Mod bit rubber memb or asphalt with gravel

Witch is better for flat roof??


mod bit

rubberized membrane

asphalt with gravel


ello cantave,

good question, worthy of good answer.
but first let me change the question just i little bit.

which roof will last longer, without any maintenence?



rubberized membrane

or asphalt with gravel.

it depends on where your roofin first of all.
im over 80 degrees 80 percent of the year, so my answers come from what is found here.

1(the heat really affects rubber and plastics, a 5 - 10 yr roof.

2)torchdown is a 20 plus yr roof, easy.

3)i beleive dibiten is one of the fathers of mod bit.

4)a 3ply, hot tar, fiberglass,(burg) gravel roof is still, in my opinion, the toughest, longest lasting roof out there.


[quote=“cantave”]Witch is better for flat roof??


mod bit

rubberized membrane

asphalt with gravel


What rubberized membrane are you referring to? Asphalt BUR with gravel should be the longest lasting, but the installer needs to know how to build it.

I have a feeling that the dibiten, mod bit, and rubberzed membrane may all be referring to the same product.

first off most mods now manufactured today will not last 20 yrs by them selfs.they need what i would call a set of belt and other words the system installed need to be bolstered by double flashings,basesheets,etc. thermo plastics and epdms(rubber) will last longer than 5-10 years with proper maintenance.(i just inspected a 27 yr old sarnafil roof whic has very minor problems).asphalt today is made by most mfgrs to last 5-8 has been widdled down to a plastisided bunch of junk.this is why most warrantys are not more than 5 yrs.your best bet is coal tar.4 or 5 ply.with gravel.when installed correctly it will last as long as 60 yrs. ctp is really only used on dead level substrates as it runs to low spots when above 80 degrees f .ask to see roofs that are at or near their end of warranty.see which best fits your needs.there is NO such thing as a maintenance free roof period.EVERYTHING we use in life has to be maintained or fixed.when you buy a car do you just drive it till it dies?research is key.the minutes you spend researching will add yrs to roof life

i try to state that its a matter of were your at, if thats the case.
i try not to say things that are not true in other parts of the country.
i have 20+ yr untouched, torchdown roofs on as we speak.
so to say (roofboss) that torchdown cant last 20+ yrs, without statin, " in chitown".
to me that would confuse someone.
and i dont beleive that torchdown doesnt go 20+ in good ol chitown either.
i just cant imagine somethin not holdin up as well in the cold as it does in the burnin hell hole were im at.

if im wrong and the ice melts the torchdown somehow, or breaks it apart,
ice-cycles drop down and poke holes it somehow, than im wrong about torchdown in chitown.

but you can beleive im rite about it, and those others, in tampa bay.


But gweedo, that would be to say that all torchdowns are the same. They clearly are not. I have a four year old torchdown I went on yesterday that I am going to have to polyurea the entire thing because it is embrittled in this short amount of time. Sure aint no derbigum. Now derbi will last 20 years, but you gotta be an approved applicator to buy the stuff.

and i bet that 4 yr old dont have much company.

did you torch it personally.
cause alot a times people mistake a well moped mop grade roof for a torchdown. done it myself.
that would explain your embrittled areas.
the mop grades granuals crumble away as the whole roofs shrinks, in about five years. if the materials edge is back about a half inch off the metal edge, then you have a mop grade.

if its a torch, then again what do you mean by embrittled.