New roof with dipped ridge line

Hi. I just had a new roof installed. Work was completed last night, and I just took my first walk around the house.

It’s an older home. Our plank decking had developed a number of sizable gaps, so we had all of the decking replaced with OSB. I thought they were just going to lay the OSB over the existing decking, but they removed the old decking first.

My concern is that the ridge is not completely straight. The ridge dips in from the edge for about a foot and then levels off. The edge of my ridge is higher than my ridge vent. Is this okay?

Also, there are places below the shingles above the rakes where the decking is visible from the ground.

Here is the OSB decking visible above the rake.

Kinda shocked you dont have eave metal. 2012, Code requires eave or drip edge. That OSB edge will swell over time. I would see about getting some installed.

The decking issue at the ridge could have been there before, but not as noticeable. With 3/4 plank decking pulled off, the OSB which is less than 1/2, more like 13/32, is slightly thinner and will sink below the fascia and your cornice work. It is lifted on top of the barge rafter or sat on top of your fascia.

Now that the decking is on, a good roofer could take ridgevent and install it to eliminate the visual dip. Ive done it many times to hide sinful sags.

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My contract with the roofer doesn’t specifically mention drip edge. Is it reasonable for me to insist that they install some to cover the exposed OSB?

Is it possible to install drip edge and keep the decorative moulding that is on the house now?

If I understand you correctly, the peaking at the edge of the ridge line can be hidden or deemphasized by extending the ridge vent all the way to the roof edge.

The ridge vent is not a concern. Seriously, don’t worry about that dip. Edge metal, that’s a different story……if he didnt mention edge metal in the contract, you didn’t buy it. End of story. Should you have it? For sure. But your contractor clearly didn’t give a shit or he would have either specifically mentioned it or just installed it.

It’s extremely hard to install after the fact. The only good way to do it is to slip it under the shingles and screw through the face with metal roofing screws. Can you lift up shingles and nail under? Sure. If the shingles are warm enough, but you risk some damage. Along the gable edge, if they nailed properly, you will have to pull a massive amount of nails.

If you choose to undergo this unpleasant process, be sure to choose a metal with a 4” flange on the roof deck side. With the crown molding, you wont even reach to the decking with standard 2”. This is called 2x4 gutter apron. I recommend 2x4 gutter apron for everything, you don’t need special gable metal, it’s just unnecessary.

Don’t call your original contractor to do this. You’ll just end up hating each other.

The metal on the eaves is far more important, so if you have to choose, at least do that. Best of luck!

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