Metal Roofs 101

Debating between metal/ shingles on a re-roof job on a 20yr old stick house in S. Fla… Lots of metal roofs going on nowadays here. I don’t know anything about metal roofs. I need info on thickness , fastening, underlay, ridge vents, and any other information that I ask the roofers about…


First thing you should know is there are huge quality gaps in the different types of metal roofs. Any the better ones will probably be at least 2x the price of a shingle roof. I see you are in Florida, your state has the most ridiculous codes in the country to you’ll need to talk to your local building inspector to know the fastening/underlayment/ect codes in your area. But I’ll give you a few things to google and help you make your choice.

Imo standing seam is the best. This type will have no exposed fastener if done properly (with the exception of a few rivits the matching color of the roof). Also there are different types of standing seam, I won’t go into the differences here but can later if you are interested.

There also make metal shingles (again in many different styles). I have only ever installed them once however. They seem good for the most part but I am not really sold on the way they spec certain details (valleys, ect), seem too easy to get clogged with debris and cause a massive leak. Lots of other roofers rave about metal shingles but I am not 100% sold on them yet.

Last we have the exposed fastener systems. They are the ones that when you look at them you see all the screws holding down the panel. They work, but I really don’t think they are much of an upgrade from a shingle roof. Problem is the washers on the screws dry out (esp in the florida sun) and then they can leak. Scroll down to thread "Is this how it’s suppose to look? " it about a fellow statesman of yours getting an exposed fastener roof installed.

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thank you…more questions to come after the weekend…

hail damage claim to existing roof being settled…ready to gather info on new metal roof. they don’t use felt paper, so what are the products being used?? estimates have mentioned SWR, Polyglass IRX, and just ""a new secondary waterbarrier with Miami Dade approved tin tags’’ getting confused already…

If you live in FL read Gweedo

there is a reason they call it (“the cheap, least expensive metal roof” )the key west roof, it has a much better chance of survival in a hurricane.

I’m of the belief that roof underlayment is only to protect your house before the roof is finished and after it is the underlayment is completely useless. If you are relying on a “secondary waterbarrier” to keep your house dry then the roof was never installed properly in the first place. And any “secondary waterbarrier” will not keep your house dry long term if your primary roof is leaking.

Yeah you are in Florida so that means you are gonna have to deal with ridiculous requirements that make no sense and you’ll roof instillation will be held up multiple days while waiting on inspectors (who love to show up on their convenience). But because your roof will take longer to install than it would if your roofer didn’t have to wait on inspections I will be recommending you use a better underlayment than I would in most cases.

If I were your roofer I would recommend you use a HT (high temperature) peal and stick underlayment. It will do the best job keeping your house dry as you wait for the roof to be finished. Also a “high temperature” underlayment shouldn’t stick to the metal roof once it is finished,that means less likely to “oil can” (look wavy when the sun hits it).

Job is done/,fixed some bad places,re-nailed,peel and stick and covered w/ 5V bright metal… Now the color of the house is wrong…Is there a sight that shows potential colors for a house with a bright metal roofs ???

Thanks All..

In my younger days i worked installing asbestos shingle and wooden shake roofs…If , at that time, we were shown the material, method and workmanship used to install a modern metal roof on a house today, many would laugh and shake their heads …

question now about gutters…water comes down in a hurry and with a longer overhang ,it goes right over the 5’’ gutter…was told to put up 6’’ gutters but that still will result in a lot of splashing back towards the roof…the metal sheets have gaps in places where the sheets lay on the drip cap…afraid water will splash back into these gaps…do you caulk the gaps ???