Tyger2, I’m in Austin & have done some San Antonio work (2 story, 9:12 & 10:12, 2 squares of CertainTeed FlintLastic on 1:12. This was in Alamo Heights, built in 1904 as the most recent one… had to be approved by an historical review board).
What we really need to know is the size (squares), pitch & any ‘special considerations’ that would affect the roof load in regards to any special charges. House photos really help us out for a lot of your questions.
When I get the question about thickness / 30, 40 or 50 year shingles, my typical answer is a question: How long do you intend to retain the house? If you’re going to live there for 20+ years then it does make sense however if you’re going to possibly sell within 10 then you won’t get the kind of return you’re hoping for because a new buyer probably may not care about the roof like you apparently do.
ALSO keep in mind that a 50 year Elk or CertainTeed roof will get algae stains just as easily as a 20 year 3 Tab. That means your high dollar investment might look like total junk just as soon as any other roof that’s installed this year.
- There are things that can be done to slow down or prevent the algae staining. Shingle Shield or Zinc Strips, IMO, are a better investment than the upgrade to a 40 or 50 year product. * *
Nail size: The requirement by most codes is to have the nail penetrate THROUGH the roof deck by about 1/4". They aren’t ringshank - they’re smoothe bore. IMO, the longer nail is better however you are fine provided they penetrate correctly.
I am a lead jack man, myself. I’ve never ever heard of a reaction with PVC & have had some roofs that are 30 years old look great in the pipe penetrations (where the rest of the roof looked 5 years past it’s lifespan).
I use DL Drip Edge (some call it T Drip) & put it all over the house - eaves, rakes, etc. Even where there’s a gutter, this will help in a lot of ways.
Cricket: If you for some reason need a new one, the cost for a cricket will depend on whether or not there’s mortar work to do (or siding) & the width of the chimney / pitch of your roof. Here in Austin, a 6’ wide chimney will run you around $ 225.00 on the high end for a new cricket. Expect @ least the same cost for siding or mortar work if the old one needs to be removed & the new one installed / reset.
Marshal is correct in his warranty comments; I provide a ‘standard’ warranty of 7 years provided the customer uses all the products I request, 5 years if it’s a ‘base’ (stripped) installation. Coincidentally, I usually expect a “poly boot” / 3 in 1 to last around 5 years.
You can try to look for someone who is factory authorized to provide a transferrable warrantee (this will require you to use a specific series of products & install them in a specific way). Often, the cost of the factory warranty is what the cost is for the improved product selection. Not always, but often. You must, must, MUST make sure that if they’re selling it that they *really are *factory authorized & that they actually do the registry.
Note: I am NOT factory certified / authorized in any capacity with any shingle manufacturer.
Hope that helps your situation from a Texas perspective.