With the long life screws, I think he said they are aluminum, I forgot to ask if they come in colors. Do you think my roof will look bad like polka dots with aluminum screws and a light grey roof? I’m thinking it’ll be OK as they are at least in the same color family. Silver/grey…

Oh one more thing, I noticed that the panel overlaps are teh same, neither has a “longer” overlap and a “shorter” overlap. I noticed because I was looking at the edge by the gutters at the overlap, then was in the attic looking and noticed both ends are “short” overlap. Doesn’t really matter at this point as I’m not replacing all the panels due to this, just thought it was odd. Being that the holes are already there anyway, I don’t think I’d have much problem with the panel pushing away and not pulling tight…

Are there adhesive strips/seals between panel overlaps?

I probably have a few more questions. Any help much appreciated! I’d like to purchase materials in a week or so and start working a few hours each day after work.

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