Hey there, I am getting ready to buy the materials I need for this project now that cold weather is here. During my research and pricing I’ve come across more questions I was hoping ya’ll could help with.
First of all, my estimate with the long life screws (the ones with the one piece cap head) is ~$540 to redo ALL screws with the exception that I didn’t do a takeoff on the trim pieces at the edges of the gables. But there aren’t many screws in those, so I figure I’ll have enough left over, or will buy one more bag for $45 or so. This price includes new ridge closure strips, and all the screws as mentioned above. That’s the long life screws that go through the metal sheets into the wood (larger diameter as well, #14 I believe vs the original #12), and the “lap” or “stitch” screws at the overlap of the panels. The lap screws are also long life but not larger diameter, they are still a #12.
So, questions… do you think the new lap screws will bite not going to a larger diameter? Or should I worry about this?
How many different types/sizes of screws should there be? I know the main ones that hold the metal to the wood, then the “lap” screws. Are the screws at the ridges the same as the “lap” screws (this is what I assume)? What about at the ends of the roof at gables? I assume if screwing through the metal into the wood use the wood screws, if only screwing into the R panel and not the wood then use lap screws. I think there is an even smaller size screw used on the side of these pieces where it screws into the fascia board.
At these gable pieces, is there any “double sided tape” or any type of foam or seal where they meet the R panel? Is this typical?
There are a few spots I found on the roof where I guess the installer missed the wood so siliconed the hole and moved the screw over. Should I just leave this alone? Or is there a better way to fix this?
At the roofing supply store, the guy showed me how to bend the tops of the panels up to create a dam, it was super easy with the special pliers he had, almost like a mini plier “brake” for bending sheet metal. Called a seamer. I’m going to buy a set and do this extra step like you mentioned in the older posts above. The gap between ridges in the panels looks to be just under 9" wide. Will a 9" seamer work? Or should I buy a 6" They have a combo 3"/6" (change the plates) on amazon for $60. Thought about getting that one… Made by midwest tool. But they also have the same brand for same price in a 5"/9" combo.
I have two valleys, and they have special metal piece that I’m sure you all know what it is. I assume this runs up the valleys about 12"-24" or so under the R panels. Is there any type of closure strip here I should be concerned with?
I’ve decided to only replace the ridge closure strips, and not do the ones at the bottom by the gutters. I just don’t see the value there, there’s no water infiltration, it’ll only help the attic breathe better (I have 3 attic fans on the gables, and two other gable vents, with no ridge vents. The front and rear porch and rear carport have vented sophit, and each also has a large vent/register like an AC filter register vent). Most of the bottom closure is still in place anyway, so the only downside I see is there will be a few holes that bugs can get into. I don’t think this is a real big deal…
I’ve noticed my roof is very “dirty”. Somewhat faded but that doesn’t bother me. Should I somehow clean it once done with all the work? Pressure wash? Hose, cleaner, and broom/brush?
There’s a few spots I found where I’m not real sure the guy installed correctly as far as flashing. I think I’ll just take a few pictures when I get time rather than try to explain. The one I will try to explain is the one I’m most concerned about, although I think it is acceptable. But if it isn’t right and I need to rework it it’s a tremendous amount of work…
Where the R panel meets a wall (side of the panel meets the wall), they flashed it by bending the edge of the R panel against the wall up at a 90 degree angle about 1", then put metal sheet metal maybe 8" wide or so overlapping the lip they created on the R panel. The sheet metal is nailed to the plywood wall. Then they caulked/tared/sealed with some material the bejesus out of the joint at the sheet metal and R panel. The vinyl siding then covers the sheet metal. Is this acceptable?
With the long life screws, I think he said they are aluminum, I forgot to ask if they come in colors. Do you think my roof will look bad like polka dots with aluminum screws and a light grey roof? I’m thinking it’ll be OK as they are at least in the same color family. Silver/grey…
Oh one more thing, I noticed that the panel overlaps are teh same, neither has a “longer” overlap and a “shorter” overlap. I noticed because I was looking at the edge by the gutters at the overlap, then was in the attic looking and noticed both ends are “short” overlap. Doesn’t really matter at this point as I’m not replacing all the panels due to this, just thought it was odd. Being that the holes are already there anyway, I don’t think I’d have much problem with the panel pushing away and not pulling tight…
Are there adhesive strips/seals between panel overlaps?
I probably have a few more questions. Any help much appreciated! I’d like to purchase materials in a week or so and start working a few hours each day after work.