Were did all the rot about dry rot come from anyway? Is wet rot Ok? Termites ? Non-union carpenters ants? (union carpenter ants don’t do much of anything). Broken rafters? Wrong color of plasti-caps to hold down the underlayment?
All my proposals are “wood work included”
I dont want the stress of the homeowner to be be on how much they are going to be further Charged.
I want my homeowner to know the exact dollar they are paying before they say yes.
The woodwork is included in the price.
I give the sticker shock one time.
I dont want to have to do it twice.
After they say yes the first time,
I want it to be smiles from there on out.
If i met a customer that thought his decking was weak or possibly dry-rotted…
Then i would only offer a full re-decking along with the roof. And again , everything would be included in the price up front.
After they say yes,
Now its non stop impressing time.
Going over and above on everything.
Showing pics and showing the homeowner
The ten leaks they didnt know they had.
When im done, they feel very appreciative.
Does that make your prices more expensive than your competitors?
How accurately can you tell by walking on the roof how much dry rot or similar wood damage there is?
We add a min of 200 dollars into the price for woodwork and that is if we think there is nothing.
Many times i am wrong and we will still use 2-3 sheets.
If we see right away there is wood work To do
Than there is a bunch we dont see
And it might be around 5-6 sheets and some fascia board replacement.
How much would your 2-3 sheets costs using the following prices,
which are copied from one of my bids?
1x4 , 1x6 = $8.00/ft 1x8,1x10 = $10.00/ft 2x4:
2x6:= $12.00/ft 2x8, 2x10 = $14.00/ft
15/32 Plywood = $3.85 per Sq.Ft.
I think the prices are fair.
I wouldnt present it this way because i feel i would scare the home owner.
So just 20 feet of 1x6 fascial and three sheets of plywood would be about 520 dollars.
It would cost me 200.
So I would make An extra 320.
So keep in mind doing it this way,
You could easily get a 1000 dollar Additional wood bill.
Personally, when i say i Just add it in to the price, i truly only make enough to recover what i pay out.
i Just hate giving the homeowner the bad news of an extra bill at the end of the job.
They are not ecstatic about the beauty and timeliness of the job.
They are stressed about the wood bill
And how many feet were actually installed verses purchased.
And thinking that their wood bill was too much.
Now they are not being appreciative
And are not happy about telling everyone they know about you.
I appreciate you explaining how you don’t charge for wood repairs.
Before you said that I had assumed that only dishonest roofers included dry rot repairs, so to steer clear of them.
I have a new roofer coming out to give me a bid on Tuesday.
If I ask the roofer to find dry rot where others have suggested around vents or where a single has blown off. Let’s assume he finds some and can give me a guess as to what it will cost.
Would I be able to confirm if there is dry rot?
I watched some youtube videos about finding obvious dry rot,
places where it is soft if you push hard with your foot.
Or could there be dry rot
and you can’t tell until you take the old shingles off?
If it is soft where you push down,
But there is no leak
Than likely the entire deck is almost the same way. Just a thinner, old decking.
An old thin decking will feel very soft between every truss.
There are Many roofs i have done where i tell them,
This roof has a weight limit.
As in NO 2 hundred pounders on this roof.
And any person nearing 250 would surely be snapping boards.
I talk to them about this upfront.
If you are feeling a bunch of soft spots and there is no leak.
Then please just ask upfront for a full deck over.
Dont wait until he tears the shingles off to
Dont run around the roofer the whole time saying “what about this spot”
“What about this spot”
“What about this spot”
And If hes going to do a re-decking,
He needs to be ready to do it the Very second the shingles are torn Off.
I would already know exactly how many sheets i need, the labor to do it and the exact price to give you upfront.
Ok ok ok, i am willing to share a secret with everyone.
When ever i have a weak deck, i feel this is necessary for the homeowner.
I cut up strips of 26g valley metal and install it with my roofing nail gun.
It works very well.
It took me a long time to find this pic.
I hope you all appreciate it.
Yesterday I had two different roofer salesman came out and went up on the roof to do a bid.
When I asked about dry rot spots they both mentioned that there were five or six places.
But I have no leaks and live in a mobile home where everything is made very cheaply.
Is it possible that neither one of them had ever been on a mobile home which I think is true and they don’t really know the difference in the mobile home roof?
Perhaps I don’t have any dry rot?
Here are several pictures I took from the top of the ladder. I didn’t want to go up on the roof because I was not confident enough in my ladder climbing technique.
I’m beginning to wonder if I even need a re-roof and it’s a repair would make the roof last a few more years.
Looks like no H-clips 24"OC rafters from the 70’s. We’d loosen the deck, slip the wide end of the clip on and drill a 1/2" hole on the other sheet next to a rafter and slide the clip to the center. PITA
Here is a picture of my roof from 3 years ago. It looks like the same places where shingles are missing have not changed.
This picture was taken from the lower right-hand corner near the front window.
Fat roofer sat on it while he ate lunch. Shoot whoever dumped tar on the bottom flange, unless he did the whole vent.
Your decking may be 3/8" 3 ply plywood, if it is it would be much better to remove it and install 1/2" osb or plywood.
This may be what they are talking about when they/he said dry rot, spongy 3/8" plywood.
I’m guessing a roll of felt crushed it. How about the shingle above completely blocking the waterway and tracking water sideways
Adding an h-clip to this wouldnt have helped it at all.
It wouldnt work at all.
This wood would laugh at your h-clip.
If you could slide 4 h-clips between the trusses,
It still wouldnt work.
These boards were not just weak,
Many of them had a small dip in them too.
With my strips of 26 gauge,
I also plain them back together.
The h-clip is a flimsy tiny piece of metal
That is designed only to give a spacer
And keep the boards together from the beginning. It doesnt give it any support.
Me and all my guys can walk this entire roof and we wouldnt break a board.
But any 250 pounder would probably break every spot you see i supported.
After i use these strips of 26g steel
I can now jump up and down on a spot
That was previously very weak and I also plained it perfectly back together.