New roof and now soffit does not line up

Excuse my ignorance… I don’t understand roofing nor terms.
I have ranch and we have embarked on a project to extend the bedroom out the back of the house.
This is going 90 degrees from the current roof line.
The GC framed it out and now the new soffit is 6+ inches higher than the existing house soffit. The Architect has it drawn in as they should match up at the existing house soffit.
The GC said its b/c the old roof is 2x8 construction and the new is 2x10. My architect is saying its because the GC didn’t noch the 2x10 deep enough onto the 8 foot outer wall.
They are proposing a solution to extend the soffit out (as it continues down) to match the existing soffit. I am not liking the idea of the extended soffit.
Can someone tell me if the GC should have known this?
Is there other ways to resolve this?
All help is appreciated

I think the GC should have known this. But unfortunately a lot of GC’s are just “jack of all trades, master of none”. The carpenter should have spotted it too.

Unfortunately at this stage you have to devise a plan to make it work, as opposed to tear everything down and start over. Myself I would prefer to have it left 6" above the other roof line and just tie it into the existing roof, as opposed to having a 4 foot overhang.

thanks for the feedback. But now I have 2 gutters, one against the house and 1 on the new edition.
I also have a problem on the other side of the new addition also. All the windows line up nicely and the molding goes right up to the soffit… now on the new addition there will be about 6 inchs of siding its an eye catcher.

Do GC’s (who is also the carpenter) have insurance for this?

Do GC’s (who is also the carpenter) have insurance for this?[/quote]

Insurance is not intended for time outs,do overs and gimmees.Sounds like your GC is in for some experience in lessons learned.Post some pix of your situation.

I am really not trying to put you on the spot Mr.Gambino,always wanted to say that to a Gambino.Any relation by chance? If so or if not you could make him an offer he can’t refuse.

Might depend on the Arch’s attitude too and his attitude towards others. Some are too high and mighty to admit there could possibly be anything wrong with their design and that any un trained monkey can build, roof or plumb it…it takes REAL talent to draw a picture.

More insight please

This all depends.
2x10s are a different depth than 2x8s (duh). If the soffit is to line up it is likely the wall would have to be built shorter. Notching deeper into the 2x10 is not the answer. If you over notch your birds mouth you effectively make the rafter smaller than what it is at the bearing point. Doing this to the 2x10 will make it no stronger than a 2x8. The inspector will fail you for this. A better solution would have been to use 2x8s on 12" centers if it was called for structurally.
It is always good to bring this sort of stuff to the customers attention BEFORE you build it.

Perhaps I’m visualizing this wrong but why can’t the new facia terminate into the existing roof?

It probably can, but I feel the homeowners concern is legitimate, its not whats drawn. People pay architects a lot of money to draw what they want. I’d be pissed if it wasn’t what was on the paper.
The worst situation imo is when its a few inches off and part of the fascia hits the old fascia and part of it hits the roof. Looks like it was unintentional.

the carpenters did a good job lowering the soffit on the new additionand highering the existing by making it shorter. it now matches (give or take an inch). the project is to duplicate this size box on the other side of the house. i am now nervous about the roof rafters laying more on the wall and the knoch being to big. the rafters have to be 10in per code, boing to 8 is not an option.

my gut says this must have been done thousands of time before connecting f2x8 with 2x10 roofs… is this a carpenter or architect issue?


I believe someone already said this here, but I’ll say it again. The rafter size is what determines the wall height. You want your birds mouth to end on the inside edge of the top wall plate. You cannot just take more off the rafter, as this will make it weak. The builder should have accomodated for the extra rafter height by building the wall approximately 2" shorter, or having trusses made with the top chord matching the rafters on the existing house. Its a domino effect that he will remember for the future. We all make mistakes, but its what we do to fix them that seperates reputable contractors from the scum out there. It seems your builder has done a nice job to remedy the situation with you.