Mod bit roof to shingles

Hi everyone,
I just finished my first SA mod bit roof today, used mulehide. It is a 1/12 pitch, shed roof transitioning to a 12/12 on the top side. I’m wondering if anyone has advice on how to handle the transition area. I’ve already run the mod bit about 25 inches up onto the decking of the 12/12. Seems I could lay the shingles right over that to me, with felt or W&I lapped over from above. If I use W&I should I use mod bit adhesive over top of SA cap? Mulehide’s instructions are vague.
thanks

Hi,

Felt and shingle it.

overlap the felt and pull out the gun

Thanks guys. did it today. I’ll post pics tomorrow.

http://www.roofing.com/images/topics/7706/img_1241052572.jpghttp://www.roofing.com/images/topics/7706/img_1241052595.jpg

Here’s what we found originally. Nice stuff eh? i guess thats what happens when you shingle a 1/12 and ignore it for 10 years

I’ve dealt with a lot worse than that.You never know what you are going to run into under a flat roof.

[quote=“shangle nailer”]Hi everyone,
I just finished my first SA mod bit roof today, used mulehide. It is a 1/12 pitch, shed roof transitioning to a 12/12 on the top side. I’m wondering if anyone has advice on how to handle the transition area. I’ve already run the mod bit about 25 inches up onto the decking of the 12/12. Seems I could lay the shingles right over that to me, with felt or W&I lapped over from above. If I use W&I should I use mod bit adhesive over top of SA cap? Mulehide’s instructions are vague.
thanks[/quote]

You could do it either way. The best way would be to strip the top of your mod. bit. in with ice & water shield after you nail off the top of mod. bit. with metal cap nails. After that, both ways require that you bring the felt underlayment over top the mod. bit. by at least 6 inches, along with your shingles. Make sure not to put any shingle nails lower than 8-inches above the mod. bit. roof, though more height can be better. You may also need to use a mod. bit. mastic to tack down bottom row of shingles.

Here are the pics. I probably nailed it within 4 or 5 inches of the transition, but i did seal down the bottom 2 courses of shingles.
The other pic is of the front of the house. We had to take the siding off the dormers to replace flashing.
Lefty, the aluminum did come off easy, but didn’t go back on so easy. The locks were all bent up (no fault of ours) and there must be some trick to getting that top piece of siding in on the dormer. You can’t bend it like vinyl or it will crease. We got it but not without a struggle.
Thanks for everyone’s input.

http://www.roofing.com/images/topics/7706/img_1241143218.jpghttp://www.roofing.com/images/default.jpghttp://www.roofing.com/images/topics/7706/img_1241143271.jpg

Oops, thought I attached them

if its got a little slope 3tabs could work.

gweedo.

Gweedo,
Scroll up to the tear of pics.

Gweedo, I have to agree with self employed slave, I tore 3 tabs and water and ice shield from the roof that was there.
I looked at another job today that has a 6 square section of 1.5 in 12 pitch. Has 3 tabs and felt on it now, no leaks inside, and homeowner wants to keep it that way. I don’t feel good about it. It gets lots of sun though, no tree cover at all, gutters will stay clean. I will offer him an upgrade of the self stick mod bit and just tell him I’ll do whatever he wants but I won’t guarantee shingles on a 1.5.