New Roof - Starter Shingles Missing

I just had a new roof and 2 skylights installed. There were a few issues and now that the company is done, some of the work looks sloppy especially the shingle overhang on the rake edges. While looking at this I noticed the company did not install starter strip shingles along the rake edges which was specified in the contract.

I’m working with the contractor to try to resolve these issues but would like to know what is the proper procedure for installing the starter shingles along the rake edges after the roof has been installed? Is this something that can be done after installation or would all the shingles need to be redone?

Starter strips up the rakes are called bleeders and your roof will be fine without them if there is a drip edge in place.

It’s just not worth it to install them after the fact.

The problem is that there isn’t a metal drip edge in place on the rakes. The drip edge was only installed on the eaves. What would be the best way to have the contractor resolve this?

To install the bleeder shingles he will have to remove & replace some nails along the rake so that the bleeders can be installed, it’s a pita but it’s doable and should be done if there is no drip edge.

You can post pictures using if you have any other questions about the installation.

Many pros shingle in a vertical line up the roof because it’s much faster. Known in the trade as “vertical racking” or “staggering”, this method enables the roofer to install a single column of shingles all the way to the peak, without the wasted back-and-forth motion necessary to fill several rows of stair steps. Not only that, the shingles can be piled just to the side of the column being laid. This saves a lot of time moving shingle bundles—and a lot of back strain. After completing a column, the roofer can go back down to the eave edge of the roof and start laying the next column of shingles.

Both step shingling and racking will yield a watertight roof. You won’t void your warranty by going with the racking method, but with some manufacturers, you’d have trouble collecting a settlement on two specific problems: “pattern-curling” and “shadowing” (color blending).

Pattern curling is caused by the roofer having to lift the end tab of every other shingle to install the last shingle nail in the end of the next shingle. Because the bending can stress and deform shingles (especially in cold weather), the ends of those shingles may warp over time, creating a prominent pattern on the roof. If this happens, you’re out of luck collecting on a warranty if your shingle manufacturer doesn’t approve of racking.

Shadowing is the patchwork appearance caused by subtle color differences among different bundles of shingles. The problem is usually worse with racking because all the shingles from one bundle wind up in vertical rows. If the adjacent shingles come from other bundles that are a slightly different color, the roof may look patchy—even striped. The stair-step method tends to spread and mix the bundles better. Prevent shadowing by checking to make sure all the bundles have the same lot number on the wrapper, not just the same color. However, some manufacturers’ color blends are so consistent that they don’t have or need lot numbers.

The poster never gave any indication that the shingles were racked. All they did is ask about installing some missing starter shingles on a rake (which I also think is an unnecessary upsell).


It needs bleeders because it has no drip edge on the rakes.

We run breeders up the rake because it’s the norm here, doesn’t do anything. I wouldn’t tear up a roof to install them. Drip edge would be a simpler retrofit

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The contractor has agreed to remove and replace any shingles necessary and install the bleeders and fix our other issues. The shingle overhang was not cut straight which will be resolved as well by doing this. They also agreed to double their workmanship warranty. Luckily we hired a reputable company. Thanks for all the information.

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