New roof on older house in south florida ( gweedo ? )

If the inspector has good words about him, Low-ball guy is probably OK, be sure to get his number. I wouldn’t allow any leaks, but I’d remember the good deal he gave me if I saw a little ding or blemish.

Skylights in Florida scare me because I’ve been hearing that it’s illegal to (step)flash them properly in that state. If there is a way to get the government to let the craftsman do his job, you might get a skylight to hold past ten years. On the other hand, perhaps after ten years the guy has found a good solution.

Good Luck

http://strippingiron.com/Razor_Bar.htm

anyone know if you can over ventilate a attic in south florida ? have 2 turbines that i want to replace with powered ones , ridge vents scare me in s.fl. maybe others think not , but i would rather not have a hole at the top. but soffit has good clearance and with just the turbines now the attic seems ok . but since i will be adding skylight i want to over kill the ventilation , anyone see a side effect of doing so ?

as to skylights i was thinking a self-flashing one and adding support to underside of deck ?http://www.roofing.com/images/topics/7327/img_1234631240.jpg

Many a “self-flashing” has fallen to my spear :twisted: all covered in tar and rotted plywood chunks. No way, skylights need real woven flashing to be reliable in a shingle system. I guess it’s true about Florida.

I would set the skylight in place and strip in the flanges with ice & water shield. Then I would install a saddle on the top side, step flashing on the sides and apron flashing on the bottom. I would do this even though it is supposed to be a self-flashing curb, because this way you can be sure it sheds water and does not develop into a leak issue soon. Also, remember not to use ammonia products on acrylic, and I want to say that silicone causes damage to the domes also. Just don’t use Windex or a similar product to clean the domes. There is a product specifically for cleaning the domes, but its name escapes me right now.

Exactly!!

any florida roofers suggest something else ?

i am the amateur here looking for advise ?

dont know guys, ive been 21 yrs in this biz 3 generations on the east coast of fl. grandpa started in 1950. i think we must be doing something right. we do not step flash, have done some, but its not common here, we get a leak now and then(like you less you lie) but not many. with that said i too have fixed many rotted out sky lights and split levels done wrong. we have always step bulled all penetrations it works for me. most all of our skylights are one piece, get a shingle under and step bull the sides we just dont have problems, maybe the difference is the cold hot factor. we also only use flashing cement seems to stay pliable longer. anyway my 2 cents worth.

[quote=“bkdg100”]any florida roofers suggest something else ?

i am the amateur here looking for advise ?[/quote]

The way Cerberus described is the correct way whether you are in Florida or Alaska.

[quote=“gweedo”]

please no 50 year shingles.
for some reason they crack and crumble up faster than 30s
i dont like 50 yr shingles.
they just put more granuals and tar on the bottom of the shingle, to make it thicker.
when i repair 50 yr roofs they will look good but when you try to lift a shingle they seem to crumble more than when repairiin 30 yr shingle.
i have had to tear off 50s before, they
just crumble up to easy.

i dont like 50s.

gweedo.[/quote]

Correct.

My experiance has been that a 15 year old 50year shingle is almost unrepairable.

Why? because since the shingles are thicker, they lose their flexibility(to repair) and over time turn rock hard.

Lets say a tree limb falls and punctures your roof.
You carefully try to lift the shingles above the damaged area so to tie-in new shingles. The shingles are brittle and break apart.

Then on top of that, the 50 year shingles do not end up lasting 30 years anyway.(in florida)

But if you are shooting for “looks”(a very good reason)
50 year shingles do look better than 30 year.
And could make all the difference when it comes to sell that home.

[quote=“roofbutcher”]

Skylights in Florida scare me because I’ve been hearing that it’s illegal to (step)flash them properly in that state. If there is a way to get the government to let the craftsman do his job, you might get a skylight to hold past ten years.

http://strippingiron.com/Razor_Bar.htm[/quote]

I do need to add that the skylights do not have to be installed before the first inspection.

So yes, you can use step flashing on the skylights.
Only the wall and valley metal have to be installed before the first shingle can be laid.
This all applys to new homes, Not roof replacement.

The “first” inspection on roof replacements is after all the decking has been re-nailed and a small portion of underlayment has been installed.

All that said, 99.9 of all skylights sold here do not have a step flashing kit with it.

I was thinking it was worth much more than 2 cents.
Its a pleasure to meet you roofdoc…

One more step i would like to add that i do.
Before i set my skylight permanately in place,
I take a nail and mark the outside edge of the skylight on the felt. Then i cement the inside perimeter of my marking.
just enough cement that it doesn’t ooze into the shaft and enough that it bleeds out my perimeter markings after i push it down and set it back to its perfect spot.

Hey Lover,
nice to here from you as well. Yes Yes Yes we always embed any penetration in flashing cement. Lead boots, vents, skylights and split levels
as well. I’m sure I’m not as smart as alot of these guys, but I know what works for me.

No.

You only need one power vent.
Unless you want to use the solar powered ones which are less powerful, then use two.

I would agree.

The sides of your hole in the roof deck will be supported by your existing trusses.
You would just need two 2x4s cut to 22 1/2 inches for the top and bottom of the skylight.
plus your frame work for the shaft.

/img

if that is the system you want, ask for a dome curb mount OR a non-glass curbmount.
They come stock as a 2x2 or a 2x4.

look at it before you pay for it so you know you are getting what you want.Different manufactures call their skylights by different terms.

[quote=“roofdoc”]Hey Lover,
nice to here from you as well. Yes Yes Yes we always embed any penetration in flashing cement. Lead boots, vents, skylights and split levels
as well. I’m sure I’m not as smart as alot of these guys, but I know what works for me.[/quote]

Don’t sell yourself so short.

Most of these guys are proud to tell you that they dont think bull should even be on the roof. LOL.

hence my “pleased to meet you”.

man yall should get a motel somewhere bout vero beach.
just kiddin.
glad to see somemore fla posters.
the yankees like to gang up on us around here.

gweedo.

can anyone think of any other holes i need to get in the roof beside my exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchen , sky lights in windowless bathroom . attic vent powered and/or solar . ect .??

hot water heater?
dryer vent?

gweedo.

:wink: I just bid a 30 sq roof,walker two lawyer tareoff with double ice and water pluse two new flashing kits for the skylights at 10300.00 and got it , Will start as soon as the weather brakes

[quote=“gweedo”]hot water heater?
dryer vent?

gweedo.[/quote]

got that .stove vent bathrooms vents laundry room vents couple of skylights , attic vents . anything else if it was your roof ?

[quote=“roof-lover”]

Huh? Why would you expect a step-flashing “kit” with your skylight? Do you get free step-flashing “kits” as part of your shingle purchase?