When it rains, a portion of the side of my house gets soaked. Below is a the photo of the leakage during a rain shower. Notice that the leak is a couple feet inward from the gutter, so it is not a drip edge problem…
One can simply slide the tiles up and remove easlily in most scenarios, depending on location and install. Very easy to just follow the source of water trail and see where it is coming from. Probably just debris build up beneath causing water flow to be diverted unnaturally/incorrectly.
I know when we do tile we use metal for valleys, even when the valley is closed as yours is. If your valley has metal I doubt it’s the valley that is leaking. And if your valley is leaking, you would have more water spots than what is just on your stucco. Curious, are those water droplets on the bottom of your gutter, or peeling paint?
When using “nail down” tile caps we’ll put a strip of P&S leak barrier down the hip as your house has.
I think it’s getting past your drip edge (if there is any) and running behind your gutter.
I assumed a drip edge is not needed because the tile is hanging adequately over the gutter. I guess I should use a garden hose to flow water to the lowest tiles. If the same leak happens, then it must be the lack of drip edge. If the leak does not occur, I will just keep moving the hose upward one tile at a time until the leak occurs.
I also assumed a drip edge is not needed because the drenched wall is a couple feet behind the gutter.
I do not think the leak is in the valley.
I think it is a broken tile on row two or three.
right where the ladder is at.
If not so, then i believe it to be the hip.
Under hips and ridges, I always have put morter under the tile to support it, fill it , giving it a true foundation and blocking the water out.
Its very time consuming…
Also i would use the correct color chalk to mix with the morter to have good asthetics.
Dont forget knowing the exact chalk to mix ratio with whatever amount you happen to get mixed up which is only good for a short amount of time.
Then jump up that ladder at the speed of light and shape that morter to perfection.
You would be close to the correct morter mixture(without talking about colors) when your trowel can be turned upside down without your morter falling off to some degree.
i am curious about the fastening system for this roof.
if they used nails or screws than you will be able to lift the bottems of the tiles at least a couple inches.
if they used a morter or spray adhesive than they will feel locked into place.
And did they use battan/firring/1x2 strips across the roof to fasten the tiles into or none?
First of all, where the rake tile nests on the last hip tile, there needs to be a lead soaker sheet that goes over the top (head) of the last hip tile and then under the lower (nose) portion of the first rake tile and out on to the adjoining field tile. This detail needs to be repeated at any other location on your roof where this condition exists.
As far as the notion of “no drip edge needed,” I contend that this is a very bad idea and drip edge is a requirement per the Tile Roof Institute (as is bird stop).
It looks to me that you have neither drip edge nor any sort of bird stop / eave riser with weep holes to properly elevate the first course of tile at the eaves and promote the free flow of intruding moisture out from under the the concrete tile roof system and into the gutters (no matter what you read or hear, tile roof systems are not ON THEIR OWN completely water tight as they DO NOT SELF-SEAL).
Without knowing what is actually there, I would guess that you have some sort of wood blocking or raised eave board that is elevating the first course of tile and causing a water dam and then causing penetrating rain water to be blocked at the eaves.
Also, your valleys do not extend just past the eaves allowing the water collected in them to pass directly into the gutter system. This condition would leave the valley ends vulnerable to water eddying back around your eave and then down to the soffit. Furthermore, there appears to be a lack of a centered “splash fin” that is at least as high as the profile of the tile. Not having the center splash fin can promote water “jumping” across the middle of the valley and over the extended flange of the valley on the opposite side.
Last, you’ve got some seriously long runs of gutters without corresponding downspout outlets. Judging by the lack of downspouts in the picture provided it is quite possible that the inside corner of the gutters is at a high elevation of your downspout run and water is piling into the valley and is displaced up into the roof deck / eave / soffit and is not draining quick enough.
Thanks guys. I took a garden hose to the roof. I found a cracked tile in the valley. When I injected water into the crack, the leak reappeared. Here is a photo of the crack. Notice the triangle crack…
