Re-roofing home questions

Hi: I am obtaining quotes on reroofing my home in south Texas (San Antonio area). I have a few question because I am obtaining different responses from the contractors.

  1. Should I get 30 year 40 year shingles? Cost difference is about $800.00
  2. Best brand of shingles for this area. Seems like Owens Corning to the brand that is being marketed.
  3. Nail size. I was told various sizes from 1 1/4"to 1 7/8". Which size to be used for reroofing.
  4. The type of vent flashing: I was told for the long run that lead should be used but I was also advised that animals sharpen their teeth on the lead vent flashing. I was also told the the nepoprene vent flashing last only 5 years. Which would you choose?
  5. One contractor wanted an option to add $600 cost to the contractor if the truck could not load the shingles on the roof. Is this normal.
  6. What should be the coments regarding the existing flashing? I do have a valleys and a cricket.
  7. Should a drip edge flashing be installed around the gables and gutters?
  8. What should be the warranty.

Any other comments would be appreciates.


Is the old roof being torn off?

Yes, the old roof will be torn off.

  1. Should I get 30 year 40 year shingles? Cost difference is about $800.00

If you feel you need more wind resistance or desire a thicker textured look go with the 40 yrs.
Otherwise go with the 30’s.

  1. Best brand of shingles for this area. Seems like Owens Corning to the brand that is being marketed.

I prefer Certainteed products since I never have issues with them.
Owens Corning Durations appear to be pretty good but here they cost more and the cap costs considerably more…
The Oakridge series should be avoided.
I don’t like GAF products at all for several reasons, But this is just my opinion, many here will tell you they are great…

1 1/4" will be fine

I normally use galvanized based boots with a rubber seal.
Lead is much better but along with the animals chewing on it I have seen them react with PVC pipe.

He wants to get paid for the additional labor of having to carry all of the shingles, this is normal.
Cost will vary depending upon many factors such as 1 story vs 2, distance carried, size & pitch of roof, etc

Valleys, walls and crickets are all common details that any roofer should have no problems with.

I always use t-drip around the full perimeter of the roof as is common in my area.
Use of drip edge seems to vary by region and it is not required for manufacturer warranty.
If you have aluminum facia you should definitely use a drip edge since the drip edge is what holds the top of the facia in place.

I provide 10 yr workmanship warranties on all full installs
2 years on all repairs and any shingle overs.
You should expect a minimum of 2 yr.

take all warranties at face value as they are only “words coming out of someones mouth who you have never met.” i agree that owens corning are junk. i have seen them bleed color badly. we use drip around the full perimeter as well (it is regional).

Tyger2, I’m in Austin & have done some San Antonio work (2 story, 9:12 & 10:12, 2 squares of CertainTeed FlintLastic on 1:12. This was in Alamo Heights, built in 1904 as the most recent one… had to be approved by an historical review board).

What we really need to know is the size (squares), pitch & any ‘special considerations’ that would affect the roof load in regards to any special charges. House photos really help us out for a lot of your questions.

When I get the question about thickness / 30, 40 or 50 year shingles, my typical answer is a question: How long do you intend to retain the house? If you’re going to live there for 20+ years then it does make sense however if you’re going to possibly sell within 10 then you won’t get the kind of return you’re hoping for because a new buyer probably may not care about the roof like you apparently do.

ALSO keep in mind that a 50 year Elk or CertainTeed roof will get algae stains just as easily as a 20 year 3 Tab. That means your high dollar investment might look like total junk just as soon as any other roof that’s installed this year.

    • There are things that can be done to slow down or prevent the algae staining. Shingle Shield or Zinc Strips, IMO, are a better investment than the upgrade to a 40 or 50 year product. * *

Nail size: The requirement by most codes is to have the nail penetrate THROUGH the roof deck by about 1/4". They aren’t ringshank - they’re smoothe bore. IMO, the longer nail is better however you are fine provided they penetrate correctly.

I am a lead jack man, myself. I’ve never ever heard of a reaction with PVC & have had some roofs that are 30 years old look great in the pipe penetrations (where the rest of the roof looked 5 years past it’s lifespan).

I use DL Drip Edge (some call it T Drip) & put it all over the house - eaves, rakes, etc. Even where there’s a gutter, this will help in a lot of ways.

Cricket: If you for some reason need a new one, the cost for a cricket will depend on whether or not there’s mortar work to do (or siding) & the width of the chimney / pitch of your roof. Here in Austin, a 6’ wide chimney will run you around $ 225.00 on the high end for a new cricket. Expect @ least the same cost for siding or mortar work if the old one needs to be removed & the new one installed / reset.

Marshal is correct in his warranty comments; I provide a ‘standard’ warranty of 7 years provided the customer uses all the products I request, 5 years if it’s a ‘base’ (stripped) installation. Coincidentally, I usually expect a “poly boot” / 3 in 1 to last around 5 years.

You can try to look for someone who is factory authorized to provide a transferrable warrantee (this will require you to use a specific series of products & install them in a specific way). Often, the cost of the factory warranty is what the cost is for the improved product selection. Not always, but often. You must, must, MUST make sure that if they’re selling it that they *really are *factory authorized & that they actually do the registry.

Note: I am NOT factory certified / authorized in any capacity with any shingle manufacturer.

Hope that helps your situation from a Texas perspective.

Note: I am NOT factory certified / authorized in any capacity with any shingle manufacturer.


however RHR roofing is yellow rose approved

i was tryin to think of a good short reply to
this thread.
but i can see its impossible.

just get a good roofer ya trust and
do what he says.


Is there something you’re going to try & tell my wife?


roofing is yellow rose approved

Is there something you’re going to try & tell my wife?[/quote]

if your wife is any of them :shock: