Questions About the cone roof

hi everyone
just need some advices on how to do the cone roof with the tite-lok shingles.
how to make it perfect?

thank you

If your talking about a conical turret it will not be a suitable roof for T-locks. on these roofs the courses have to be shoulder cut and get smaller as they go up. you can make it look better with a tab shingle, you have to run a string from the apex and use it to scribe your lines for exposure and to give you your cut patten.

thanx roofer j

it is conical turret, by the way, you say it will be possible to do it with tite-loc right? cuz right now the rest of house has tite-lok, i am thinking it might look better if i use tite-loc too.
i understand the tab shingle are way easier.
i just don’t get it how to start for the bottom

thank you

"i just don’t get it how to start for the bottom "

Do like RJ said, put a large nail dead center in the top of the cone point. Then tie a piece of string around it that is long enough to reach to the eave of the cone.

Now mark straight up the cone with your tape measure. But to get your actual lines you are going to pull your string tight, then mark your string where it touches the mark you made on the roof with your tape.

Now…use a lumber crayon or even a nail and hold it to the mark on your string. Keeping the string tight and your crayon level, swing the string around the cone in an arc (like a compass) and get your circular lines that way.

Now figuring in your overhang mark the eave in two spots the width of the bottom of your first course. Then measure up the roof the full length of your chosen roofing material (ie. 17" for an 18" slate if using a 1" overhang)

Now run your chalk line from that nail in the top of the cone and pop two lines (like verticals for a 3-tab shingle) using the two marks you made on the eave for your first course.

You will now have trapazoid shape chalked on the roof. This is the size of your first course.


When using ridgid materials such as slate it’s adviseable to start running felt (or synthetic) underlayment between the courses much like you would running wood shakes over battens as the seams just get too close together to keep water out. Also I’d advise a dot of tar on the bottom, underside of each slate when they get small enough that you have to cut them with a grinder as this will keep them in place should they crack in the years to come because they will be next to impossible to replace.

Also worth noting is that you need to watch the thickness of the material used. While that 1/2" slate might look nice 3/4s of the way up the spire roof you are going to find you’re screwed when your circumference gets tight and a round roof turns into an octagon.

Tar on slate is taboo.The thing to use is red slaters cement. Bulldog still makes it. Conical turrets also look great done in standing seam. T-lock shingles I dont think will look good or apply very easily.


Why is modified cement taboo on slate? Much as I hate using goop this info is new to me.

I mean personal choice or detrimential reaction of some sort?

I dont even know if it is possible with all the cuts you will have to make. I dont care for those shingles to begin with.

black cement can bleed and its a bitch to take it apart and save your slates. Like in a vally job we typicly number the slates pop them out put in new underlayment and vally flashing and the same slates are reused with new copper slaters nails. with black cement its a lot harder.
Red cement is the right product for the application.


Ok, I’ve seen red cement bleed if it’s not completely dried before rain hits it which is why I’ve always disliked it. I understand what you mean about modified cement bleeding and while I wouldn’t use it to “repair” a slate roof I still think a dime sized dot on the back of a tiny slate is ok. Another reason I use modified is because the Karnak-19 comes in caulk like tubes and goes on faster and neater than trying to trowel a small dot. I’ll check the red cement out on the next one maybe, not like you get a spire to do everyday.