Peel n Stick Inquiry

Where would you suggest I buy peel n stick material for flat roof repair? Are there different kinds to look out for and any preferences based on experience? Does it adhere to various types of material? Any other suggestions, suppliers, names of peel n stick, etc would be appreciated.

Reparing flat roof in desert country that has experienced triple the amount of our usual rain levels and even raining hard today. El Nino seems to be upon us that we have not experienced in years…all flat roofs out here are leaking it seems, even the businesses…new or not.

Thanks for all your previous help and suggestions as I get closer to doing this - once it stops raining for a while (hoping we will not get rain for years afterwards like our usual 3-7" annual rain)…hoping to do this before cooler weather hits for good.

What kind of roof are you trying to repair? The type of roof you are trying to repair will have a great bearing on what type of material you need to use to repair the roof.

rolled 36" shingle roofing up to the brick top edges on a flat roof that has lasted many years due to no rain…a lot of other roofs in my area/city have rock roofs which presents more problems…we are all okay unless we get a lot of rain like recently. FEMA even declared our county and area a disaster area.

So everyone’s roof is fine…until it rains?

We are roofers…we MUST laugh at this. :smiley:

A famous roofing quote:

It only leaks when it rains!

Seriously, I don’t know what rolled shingle roofing is, and I have never seen a rock roof except on the Flintstones. What I think you must be talking about is a granule-surfaced modified bitumen roof versus a stone-aggregate surfaced built-up roof. Personally, I wouldn’t use a peel-and-stick membrane to repair either of those roofs, at least not if you plan on the repair being long term.

Do yourself a favor and hire a roofing contractor to repair your roof. If you don’t even know what kind of system you have, how can you expect to properly repair the roof?

search peal and stick and your town on your computer.
somethin should come up.


thus my dilemma/experience to clarify: hire a so-called professional roofer you have problems afterwards long after they are gone and warranty over, do it yourself, even though you do not know the proper terms, it turns out right just by using common sense taking better care…like I have done. Instead of wasting money on labor I make up for it with materials/solutions. My current roof on one house replaced has held up for almost 15 years and other house (with a pitch that use to have white rock replaced myself with shingles has lasted apx 20 years)…with my upkeep. neighbors have been less fortunate replacing/repairing their roofs with so-called roofing companies at least 5-6 or more times during this same time period at apx 5,000 and more. One neighbor even had his fixed again 4 years ago with so-called professional roofer at 4,000 and he has many leaks currently…I only have two little ones on one roof. You are right cerb I might not know the proper terms but feel anything I do would be much better than wasting money on an improper so-called professional roofer job that lays hot tar down. Thus you can see my mistrust of roofing companies. not sure of proper name but these 36" rolls are for sale at Home Depot/Lowes etc for apx 25.00…my only proper & real permanent solution is to have a pitch built like another neighbor did, which I will do at some point if I stay here. architecture is different out here from what we had back in Tennessee…we also have (swamp) coolers full of water on top of our roofs too, not air conditioners. Flat roofs allowing for a good view…this year was unusual due to the 50 and 100 year storms that hit…in El Paso some businesses/residences/vehicles washed away down the street etc. Then we might go years w/o any rain while the very hot heat takes a toll.

Yet, you come to a site filled with roofing contractors (except me) for advice?

Where in Tennessee are you from? I have family in Smithville, right on Centerhill lake. I also went to school at UT Knoxville, and lived in Murfreesboro for awhile.

As for doing the work yourself, it wouldn’t hurt if you added some photos for us to give you the advice you are looking for.

Are there any successful roofs in your area? If not, you may have a shortage of qualified licensed roofers.

What are the 36 inch rolls you speak of? Mineral surfaced roll roofing? APP modified bitumen? SBS modofoed mitumen? Ice and water barrier?

I know Home Depot sells APP here, GAF Ruberoid to be exact, and it isnt anything like roll roofing, except that it comes in a roll.

iknow those big BLUE roofs come in rolls too!! so does duct tape

what was the latest question again gstrawn?

and uh , cerb,
i think hes in new mexico.


[quote]and uh , cerb,
i think hes in new mexico. [/quote]

Lives in New Mexico, but if you read the post you will notice they said they are from Tennessee.

my bad.


I do not consider SA to be a viable system unless you have a 2/12 pitch and no gutters, parapets, or drains. Even then, youre relying on a sticky memnrane for waterproofing, instead of a heat welded seam.

I am not a fan of the goop except in temporary stop-gap situations when youre temporarily relying on in for watertightness and the system allows it.

Family from Memphis area primarily - a few in Franklin, and way back we had migrated to Bells. Went to Memphis State and UT Knoxville for a while.

Why did I come to this site…I came to this sight because I trust you all back east and elsewhere dealing with much more weather than we do out here…and many more other conditions than out here in this state that does not have many built in protections or experience I feel, not to mention a possible problem with reliable qualified labor with many being forced to hire laborers from Mexico just to compete against other companies…I trust most of you all are professionals and I value your advice/opinions with your sincere best experienced opinion to help all that ask. I was told after I make repairs a roofer with hot tar would probably come over for $400 or so to mop seams…like one friend had done.

How do you post pictures - I have 5-6 good ones to show as an idea.

I posted on another thread that I thought there was a shortage of qualified roofers in your area. Look man, I’m with Aaron, I too believe in this self adhering stuff on exactly a 2/12 pitch with no protrusions. Anyone with roofing experience can not rely on its adhesion for any truly flat roofing surface, and I go the extra steps with it and use the rubber roller and roll in the seams and perimeter, and lay it with a blow drier which you will not need in New Mexico, but I only trust it so far. When I do use self adhering, I’ve noticed that between Certainteeds Flintlastic and GAF’s Liberty Cap, Liberty Cap seems to be more pliable and lays flatter, i.e. no leaky fish mouths.

Aside from that, flat roofs are the hardest to repair as a novice. Even if you know where the leak is, knowing what kinds of materials work with eachother is a lot of the battle. I very often will teminate materials of a repair with metal flashed in the appropriate materials on both connections. You say that you have done 2 successful roofs on your own, but I have to doubt they were flat roofs. Repairing flat roofs is an entity in and of itself aside from general roofing. Do yourself a favor and pick a viable roofing product for your project and then find your roofers through the manufacturers and get back to us. Thats all I can suggest. Hope it helps.