Replace this flashing?

Need to get a re-roof from hail damage. Should I insist that this flashing be replaced as part of the job? Some proposals say “no need to replace, nothing is wrong”, others say “rip it out and do it right”. Is there anything wrong with keeping this flashing, i.e. is it good or bad?

Thanks in advance for the input,


Yes that looks horrible. WHom ever did that show be ashamed. That is just poor quality and workmanship. Looks like flash cards glued to the wall. I would like a nice 1 piece counter flashing myself.

In Germany we replace the flashing. This way is right. What i see is not from long time.


Closer pictures would be nice. From what I can see here is what I would do.

Do not use anyone who says “there is nothing wrong with that flashing”.

Putting looks aside. It is installed wrong. It has to leak.

The others that say replace it. Find out why they are replacing it. If they can not tell you why it will leak. I would question their ability too.

Sometimes if the counterflashing is in good shape and its well built into the mortar (1-2 inches deep) then i might decide to leave it .

If this only goes 1/2 inch in i agree to replace it with a single piece .

I like to put some sealer on the backside of my counterflashing as overkill :wink:


srry double posting

to answer your question i did some picture editing

Hope this helps

Dangit picture got formatted and lost text :

top picture text says :

Water can leak thru each step

bottom picture text says :

A new diagonal counterflashing will look way better then this

i agree with Lefty and would replace the flashing.

Here is one example of better flashing.
click for imageimglink
You can click on this pic for more roof flashing examples. Good and bad.


Welcome to Dallas Tx

Like usual Dennis must show his fambulous work off to the rest of us to be in awe.

Hey Dennis how come you didnt line the wood gutter with a copper liner?

Depends on your budget and if it is leaking or not. It is installed wrong, it does look like crap. When it’s done right you will need some pointing in that area because the existing reglets are too long.

Thanks for the candid responses, that is exactly what I was looking for. I will get a better close up later today. Best I can tell, it is not leaking. I have a pretty liberal budget, so I am willing to pay for someone to do it right. Unfortunately, I don’t know what right is. Does anyone have some nice references, written or pictures, as to types and proper methods of flashing? This is great guys!


Where are you from.

This work is a standard flashing concept in Dallas TX

Older homes and newer homes, this is the type of step and counter flashings that are being completed on over what I would “guestimate” to be over 90% of the homes. No corners are folded or wrapped and in most cases stick out of the corner of siding work and past brick corners. Leaving wind blown rains a flange basically to catch and be pulled into the house. Caulking in heat will last ??? Varies from north to south. Needs to always be maintained!

Just because its not leaking today, a small leak takes time to become noticeable. It has to deteriorate the plywood first, then insulation and then drywall. Wind blown rains are also dependant on directional rains.

The bricklayers are completing the flashings and not the roofer!!!

The flashings are 2-3 inches into the mortar as they are just using oversized step flashing to complete the counter flashings

Step flashings are also missing under soffit to shingle over hangs in the 2nd photo posted

Bottom line, poor workmanship!


Replace all existing step flashing with new roof (since your getting a new roof) but complete the step flashings as required by SMCA (Sheet Metal Contractors Association)
You can use the flashings embedded into the mortar but suggest covering them with a new counter flashing that is complete and solid

That is the easiest most effective way out of this dilemma

Thanks Reg for posting this…Talk soon R-

Grinding in new lead is the way to go. has to have a good overlap and wrap corners. it also has to go under soffitt.

Sad thing is, you cant get lead down here

You cant even walk into the suppliers here and get a 50ft roll of copper. Min purchase is 500lbs or 500 ft

Paint Grip is a standard name for a paintable galvanized locally. Standards are painting to match trims…ok…I can go with it but…would prefer to use the Kynar finish metal and yes would need to cut new riglets for solid piece of counter. Lead plugs for anchors

Normally would step to the mortar but on this house, since the so called counter is already embeded two or more inches into the mortar, a solid conterflashing over this mess would be the most effective way out of this (after fixing step flashings)


To Lefty - Dallas/Ft. Worth area.

LR home solutions has looked at this in person, but suggested I post to the forum to get additional professional opinions. Unfortunately, only two bids out of five, besides LR, really indicated that it should be replaced, the others it was per my suggestion. I am not sure what quality of product and workmanship would be installed even by those that suggested replacement. I guess I will have to get references and go look at the work or ask specifically what they would do.


Use 16oz copper, you should be able to get it in 3’x8’ sheets. Also a good roofer should be able to do the small amoutn of pointing in that area. We always fill our reglets with mortar anyways, then return in a few days to paint the mortar with a clear silicone mortar sealant.

*Nodding off bad, lol 4hrs sleep is not enough.


That’s not a gutter. There is a piece of crown moulding missing, (roof got hit by a tree), that the carpenter had yet to replace. :slight_smile:

For those interested in a better picture.

Close-up 1 of flashing

Close-up 2 of flashing

Definitely looks like water could get up behind counter and step flashing. If the counter flashing needs to be removed, how can new counter flashing be attached?