Need to know what to tell my builder w/ picture

The attached picture should show the problem that I am having. The valley pictured gathers all the rain on that side of a gable and flows down off the side of the house onto the ground. This will just create a potential problem with water around the foundation. The only solution I could come up with is to place a rain diverter along the edge so that the water will run down the valley, hit the diverter and then flow into the gutter. Are there any other ways to solve this problem? We get a lot of snow during the winter and the melting snow actually made me aware of this problem as it melted.

http://www.roofing.com/images/topics/9276/img_1269454732.jpg

The diverter is the proper solution. We have this same detail on our office.

I agree that a diverter is the way to go.

diverter will get water back under shingles…unless you use a big pc of metal to go under shingles to prevent water going under shingles…bring a pc of gutter up against the facial board and install a splash guard on the gutter…just my idea…

Well I suppose just saying “a diverter will work” leaves to much to the imagination. You cant just slap a piece of metal up there, especially if it will back the water up at the base of the valley! Should be no problem with a little forethought.

ok then use the diverter…but give it a year and you will have problems. Good luck and post some picture when you get it done…

You could always cut the rake board shorter by a few inches. Then install a diverter that ran under a couple courses/ under the valley. Also add a 2" lip on the left side. That would keep the water free flowing and keep it “above the shingles”. A couple of pieces of copper could be soldered up to look pretty bad- a$$. Just a thought.

Why don’t you remove the valley lmasso just put a diverter there,take a 2 ft piece of gutter,with your razor knife, cut along the inside front and remove front of gutter leaving back and bottom of gutter (L shape)then slide it under shingle done.

I guess you could run a gutter down and compound miter it to other gutter but you may have to replace that gutter too,then put a splash guard

Too bad ya didnt have a open metal valley, bottom of valley metal couldve had the bottom bent up…

I’m starting to lean towards having them redo the valley to be open metal on that side. My fear is getting water underneath with a diverter even though there is I&W shield under there. I would think the open metal valley would be a safer route. I have seen other houses in the area with just the L shaped diverter. Any suggestions on how high the diverter should be?

Also tell your roofer to come back and install the kickout flashing’s that were not installed.
That is and IRC code. Anywhere your roof intersects with a wall a kickout needs to be installed.

[quote=“Stormer”]Also tell your roofer to come back and install the kickout flashing’s that were not installed.
That is and IRC code. Anywhere your roof intersects with a wall a kickout needs to be installed.[/quote]

In my area it is code also.
But the person who wrote the code is an idiot.
Not all bottem of flashings need a kickout.

I have homeowners complain about it all the time and have to make unneeded back trips to the property to explain to them the idiot code.
Why we had to install the ugly, uneeded piece of metal everywhere.

[quote=“roof-lover”]

[quote=“Stormer”]Also tell your roofer to come back and install the kickout flashing’s that were not installed.
That is and IRC code. Anywhere your roof intersects with a wall a kickout needs to be installed.[/quote]

In my area it is code also.
But the person who wrote the code is an idiot.
Not all bottem of flashings need a kickout.

I have homeowners complain about it all the time and have to make unneeded back trips to the property to explain to them the idiot code.
Why we had to install the ugly, uneeded piece of metal everywhere.[/quote]

Can you explain your take of the Idiot code so we can understand from your infinite wisdom that would over ride the code?
When a roof intersects with a wall no matter what type of siding, the water will penetrate under the siding and will cause rot and black mold.

[quote=“Stormer”]

In my area it is code also.
But the person who wrote the code is an idiot.
Not all bottem of flashings need a kickout.

I have homeowners complain about it all the time and have to make unneeded back trips to the property to explain to them the idiot code.
Why we had to install the ugly, uneeded piece of metal everywhere.
Can you explain your take of the Idiot code so we can understand from your infinite wisdom that would over ride the code?
When a roof intersects with a wall no matter what type of siding, the water will penetrate under the siding and will cause rot and black mold.[/quote]

Stormer, it would help if you tried to be nicer and less condescending.

I happen to have a place on my own house where a kickout is needed, but I would agree with roof-lover that not every instance needs a kickout. If the siding is properly cut and lapped, water will stain at worst. However, I think kickouts will benefit almost every installation. Even if there is no rot, stained walls just look nasty.

There is a way without using a kickout flashing, you have to take the siding off.

My question in response to your original query:

How will the current scenario make it worse than if your gutter was catching the rain water and placing it at the bottom of the house?

Many homes have NO gutters and don’t leak at ground level or below. If yours does, then you have much bigger problems than water running/flowing off your roof.