New roof - are these problems?

I had my roof replaced a week and a half ago, and after looking around I found some issues that I think could be problems. The roofers replaced all of the sheathing, as the old stuff was weak and delaminating all over, which had led to leaks in several places over the last year and a half on a 6 year old roof. In general I’m happy with the look of the new roof, etc., but with the roofer’s warranty being only five years I’m concerned that some of this may cause problems long-term (or be a red flag if/when we sell the house), and I would appreciate feedback. The company owner said he’s embarrassed about how sloppy some of it is but that it won’t cause any long-term problems and it would cause more damage repairing it than just leaving it. I’m especially concerned about the overhang into the gutter and the gap between some sheathing plywood.

The shingle overhang varies from 1.5" to 2.5" on different sections. The picture shows where it looks like the shingles were bent down into the gutter. No drip edge was used; company owner said they don’t usually do one because they like to make sure the shingles drop well into the gutter and the drip edge doesn’t really do anything when they do that. The felt goes the same distance.
http://www.roofing.com/forum/gallery/image.php?album_id=556&image_id=2153

In at least three places, there is a gap between sheathing pieces of about half an inch. On one of these, the nails from the shingles above are right into the gap, meaning that the shingle is only attached to the felt there (which seems like it could lead to shingle sliding and ripping the felt).
http://www.roofing.com/forum/gallery/image.php?album_id=556&image_id=2151
http://www.roofing.com/forum/gallery/image.php?album_id=556&image_id=2152

The ceiling drywall is obvious; the roofer will have this fixed.
http://www.roofing.com/forum/gallery/image.php?album_id=556&image_id=2157

One of the pipe flashings seems too wide - this pipe was narrower than all the others, so the flashing doesn’t wrap snugly around it. Owner said he could caulk it.
http://www.roofing.com/forum/gallery/image.php?album_id=556&image_id=2155

I haven’t measured the location of the ridge vent relative to the edge of the roof, but you can see that it is not straight relative to the shingles below it. (I’m not that concerned about this, but should I be? Should I measure?)
http://www.roofing.com/forum/gallery/image.php?album_id=556&image_id=2156

At the last 2 feet or so of one ridge, the felt is blocking the ridge vent. On another end the plywood itself goes all the way to the top.
http://www.roofing.com/forum/gallery/image.php?album_id=556&image_id=2154

So, are any of these major and worthy of fussing about?

He needed a 1" collar for the pipe, and not those metal/rubber collars either. When the rubber goes, water pours in. ABS 3-n-1 collar would have been best.
That fishmouth doesn’t look good and could be a sign of more to come.
The vent should have been fully open without felt blocking it.
Is he going to tear that area off and re-install new plywood where they ran it parallel to the rafters? That will sag between the rafters before long and create issues.

In addition to what Tinner said, that first picture is way too much overhang.

It’s a simple fix since it can just be cut off.

Don’t let them “repair” the pipe boot with caulk, use a repair collar of the proper size at the very least.

The nails between the wood is somewhat normal for a plank deck, the may have ( should have?) put in additional nails when they felt the one(s) you see didn’t hit anything.

None of these things are major but they should all be corrected, they are easy fixes.

Thanks tinner and Axiom! I’ve thought about hiring a home inspector to come take a look - these are just the things that I’ve noticed and I really don’t know what I’m looking for, so I’ve possibly missed something.

I don’t really follow you here - do you mean in the last picture where the plywood is running in the wrong direction? He’s not planning on replacing any of the plywood.

I think the rest all makes sense. He or I can cut the felt on the one end of the ridge vent. On the end where the plywood goes all the way to the top, it is only for about two feet (no picture) - would this be worth cutting out, possibly from below?

I will ask him to use a repair collar on the pipe, and to trim back the overhang to 1" or so.

Where the nails miss the wood, I don’t see any other nails going through. Would it be possible to push the shingles above out of the way and put in more nails? Or would it be best to ignore it at this point?

In the first pic, you have an issue there that has been posted on this site many times except in your case you won’t be having the same problems the others did. They did have drip edge installed but it was too small and the gutter was hung too low so the water ran behind the gutter and rotted out the facia boards. Your gutters are hung too low also and the plywood doesn’t come down far enough to the bottom either but because the shingles hang into the gutter and cover all of this it will be fine even though I’m not fond of the scenario. There’s plenty of room in the gutter still so I don’t recommend cutting off any of the overhanging shingles.

A half inch gap between two pieces of plywood is not preferred but in and of itself isn’t going to cause a problem. However, the 3 nails in the pic that went into the gap and missed wood should be pulled out and re-located or they will eventually work themselves out by puncturing through the shingles during the summer months when the shingles are hot and more prone to this happening.

The pipe flashing would be fine for up to ten years with a good sealant like Geo-Cel or NP-1 applied. That’s about all you get out of a neoprene pipe collar anyways. I seal all the pipe collars that I replace where the rubber part fits around the pipe whether they fit well or not just to make sure it never leaks.

Concerning the ridge vent not being straight, it appears to me that the shingles themselves are not straight and the ridge vent just revealed this. Not pretty to look at but it won’t cause any leaks.

Tinner is right about the plywood on the left side of the last pic. The thinner the plywood the more right he is. Plywood has to be installed with the grain going horizontally or it will dip down between the rafters. Usually sooner rather than later. If that is half inch plywood or less there is absolutely no question whatsoever that this will occur.

What centre’s are your trusses on? If 2’ they should have used h clips or blocks. I still use clips on 16" centres.
His crew sucks at sheathing.

Sweet overhang! Maybe you can get a government rebate for creating a raccoon shelter…

That makes sense about the overhang, maybe that’s the best option with the gutters as low as they are. I’ll ask him to remove and re-nail the section that is between the plywood. Would there be concern about damaging the shingles on top when bending them up to do so?

The spacing between rafters is 24", and it is 1/2" plywood. As far as I saw, it’s only that one section that is the wrong way, and 2’ wide, but I guess I’ll head up again and look more closely.

I have a feeling two different people did different parts of the sheathing, somebody who knew what he was doing and somebody else.

At the ends, where the felt covers the ridge I realized it may be because they wanted the shingles to go all the way up along the end of the house (there is also shingle there it turns out). So the ridge vent goes the entire length, but is blocked for the last two feet at each end.

The nails that are in the gap between two sheets of plywood can be pulled out and relocated pretty easily without any damage to the shingles. Locating the right spot on the roof would be the trick. One guy in the attic banging on the underside of the decking with a hammer and another on the roofing following his lead should do the trick.

I once made the mistake of running a 4 ft. by 4 ft. piece of plywood the wrong way during a tear off and replace. ( It was hot and I wasn’t paying enough attention ) Within 3 months it had dipped in pretty badly and the home owner had me back out there replacing it which I had no problem with at all. It was my mistake.

If it’s a really long ridge, then don’t worry about that last 2 feet of ridge vent not being cut out on each end.

i have a feeling they did that much overhang for a reason.

doesnt that gutter system look odd to you. kinda looks low?
maybe its just me but that gutter looks off to me. im kinda thinking they did that for a reason. maybe to cover up how low that gutter looks?

but i agree. this roof isnt horrible. Its not the best but i dont see it not doing its intended job of keeping water out of the house.

take a picture of whats under that over hang just above the gutter.

i cant tell from the pictures but maybe lift those shingles up and see what it looks like.

The bent over shingles at the eaves will begin to delaminate over time,much like when do it your selfers unknowingly use them as ridge cap. A custom made eave flash to span the gap to the gutter would have been an easy solution or at very least they could have raised the gutter to match a standard drip edge. As others have said the vertically run sheathing is a mistake and the lack of h clips and gaps in the sheathing would worry me. Id also wonder about their nailing patterns with the sheathing and shingles which are not visible now. Pipe collar should be replaced with proper size (easy fix), not caulked. Cutting out the felt at the ridge is an easy fix as well. If you can see it from the attic it should be cut out.